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Average cost to replace a rocker panel??

Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Body/Interior
Forum Description: Paint, glass, interior, rust, sheetmetal goes here.
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28473
Printed Date: Mar/28/2024 at 12:36pm
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Topic: Average cost to replace a rocker panel??
Posted By: 348AMX
Subject: Average cost to replace a rocker panel??
Date Posted: Apr/13/2011 at 1:05pm
After restoring the dash and center console of my 68 AMX 3 years ago, I decided to tackle the rest of the interior last summer and removed the seats, Carpet the factory black matting off the floor boards, the headliner all the trim around the windshield and rear window, rear sail panels, etc etc. I left the dash and steering wheel.

I discovered that the rear floor boards had been repaired once before and they look great. The front floor boards have a few holes one on the drivers side about 2" in diameter and the passenger has a hole along the seam where it welds to the rocker panel, other than that the floor boards are good.

The major prior repair I discovered was done to the drivers side rocker panel. An aprox 18" section had been cut out due to rust I assume and a piece of thick gauge sheet metal formed over and riveted to the rocker.


After I saw that I felt it was unacceptable and could compromise the strength of the unibody and started looking for a replacement. Luckily I found a VERY nice rust free factory drivers side complete rocker panel to replace the entire panel.

    So the plan is to buy a driver and passnger repro floor board and cut sections out of that and replace the rusted sections of the factory floor boards. It does not look necessary to replace the entire floor boards on either side since there is 85% shiny non rusted surface there.

   For the drivers side rocker panel I figure to remove the entire original and weld in the replacement. How much would a body shop charge on average to do these repairs????   There is a body shop right at the end of my street so it would be VERY convenient to have it done and I will get an est from them...but I would like to get some averages from you guys that have done it what would be a fair price for this work. Thanks!
John



Replies:
Posted By: 72AMX
Date Posted: Apr/13/2011 at 1:28pm
Well, you can buy replacement rocker panels; both inner and outer, so it's just a matter of getting a shop quote to see what they would charge you to cut out the old and weld in the new. 


Posted By: brownspirit
Date Posted: Apr/13/2011 at 1:29pm
Could you get some pics, you will probably have trouble getting a quote from a body shop, as rust is deceiving and unpredictable. There is a guy in conn. that has an amx and runs a restoration shop specializing in metal repairs and fabrication, I will try to dig up his email if you like.

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69' BBB AMX 390/4-speed

69' s/crambler project

69’ International F210d Cummins/5+4


Posted By: 348AMX
Date Posted: Apr/15/2011 at 10:55pm
I'll post up some pics tomorrow. I won't need repro rocker parts since the Rocker Panel I got off ebay is off a yellow 69' california car and is 100% rust free...and it is the entire inner/outer structure front to back so this is basically a factory original rust free used replcement that should be able to be welded in after my entire original damaged rocker is removed as one piece itself. Assuming there isnt any other rust I don't see why it would take someone very long to do it.
Ideally I'd like to pay someone to do it in my garage, lots of room..I doubt the guy in CT is going to be willing to do that. The body shop down the street might. I'd be removing the front fender and door myself; the front fender needs a dent fixed anyway.

I have C stripes on my car and they line up perfect from front fender to door and rear of door to rear 1/4 so the rocker seems to be sound enough to keep the car straight but who knows what happens when driving around how much flexing could be going on.


Posted By: bigbad69
Date Posted: Apr/16/2011 at 8:23am
You're probably better off getting the work done in a shop rather than your garage. The shop will have all the proper equipment to do the job. You're right about the floors and rockers being structural and when you remove them to replace, the whole body structure is weakened. Without the proper equipment to ensure the gar is straight, it's not difficult to weld in the new parts wrong.

Certainly a good body man could do it in your garage with excellent results, but why risk it? Get it done where the guy is most comfortable and has all the tools right where he needs them.

As for price, get a few quotes. That should tell you what it will cost. Personally, I would stay away from mass production collision shops. They tend to be set up for crash repairs done quick with decent results. Major rust repair is generally not their forte. Talk to some shops honestly about what you want done and what your expectations are. A good shop will want to go over the car thoroughly before giving you a price. If you get a shop quickly telling you they can do it for $X without inspecting the car, they will likely exceed the estimate, or they will cut corners to keep to the estimate.


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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10


Posted By: scott
Date Posted: Apr/16/2011 at 1:36pm
Figure $5000.00 & up, if you can even find someone that will touch it.


Posted By: target
Date Posted: Apr/16/2011 at 5:36pm
I think we need more information and a photo. The rocker is made up of an inner, center, and outer rocker. If the damage is just to one section regardless of it being 18 inches long if the rest is sound I would not replace it all, only the damage. I think it would be stronger than replacing all of it, and actually be a better repair for less money.


