Stainless steel brake lines
Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Suspension, Steering, Brakes & Wheels
Forum Description: What makes it stop, turn, and smooths the ride
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=102116
Printed Date: Apr/24/2024 at 1:24am
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Topic: Stainless steel brake lines
Posted By: 72SST401
Subject: Stainless steel brake lines
Date Posted: Sep/25/2019 at 9:41am
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Looking for opinions on SS brake lines vs OEM style, same on fuel lines. Don't care to spend the extra money if it's not worth it! Thanks, Gary
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Replies:
Posted By: Heavy 488
Date Posted: Sep/25/2019 at 9:56am
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On a part time driven vehicle that goes into winter hibernation, I wouldn't bother. |
Posted By: Rogue343
Date Posted: Sep/25/2019 at 10:17am
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Gary, depends on what your doing with the car. If it's just a driver, probably not. If it's a concours show car then I would say yes. Put SS lines on my Rogue when I restored it. Was fortunate, though. Sent all my brake and fuel lines to Fine Lines to have them made since they did not have them for my car in their catalog. They contacted me and offered to make all the lines for the cost of the material only if they could keep my original lines for patterns so I got off pretty cheap compared to having to pay for everything. I've seen some posts where people have had issues with the SS lines leaking at the fittings, but I used a little liquid teflon at all the fittings, as suggested by Fine Lines, and never had an issue with any leaks. ------------- 1967 Rambler Rogue 'X' code 343 4 speed 1966 Rambler American 440 4 door Factory 290 (now 360) 4 speed VIN 100003 |
Posted By: akimmet
Date Posted: Sep/25/2019 at 10:34am
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Stainless is usually harder than what the fitting is made of, and the tube can sometimes ruin tube seat cones. Since stainless tubing generally requires more torque to completely seal, There is also a greater likelihood of the tube nut seizing to the fitting. Stainless tube by far is far more difficult to bend and flare, however this wont be a big deal if you have a hydraulic flaring tool or go the pre-made route. While Stainless tubing isn't necessarily as bad as I'm describing it, these issues are something to be aware of. It is more along the lines of I always hear folks discussing the benefits, without pointing out some of the difficulties involved.
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Posted By: Trader
Date Posted: Sep/25/2019 at 10:59am
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I'd have to say it's worth it. If making my own it would be out of copper-nickel. Lasts as long as SS and very easy to work with, bend and double flare. Fuel line especially now with ethanol in the fuel tend to corrode from inside out and also introduce corrosion products into the fuel system, causing other problems. That's if the car sits for more then a 4 to 6 weeks, the time it takes for gasoline and ethanol/water to start to separate. My opinion, I've always hated working on rusted old steel lines! |
Posted By: green70AMX
Date Posted: Sep/25/2019 at 12:06pm
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I went with the steel lines and sprayed them with KBS clear coat to keep them from rusting like the original ones. ------------- green70AMX |
Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Sep/25/2019 at 12:22pm
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Brake lines typically rust from the INSIDE out due to lack of maintenance. To this day the brake engineers and manufacturers still recommend an every two year flush and new fluid. Stainless still is often harder to seal - takes more torque at the fitting, can mess with the softer seats. I've had struggles with them and I've done brakes for over 40 years - I won't use stainless any more. I use copper/nickel - with the one and only drawback being the color isn't right if you want a concourse look - then you could spray it. But it's a dream to work with. I say stainless is only for those who don't like to do maintenance, drive the car in Iowa on slimy salted roads, that sort of thing. Steel lines will last for 40 years with care. I have had lines last longer - flush the system, new fluid every couple of years - or go with the modern fluid that doesn't have such an affinity for moisture. Sitting is HARD on cars, especially brake systems. You lose the residual pressure in the drum brake hydraulics and differences in atmospheric pressure, temperature changes and so on and you get moisture entering at the ends -the cylinders. I had a heck of a time getting the stainless lines to fit my 70 and to seal - and I swore - never again. My 73 has ALL new lines I made with copper/nickel. My Eagle - some are original, some are new. When I flush fluid through the fluid comes out clean, no traces of rust. -------------  http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com |
Posted By: BrotherBamc
Date Posted: Sep/25/2019 at 12:30pm
Are you referring to stainless steel braided lines..?? I am going through this right now with my front brakes. Long story.. Short version.. This is what I came up with from Speedway.. Since my calipers are Kelsey Hayes, I needed the proper fitting to stick a -3 AN line on and since I have limited space because of drop plates on my spindles, I had to use one with a 90* end. Caliper fittings... https://www.speedwaymotors.com/7-16-Inch-20-3-AN-Male-Brake-Adapter-Connector-Fitting,32495.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/7-16-Inch-20-3-AN-Male-Brake-Adapter-Connector-Fitting,32495.html Fittings for hard lines... https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Steel-Straight-3-8-24-IFF-to-3-AN-Male-Adapter-Fitting,32433.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Steel-Straight-3-8-24-IFF-to-3-AN-Male-Adapter-Fitting,32433.html Clips for above fittings. Originals might fit but I am not sure, so I ordered a set of 4. Cheap insurance if the originals don't fit or work. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-40260-Brake-Fitting-Clips-Set-of-4,41373.html?OriginalQuery=10640260" rel="nofollow - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-40260-Brake-Fitting-Clips-Set-of-4,41373.html?OriginalQuery=10640260 Braided stainless steel brake line from Earls... https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Earls-63011716ERL-16-In-3-AN-Fem-Straight-90-Degree-Speed-Flex-Line,144810.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Earls-63011716ERL-16-In-3-AN-Fem-Straight-90-Degree-Speed-Flex-Line,144810.html Total cost was 101.00 and that included shipping and my local state taxes. I'll let you know how it works out next week. ------------- 77 CJ5 360 73 Gremlin 401 4 speed 2006 Dodge Magnum R/T AWD http://www.lxforums.com/board/garage.php?do=user_garage_view&id=19745" rel="nofollow - My Garage |
72SST401 wrote:Posted By: purple72Gremlin
Date Posted: Sep/25/2019 at 12:54pm
| I wouldnt bother with stainless....but thats me |
Posted By: Heavy 488
Date Posted: Sep/25/2019 at 1:03pm
I used stainless on an an 8 year DD. The only place the originals were still shiny as new was where the manufacturers part number tag was attached. The rest was solid crust. 
