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74 jeep j20 6 inch lift

Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Suspension, Steering, Brakes & Wheels
Forum Description: What makes it stop, turn, and smooths the ride
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29933
Printed Date: Mar/28/2024 at 5:08am
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Topic: 74 jeep j20 6 inch lift
Posted By: 74j20
Subject: 74 jeep j20 6 inch lift
Date Posted: Jun/06/2011 at 8:44pm
I have a 74 jeep j20 and im wanting to put a 6 inch lift so i can clear 35's i was going to do a 6 inch suspension but then i have to have custom drive shafts made and they are about $400 each so my thought was a 3 inch suspension and a 3 inch body lift what are yalls thoughts

thanks


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Jeep J20 the only way to go



Replies:
Posted By: jeepjerry
Date Posted: Jun/06/2011 at 10:33pm
Not seeing why you would need custom driveshafts???...Confused
 
My brother has a 77 j-10 with a 6" lift and had no problems running the stock shafts. His is a shortbox too so your longer wheelbase will be fine on the rear driveshaft. The front shaft may be questionable since it will have a bit of an angle on it, but the cardan joint that they used should handle it unless hardcore off-roading is in your plans and you intend to droop the suspension a lot.


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-72 SST Javelin -under restoration. Alfano Performance 360.

-76 CJ-5,strong 360, 6" lift, 35"s.

-77 J-20, 4bbl 360/t-18, 33"s.

marlinsteve's son





Posted By: 74j20
Date Posted: Jun/06/2011 at 10:55pm
i was told the u joints would bind but i really dont know because this is the first truck i have lifted

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Jeep J20 the only way to go


Posted By: jeepjerry
Date Posted: Jun/06/2011 at 10:59pm
Ahh, i can tell you the rear will be fine. You'll just have to try the front out. You could unhook it from the pinion flange, measure 6-7" straight down and see how it does.
 
6" is what i'd like to do on mine some day. I may go with the spring over setup but still undecided.


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-72 SST Javelin -under restoration. Alfano Performance 360.

-76 CJ-5,strong 360, 6" lift, 35"s.

-77 J-20, 4bbl 360/t-18, 33"s.

marlinsteve's son





Posted By: 74j20
Date Posted: Jun/06/2011 at 11:18pm
i looked into the spring over conversion but it is really expensive because on top of all the stuff you have to buy that is originally on the bottom to put on top of the axle you have to buy a $300steering knuckle or thats what i would do


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Jeep J20 the only way to go


Posted By: ramblinfsj
Date Posted: Jun/07/2011 at 10:02am
I did my Wagoneer with a 3" lift and a 3" Body lift. The body lift was actually nice when I had to get under the truck and work on stuff (especially tranny or t-case stuff) because it gives you 3" of more space around everything. That was nice but installing the the body lift was a PITA. Most of the captured body nuts would brake loose and spins as you were trying to remove the body bolts. Trying to get in there and keep the nuts from spinning while trying to remove the rusty, corroded body bolts isn't fun. Then you'll need to be able to lift the body up. A wagon is a challenge the lift off the frame but a J-truck will be easier. The linkage for my transmission shifter had to be lengthened as well, I had to adjust my flag shifter in the floor, and the radiator shroud has to be dropped 3". It's alot of work to put a body lift on. Your's being a '74 J-truck will have less to modify especially if it's a manual tranny. I would just by the 6" lift and be done. The rear shaft will bolt up no problem. Other folks have been able to bolt there front shaft up. It's just one of those things you'll just have to try. Paying to have parts modified on a lifted truck is just part of the game. Good Luck.   

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1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220
1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401
1983 Jeep J-10
1979 Concord DL 2dr


Posted By: ChevelleSSLS6
Date Posted: Jun/07/2011 at 10:16pm
Why not run a 3 or 4 inch lift?  Remember you'll get some lift from the tires.  A lot of guys 'overbuild' rigs these days, and it's really amazing what kind of crap my XJ Cherokee can go through with a 3" lift, and 31" BFG all terrains.  My only issue with it is that it has an open diff out back after I found that one of the universal joint 'ears' on the dana 35 yoke broke off- so I traded it to a buddy and bought a 8.25.  Sadly it's a peg leg.

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1996 Jeep XJ 4.0 3 1/2" lift, mild mods
1974 AMC Javelin 360 4sp
2009 Kawasaki Vulcan 900


Posted By: 74j20
Date Posted: Jun/08/2011 at 12:11am
i thought about it long and hard because that was my original plan but i want 35's and a 4 inch lift wont fit them and i just cant bring my self to start carvin on my baby just to fit some tires but thank you for your input much appreciated


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Jeep J20 the only way to go


Posted By: ramblinfsj
Date Posted: Jun/08/2011 at 2:36pm
Yeah, don't cut the fenders. As long as you have some help, put a body lift on it. I read a thread on the IFSJA Forum that the trucks that old have a different and simpler body mount design than the later model FSJ's so it will probably be an easy job. You will like the body lift if you ever have to work on anything underneath the truck.