Posted By: stonedblue
Date Posted: Apr/16/2011 at 6:53pm
This is a pic of the partial inner rocker replacrment I did on my Javelin. I also replaced the P/S floor pan. I'm not a body tech and did this in my 2 car garage. I had 72 hours from teardown to primer. I would guess a well equipt shop & tech could do it in a bit less time. As stated by target, I'd only replace the damaged area, not the whole length. Good luck, sorry I can't give you more price info..


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I can build an engine, but, I can't drain oil without a mess.'04Ram,'99Plym.Van,"96Exploder,'79Dodge pickup, '71Jav. '68Jav, and '90 Gold Rush trailer


Posted By: 348AMX
Date Posted: Apr/16/2011 at 9:58pm
Originally posted by stonedblue stonedblue wrote:

This is a pic of the partial inner rocker replacrment I did on my Javelin. I also replaced the P/S floor pan. I'm not a body tech and did this in my 2 car garage. I had 72 hours from teardown to primer. I would guess a well equipt shop & tech could do it in a bit less time. As stated by target, I'd only replace the damaged area, not the whole length. Good luck, sorry I can't give you more price info..


Your repair looks GREAT! That is the length of the section that a previous owner had replaced inside the car/floorboard side, but all they did was bend a piece of sheetmetal in the shape of the cut out section and riveted it in place and it is wavy looking with dips and bumps. Very shoddy repair. From the hump where the seat is the rest of the rocker looks good, but that is on the OUTSIDE. I can reach my hand partially into the vent hole and feel that a good section of the "center" structure of the rocker assembly is rotted away/gone. I can feel where it picks back up again but it feels rusty. The outer isnt rotted. Didnt have a chance to take pics today. From the seat back it is solid. The passenger side rocker is very solid.

My floor boards are not as rusted as those in that pic.

If it were going to cost $5000. YIKES! I'll just take a welding class at UTI and fix it myself ha ha ha.


Posted By: stonedblue
Date Posted: Apr/16/2011 at 10:36pm
The center piece has large holes stamped in it. Are you sure you aren't feeling one of those holes? May be no way to know till the cutting starts.Don't know how handy you are, but, I never had a welding or autobody class. The mig I used is a harbor frieght $99.00 unit. I learned the hard way to use quality replacement parts from an AMC vendor. If you decide to give it a go on your own, there are a few good threads here to help, and I'll help anyway I can. I have about $500.00 in this job, floor pan, inner rocker, new acc carpet, new nonstock headliner cloth, primer/paint/undercoat, and cut/weld supplies.

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I can build an engine, but, I can't drain oil without a mess.'04Ram,'99Plym.Van,"96Exploder,'79Dodge pickup, '71Jav. '68Jav, and '90 Gold Rush trailer


Posted By: Wrambler
Date Posted: Apr/19/2011 at 11:29am
It could be very pricey to get the whole thing replaced.
The shop will probably X-brace the door opening and at least one Xbrace at about rear door edge to the floor and roof panels to keep it all straight.
  Then all the work of replacing the rocker assembly. I'd open that patch up and see what is really going on in there.
   While  nice new entire rocker assembly would be sweat, it may not be the best way to fix what you are describing.


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Wrambler
69 AMC Rambler
4.0L, 5 speed
2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
2019 Chrysler 300


Posted By: KermitDRambler
Date Posted: Apr/19/2011 at 12:29pm
If you have the tools, patience, and can weld, this is something that can be done at home. Besides the bracing Wrambler mentioned, you also need to support the front frame sills so they don't move once you cut out the rocker panel. You can do this with jack stands and shims. Pulling the engine and trans will also help take stress off of the frame sills. The important thing to do is to get the car properly supported and braced before you cut anything out. Once you think you have it right, you need to make sure that the doors, windows, and trunk lid line up properly and everything opens and closes easily. This means that you may have to rebuild hinges and make other repairs before you start cutting.
 
Also, the TSM will have a frame dimension chart that will give you the measurements you need to make sure everything is lined up. You'll need to have a level and true floor (or framework) to use them.
 
I replaced sections of the outer and middle rockers on my 68 American several years ago. My inners were good but you can at least see what I did (the structure is basically the same so it doesn't really matter that it's a 4 door American): http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/drivers_quarter_panel04.shtml - http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/drivers_quarter_panel04.shtml .
 
Once thing I've since learned is that you need to weld in reinforcement plates at your joints to make them stronger.
 
Matt


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1967 American wagon

http://www.mattsoldcars.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.mattsoldcars.com


Posted By: Wrambler
Date Posted: Apr/19/2011 at 12:39pm
Yeah, I believe they are called fish plates?
Look something like this



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Wrambler
69 AMC Rambler
4.0L, 5 speed
2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
2019 Chrysler 300


Posted By: 348AMX
Date Posted: Apr/19/2011 at 9:47pm
Looks like a LOT of fabrication is needed if you arent useing a factory replacement part, so I guess I am lucky that I have a total assembly from a rust free california car.

