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Anyone used Tung oil on car body?

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Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Body/Interior
Forum Description: Paint, glass, interior, rust, sheetmetal goes here.
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37293
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Topic: Anyone used Tung oil on car body?
Posted By: Wildfire
Subject: Anyone used Tung oil on car body?
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 1:58pm
I'm new to working on cars so bear with me...

I had an idea for inhibiting rust and coating paint and wondered if anyone has tried it or what your thoughts might be.  I am foremost a woodworker and know the wonderful properties of 100% Tung Oil (not the varnish stuff).  It creates a polymer bond when dried which waterproofs, beautifies, and on tools it inhibits rust.

My other inspiration for putting a polymerizing oil on a car comes from the cast iron cookware I use.  I have gotten a few pieces of rusty old cast iron, soaked them in cooking oil and left them in the oven at around 400 degrees for a few hours.  The rust magically disappears and the pot/skillet turns black.

Any thoughts on rubbing tung oil on your car's paint (I'm specifically talking about old cars with original paint - more of a rat rod than a restoration, but I'd also love to hear thoughts on modern paint)?  Also thoughts on stopping rust by putting the oil on slightly rusted areas?



Replies:
Posted By: 69BBB3904spAMX
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 2:02pm
The rodders use a product called Gibb's Oil....

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37 Ford Tudor 60 hp V8 flathead, all original, never restored
69BBB3904spAMX
70 Camaro 1st car
74 Hornet Hatch 6 cyl floor/auto
2007,2008,2009 PT Cruisers
Aluminum Deck Car Trailer


Posted By: gtoman_us
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 4:12pm
Gibbs oil is good stuff. Expensive something like $8 for 2 oz.

Tung oil. Never thought of that for rust. Not sure on existing paint?

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Moderator - Emeritus

Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles

1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon
1965 GTO
1931 Model A original survivor
"Flat Roofs are Cool"


Posted By: smoke
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 4:33pm
If you are trying to remove rust and leave remaining paint then you need to check in to Ultra One Rust Remover.  It's the best rust remover around, and can be used on a fully assembled car.  It doesn't hurt things like paint, rubber seals, trim components, or plastics. 

http://safestrustremover.com/

It's expensive (about $80-100 for 5 gallons of fluid) , and a somewhat complicated procedure, but, it works really well.  You may remember the Belvedere that was recently in Hot Rod after it was unearthed from its' time capsule in a rusty state of disrepair.  They used this product to remove the rust, and "restore" the car.   Check out the procedure. 

 It is odd setting up a car on a tarp or in a kiddy pool, then running garden hose with a recirculation pump, but, you can't argue with the results.

As far as sealing, and prevention of further rust, that's a completely different discussion, and your options are endless.  BUT, if you are going for that patina look, and trying to save a cool old paint job while eliminating existing rust, this stuff is the best place to start.

EDIT:  Check out the procedure, but, I wanted to state that you need to evaluate your existing paint before deciding to use this stuff.  If you have large areas of surface rust you need to realize that most of the area is going to be converted to bare metal when using this product.  If you treat smaller areas you will just get lighter colored spots that look faded.  Those can then be treated a number of ways to prevent further rust while keeping the desired look.


Posted By: Wildfire
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 4:45pm
I'm not really looking for other alternatives, I know there are a million out there. 

Cost is a factor for me. Though Tung oil is a little on the moderate-expense side, rather than cheap, as a woodworker I always have it around.  It would be great to have it do double duty.

Then there's the fact that it is 100% natural and 100% eco-friendly.  This may not be a top priority to everyone, but it gives me peace of mind that I am doing what I can.


Posted By: smoke
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 4:58pm
Never heard of anyone using Tung Oil... Boiled linseed oil, Kerosene, other random oils, Gibbs, Tons of wax, and other stuff, but, never Tung oil.

Try it on the bottom of the rocker, and observe, that will tell you what you want to know.  As far as it preventing further rust..... it won't.  It may do a little to slow the current stuff but it certainly isn't going to stop it.  That's why the trad rodders strip them and paint them,  that's true preservation.  I understand wanting to keep the old paint, but, the fact is the only way to stop the rust is to remove it, refinish, and repaint.  There is no magical way to freeze a rusty car in to looking the way it does forever.  Not without severely changing the appearance.


Posted By: tyrodtom
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 5:10pm
  Just because something is 100% natural,  doesn't mean it can't harmful.  Ricin is 100% natural too.
 