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1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220
1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401
1983 Jeep J-10
1979 Concord DL 2dr


Posted By: 74j20
Date Posted: Jun/08/2011 at 9:00pm
i appreciate all of the input from every body but i think im gonna go with the 6 inch suspension no body lift so that i get the wheel travel and i tried to join the ifsja but i never got the conformation email to complete my registration so i sent an email to them to let them know but i havent heard back yet


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Jeep J20 the only way to go


Posted By: tsanchez
Date Posted: Jun/08/2011 at 10:18pm
I did a spring over on my kids fsj, was cheap did all my own brackets and cost only time and a drop pitman. was around 6-7 inches and drove as good as it did stock.

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Posted By: 74j20
Date Posted: Jun/08/2011 at 10:41pm
what do ya mean ya did all of your own brackets and dont ya have to buy a knew steering knuckle and what did ya do for the rear springs because i dont wanna put blocks under it

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Jeep J20 the only way to go


Posted By: tsanchez
Date Posted: Jun/08/2011 at 11:47pm
Basically front got the axle put under the springs and I welded new spring pads to it, added a drop pitman arm and was good. rear I dont like blocks so I made brackets to lower the leaf springs. Much like this one http://www.bjsoffroad.com/cartgenie/prodList.asp?scat=131 - http://www.bjsoffroad.com/cartgenie/prodList.asp?scat=131
I did my own 28 yrs ago too with my wagoneer, seen here http://theamcforum.com/forum/my-old-wagoneer_topic27175.html - http://theamcforum.com/forum/my-old-wagoneer_topic27175.html

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Posted By: ramblinfsj
Date Posted: Jun/09/2011 at 10:11am
The different knuckles are to get the steering links above the axle so you aren't bashing them on rocks offroad. The stock setup works but the drag link is put at a steep angle not parallel to the tie rods. That causes bump steer. The drop pitman arm lessens the angle of the drag link. In some cases in stock form, the drag link hits the passenger leaf spring. It's best to move the steering above the axle to protect them and improve handling but it won't keep you from doing the Spring Over.

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1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220
1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401
1983 Jeep J-10
1979 Concord DL 2dr


Posted By: tsanchez
Date Posted: Jun/09/2011 at 11:13am
While true I have no issues when driving it, drives true and straight and hit bumps it does not wander a bit, at least not any more than the detroit makes it do when it locks and unlocks. LOL
 
Been thru a rock garden with 3' and larger boulders and never hit the front steering(spotter) cant say so much for the rockers though. Slipped off a 4' rock and it hit just below the door, kid was mad lol


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Posted By: 74j20
Date Posted: Jun/09/2011 at 1:27pm
do you know the pitch on the front axle

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Jeep J20 the only way to go


Posted By: ramblinfsj
Date Posted: Jun/09/2011 at 1:49pm
Do you mean the pinion angle? (The angle the pinion is pointed upward toward the t-case)

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1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220
1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401
1983 Jeep J-10
1979 Concord DL 2dr


Posted By: tsanchez
Date Posted: Jun/09/2011 at 2:10pm
The front axle should be setup with around 3 degrees of pos caster for best handling, driveshaft angle will be whatever it is, I have on some baby jeeps cut the knuckles off and rewelded them to point the pinion up relieving the ujoint angle. I did not do it on my kids FSJ and has been good so far.

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Posted By: Wrambler
Date Posted: Jun/09/2011 at 2:23pm
Don't forget to check the driveshafts at full extension.
It can be a real PIA when one separates from jumping something out in the middle of nowhere.

Seen that happen, no fun at all.


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Wrambler
69 AMC Rambler
4.0L, 5 speed
2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
2019 Chrysler 300


Posted By: 74j20
Date Posted: Jun/09/2011 at 6:38pm
good point but i dont plan on jumpin my truck but i will defiantly check that out and do i have to extend t he brake lines

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Jeep J20 the only way to go


Posted By: 74j20
Date Posted: Jun/10/2011 at 11:11pm
ok i looked into the soa kit from bjs off road has anyone tried to put this on a 74 0r 75 j series or wagoner they say it wont fit because in 74 and 75 they used different brackets does anyone know how hard it is to modify this to fit im pretty sure this is what im gonna do cause you cant beat the price i was just tryin to get a heads up on hard its going to be
  

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Jeep J20 the only way to go


Posted By: tsanchez
Date Posted: Jun/10/2011 at 11:58pm
I did the same thng on my old wagoneer, the frames are different because they have the spring eyes on a big cast piece i think, I used another shackle to swing it lower and then welded it to frame but I think a beter way would be to fab a new bracket to mount lower and atach to original eye.

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http://s192.photobucket.com/user/antonsan/media/jav1_zps87a70dce.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: 74j20
Date Posted: Jun/11/2011 at 11:42pm
i think im going to go ahead and order the setup from bjs and make it work

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Jeep J20 the only way to go



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