I am going to take a wire brush on a drill to the floor pan and inner rocker to remove the coating on it so the patch will show up better in pictures that I'll post. It blends in too well now to see it clearly...

I really want to to get this repaired so I can start on the carpet restoration and headliner. Hopefully I can get this done and the car possibly repainted in Frost white to bring to Sturbridge at the end of the summer.

I am very suprised that no one has responded with a cost that they incured to have a place install a new rocker. Seems like most just patch it themselves.


Posted By: hassyfoto
Date Posted: Apr/20/2011 at 7:21am
Originally posted by 348AMX 348AMX wrote:

I am very suprised that no one has responded with a cost that they incured to have a place install a new rocker. Seems like most just patch it themselves.
If a professional performs the repairs, it is typically  Time, Labor & Materials. Every job is different & that is because were there is one rusted panel, there is another rusted panel. Removing one panel exposes more rust or damages. This is one of the reasons many body shops refuse to work on rusted cars. You quote a price for the obvious and then the hidden stuff shows up, you ask for more money to complete the additonal repairs and the customer gets mad that it will cost more than planned. 
I work on many rusted cars installed metal parts (floors, frame rails, patch panels, etc...) and every job ends up costing different. I keep track of my time and even video tape the repair process. Customers are amazed about the amount of time it takes to complete the rust repairs.
If you want detailed info on the rocker replacement, hit the search botton on this forum, & there are several threads on the subject.
You can also view the repairs I completed on rocker replacement on my Javelin at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hassyfoto/4215388597/in/photostream/ - http://www.flickr.com/photos/hassyfoto/4215388597/in/photostream/


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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment



Posted By: nali
Date Posted: Apr/20/2011 at 10:38am
Here is an example why it s difficult to have a quote ....
I needed to fix some rust on the left rear fender . If I had a nice part , I could spend at max 3 hours to cut / weld / grind and even spray primer . And I m slow ....





But , I found more rust ..... Here I am for now ...



Still easy to have a quote ? :P


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No more car :)
Maybe a 1965 Ambassador Coupé someday .. If I can find a cheap one.


Posted By: 348AMX
Date Posted: Apr/20/2011 at 11:56am
I was not looking for a quote for my particular car per say, and after seeing the 3 very well documented repairs posted so far I can certainly understand better why it is just about impossible to know the final cost until the work is actually started.
So far no one has posted that actually
brought their car to a body/restoration shop and given any costs for the work that was done. This makes me believe that everyone is fixing these panels themselves.

I am very impressed with the level of detail that people that have posted are accomplishing on these repairs. Its encouraging.


Posted By: hassyfoto
Date Posted: Apr/21/2011 at 10:30am
Originally posted by 348AMX 348AMX wrote:

So far no one has posted that actually
brought their car to a body/restoration shop and given any costs for the work that was done. This makes me believe that everyone is fixing these panels themselves.
I doubt anyone will post what they paid a professional for the replacement of inner & outer rocker. But to give an example, the inner & outer rocker panel replacements, front floor pan replacement, some misc cross bracing on the underside of the front floor pans and some repairs of the firewall & both front hinge posts on a 66 Stang amounted to 62 hours of work. Just based on labor dollar per hour to have all this work performed at a professional level;
62 hrs  x  $52/hr    = $3,224.00
That price does not include the price of the parts or any refinish time.


-------------
Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment



Posted By: dsm6678
Date Posted: Feb/11/2013 at 8:50pm
Originally posted by 348AMX 348AMX wrote:

I was not looking for a quote for my particular car per say, and after seeing the 3 very well documented repairs posted so far I can certainly understand better why it is just about impossible to know the final cost until the work is actually started.
So far no one has posted that actually
brought their car to a body/restoration shop and given any costs for the work that was done. This makes me believe that everyone is fixing these panels themselves.

I am very impressed with the level of detail that people that have posted are accomplishing on these repairs. Its encouraging.
                                                                                                                                                                       I have some information on an estimate "cap" from a restoration shop for what I needed done on my car. I am not going to mention the place but they are advertised in Hemming motor news. This is what I needed done,
 
1. Left front frame rail replaced (I Supplied a used part ready for install)
2. Right front fram rail repaired ( Not too much damage) 
3. Front floor pans replaced (I supplied the pans from ADP)
4. Inner rocker panels replaced/ Center rockers repaired  (Supplied inner rockers from ADP)
5. Radiator support replaced (Supplied R. support from ADP)
 
 
READY FOR THIS,,,,
$18,000
 
 
Needless to say I had the car towed back to my garage to start on the rocker panel repairs. Thanks to amc forum member "Hassyfoto" we can all learn from his information and pictures on how to do this in your garage. Gives me hope anyway.



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