  Tung oil got plenty of warnings on the can,  can be fatal if swallowed,  use only with good ventilation,  and yada, yada.
 
  Also says not recommended for use over existing finishes,  other than penetrating oil finishes.
 
  I use tung oil too, on wood.  It might work well on other materials too,  but you're way off on the safety aspect.
 
 


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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.


Posted By: Wildfire
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 5:30pm
100% PURE Tung oil, made from the nut of the China wood tree is eco-friendly.  If you get the stuff in the store that is labeled "Tung oil" but does not say "100% natural or pure Tung oil," then it often has thinners and polyurethanes added (actually, most "tung oils" in the store have very little tung oil in them).

Here is a quote of the tung oil I buy: "Pure Tung Oil was and is one of the first truly "Green" finishes. It is all natural and contains zero VOC's (volotile organic compounds).  VOC’s contribute to health problems, smog and noxious odors.  Tung oil is recommended by http://www.wbdg.org/ccb/GREEN/RES/cgrwoodfinish.pdf - Green Reports (click here).   Tung oil is naturally polymerizing and cures by oxidation, not evaporation.  Tung oil is FDA approved for food contact. http://www.access.fda.gov/s/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?FR=175.300 - Click here to see the FDA Reference."


Posted By: tyrodtom
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 5:58pm
Do you really trust that tung oil from China is !00% tung oil ? 
  They got a long reputation for diluting many products with sometimes dangerous mixes.


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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.


Posted By: Wildfire
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 6:10pm
The name of the tree is called the "China Wood Tree."  That does not mean it is manufactured in china.  The company I buy from is a USA company that is reputable and has had their products tested for quality and purity.

If you really want to debate the Eco-friendliness or purity of my tung-oil lets do it privately. That way the thread won't be hijacked and we can continue to discuss the uses and pros and cons of Tung oil, which is what I am looking for.


Posted By: tyrodtom
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 6:29pm
 
  I won't dispute what you say about the pure tung oil until I check for myself.
 
  But it seems you're strongly advocating it's use.
 
  If you want people to try it on auto paint,  you should first try it yourself.


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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.


Posted By: Craven
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 6:31pm
Jeremy, I use a product called Kramer's Antique Improver on the paint and surface rust on my 1930 Essex and I'm satisfied with the results. Of course it's a secret recipe and I don't know what it has in it...maybe you know. Perhaps some tung-oil? Adds a little shine to the original paint while darkening the rust. I don't know if it's preserving anything, but the car is never in the weather.

Hal

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Hal Souers
Indiana
AMO Classified Editor

<font color=RED>In search of red Matador Barcelona sedan in EXCELLENT condition! [/COLOR]


Posted By: smoke
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 6:41pm
This may be a question better asked at a forum like Killbillet.com, or, any of those other rat rod sites.  I think Rebel Rodz has a decent forum too. I don't know many of them.  Most people on here remove the rust, and repaint the vehicle, so, this is kind of the wrong crowd.  I certainly haven't seen many people on this forum interested in keeping a worn appearance, this is more of a restoration sort of crowd.  A little advice: stay away from places like the HAMB, or any of the trad rod sites as they will string you up for your question.  One of the rat rod sites would be the best place, as they probably have the most experience trying to keep rusty things appearing rusty.LOL Wink

Another thing to consider is this; most people want to keep the old shabby looking paint on an old shabby looking vehicle.  It took years and years for it to look the way it looks, and that rust often takes decades to get the way it is.  No matter what course of action you take, at some point, to be done right, that rust is going to have to be cut out, and replaced.  Leaving it alone only means that you are going to need a larger patch panel when the time comes.  The size of the patch panel is going to be minimally affected by you trying to smear something on top of the already rust infected panel.  I enjoy the look of patina myself, but, I have seen many people ruin the look by trying to do a half hearted quick fix of the rust.  In the end, they aren't really doing anything to stop/prevent the rust, and end up ruining the patina they were interested in saving in the first place.  Look up clear coated patina paint jobs and you will see what I mean.  They all look like crap, and remind me of the clear coated foods you see at bakeries.   Most people would have just been better off waxing it and leaving it alone.


Posted By: Wildfire
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 6:50pm
smoke - thanks that helps a lot!

I've got a 64 Rambler Classic 660 4dr that has sat in a barn for 20+ years.  Is it really worth it (financially) to do a complete restoration of the paint (or the car as a whole)?  It does not seem that they are valued very high even when they are fixed up nice. 

I love the look of them fixed up, but I wouldn't want to sink a bunch of money into a car that may be worth half or even 4/5ths what is put into it.

I'm not big on the "rat rod" look.  Not trying to keep the rusty look, just trying to avoid having to disassemble the car and have an entirely new paint job.


Posted By: smoke
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 7:03pm
Originally posted by Wildfire Wildfire wrote:

It does not seem that they are valued very high even when they are fixed up nice. 

I love the look of them fixed up, but I wouldn't want to sink a bunch of money into a car that may be worth half or even 4/5ths what is put into it.
  Not trying to keep the rusty look, just trying to avoid having to disassemble the car and have an entirely new paint job.


I isolated the areas of your statement that I want to focus on.   You are correct, unfortunately they do not return the money invested when it comes time for resale. 

THAT SAID:  you have other options for repairing the existing rust, and you really don't need to do a full paint job to restore it.  If most of the paint is good (as it sounds from your posts) you should seriously consider repairing the problem areas, and then painting those areas while blending in to the good existing paint.  It takes some experience, BUT, if most of the car is already in solid condition and looks good, it wouldn't take that much work or money to just repair those spots.  You would be amazed at the matches you can get to stock original paints these days, especially if you remove a small piece with stock paint, and take it to a good paint shop.  They can match you the color needed, and mix you up a couple of quarts for fairly reasonable.  Then you can use a blending technique (I've recently been learning a ton about this from RickAMX on here) with some pretty darn good results.  I know for a fact that many of the cars that roll across the Barret Jackson auction block claim things like "88% original paint".  That is because they had the exact same problems you do, and fixed them in the manner I just described.  Now, if you aren't experienced in doing this sort of thing, that's fine.  What better car to learn on than one that, unfortunately, doesn't have a high resale value.  Use it as a guinea pig, and you can learn a ton.  In the end you'll have correctly repaired it, and learned something.  May not be something to consider at this time, but, research never hurts, and you may learn that it is something you can attempt in the future.

Sorry for my long posts.  Hope it helps.


Posted By: 73sprjeep
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 7:45pm
[QUOTE=Wildfire]The name of the tree is called the "China Wood Tree."  That does not mean it is manufactured in china.  The company I buy from is a USA company that is reputable and has had their products tested for quality and purity.

If you really want to debate the Eco-friendliness or purity of my tung-oil lets do it privately. That way the thread won't be hijacked and we can continue to discuss the uses and pros and cons of Tung oil, which is what I am looking for.
] I agree  that the "eco-friendly" debate should go to a PM, so I won't comment on that. Rust is to metal like cancer is to cells. You can slow it down, but rarely can you stop it. Once it gets started it spreads and is very hard to stop. You can blast or grind it off, but eventually it will come back. Your only options then will be welding in a patch panel or replacing the panel. Just my 2 cent"s.


Posted By: FuzzFace2
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 8:00pm
I would also like to know what if you want to do the repair the right way what will this oil do to what needs to be used like bondo, primers & paints?
Dave ----


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TSM = Technical Service Manual

75 Gremlin X v8 for sale
70 Javelin 360/auto drag car
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Posted By: smoke
Date Posted: Feb/26/2012 at 8:56pm
Originally posted by FuzzFace2 FuzzFace2 wrote:

what will this oil do to what needs to be used like bondo, primers & paints?
Dave ----


Good point, and a problem that is encountered by many who use oils, and such to preserve paints.  It's often forgot how well those oils can seep all the way through the paints, and in to the parent metals.  I have a semi gloss painted vehicle that I've used Kerosene, WD40, and other various oils on to keep looking right.  The few patch panels I've added to it have shown just how far those oils can get all on their own.  I don't know the characteristics of Tung Oil, but, it's something that should be thought of for future problems.  I've found with enough cleaning, and prep it isn't a problem, but, it does take more work than if I didn't use those oils, and I haven't used any bondo, or "good" paint yet.LOL


Posted By: Wildfire
Date Posted: Feb/27/2012 at 6:20am
Great thoughts guys.  Tung oil is known to penetrate, so if I do decide I want to fix er up all the way, I probably shouldn't use oils.  My first task will be pulling her out of the barn and cleaning off the inch of dirt that is on her to see what kind of shape she is in.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47021329@N04/6931373909/in/photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/47021329@N04/6931373909/in/photostream


Posted By: DavidSchnider
Date Posted: Feb/28/2012 at 11:12am
ever tried the http://www.hennekenautoservice.com - oil heating services bmw?



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