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Posted By: Chisam
Date Posted: Sep/26/2019 at 1:03am
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I used stainless for the brake and fuel lines for my 69 Ambassador and when completed had no leaks or problems at all. I got rolls of tubing from Fine lines, their tubing is annealed to make it easier to bend and flare. Their site has bends like normal OEM steel and flares like OEM steel. They list a roll of 3/16" S.S. 25 ft for 19.99. I did not have to over tighten any fittings and no leaks from first time bleeding the brakes. Bending and flaring their tubing was no problem. Charlie ------------- 1968 AMX 390 4SP |
Posted By: 72SST401
Date Posted: Sep/26/2019 at 4:18pm
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To all, thanks for the great info, great benefit of this site. I should have specified that my car is being restored as a fun driver, not trying nor do I want a perfect/concours vehicle. Rouge343, thanks for the reference to Fine Lines. |
Posted By: Steve_P
Date Posted: Sep/27/2019 at 6:58am
| Don't use stainless. They are a PITA to get to seal as said and it's not worth the hassle. You're looking for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist: if you change the brake fluid every 5 yrs, steel lines will last 100+ yrs on a nice weather driver. |
Posted By: akimmet
Date Posted: Sep/28/2019 at 10:04am
If this is your objective, look into nickle-copper tubing instead. All of the benefits of stainless, plus it is far easier to flare and bend. The only down side is the color, if that bothers you in any way.
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Posted By: 6PakBee
Date Posted: Sep/28/2019 at 10:05am
Stainless steel inverted flares are usually difficult to seal. I've resorted to using a steel female fitting and with anti-seize on the fitting threads and between the nut and the tube, tighten the bejesus out of them to reform the flare BEFORE trying to install them. A little clean up from the anti-seize and you're good to go. ------------- Roger Gazur 1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
Posted By: vinny
Date Posted: Sep/28/2019 at 11:46am
| I don't like dealing with rusted brake lines either so that is why I haven't touched them yet. They've been good for 55 years so far and I did buy a coil of new regular type line a year or two back, so maybe next year for the renewal. |
Posted By: 65fstback
Date Posted: Jan/25/2020 at 7:53pm
| How did you make out with the brake hoses and fittings from speedway I am having the same problem with drop plates on 70 AMX and disc brake conversion kit from American parts depot Thanks Jim |
Posted By: Dave Z
Date Posted: Jan/26/2020 at 7:14am
Well I'll add my two cents. I've used all the options, they've all got good and bad points. Here in New England there's a lot of salt on the roads for year round drivers to contend with, cars taken off the road for the winter still deal with cosmetic rust unless in heated storage. Stainless steel is hard to work with for sure. I personally have a hard time flaring ss with any tool as the dies seem to have a hard time gripping the tube and it can slide back when starting the flare. Sealing the flairs is also a challenge. Stainless has a tendency to gall. This is where the anti-seeze or teflon comes in. 6Pak Bee's advice is worth noting. But once it's in and sealed it will last and look good forever. CopperNickle will turn green after a while. Coated steel needs the coating repaired wherever a tool is used on it as well as being scraped during installation. I use liquid electrical tape. What are others using? Plain steel works if you paint it but needs to be touched up like the coated line. Or just let it get patina. Dave Z |
Posted By: JGRANTAMX
Date Posted: Jan/26/2020 at 7:43am
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Pre-bent stainless lines come with steel fittings I don't understand the logic there, the answer I received about that is the fittings new are color coded so they use steel for that OE look, it seems to me that's BS unless stainless can't be colored similar to steel? I bought replacement stainless lines also bought stainless fittings they will be changed when the brakes are assembled. There is a flare seat dressing tool that cleans up the lines I bought one to make sure I don't have leaks, stainless is best way to go then no rust inside the lines or pain in the a@# replacing brake fluid. J |
Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Jan/27/2020 at 11:54pm
There's no way to avoid bleeding brakes. Water in DOT fluid eats wheel cylinders and caliper innards, and that's more of a problem than lines, which if you bleed even every couple years, will last 25 to 50. Annually, probably "forever" (longer than me :-) Work out a good system for bleeding and it's easy and fast. I use a cup with dip tube in it, stock bleeders, press the pedal with my hand slow release slow. Takes me 45 minutes to do all four wheels. I run at least a pint through total, front and rear. Fluid's cheapest thing of all. I do mine in the spring, as part of my get-ready-for-heavy-driving-season prep. A good time to look around and head off problems. ------------- 1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
Posted By: JGRANTAMX
Date Posted: Jan/28/2020 at 4:26am
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I am also going with silicone brake fluid, I have read that braking might be slightly less with silicone fluid although for street use I doubt it will make much difference. J
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Posted By: Steve_P
Date Posted: Jan/28/2020 at 7:16am
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I can't get the same hard pedal feel with the silicone fluid as with regular fluid- it traps air. For a nice weather driver or show car, it's acceptable, and it makes sense on a show car. But, you should occasionally change brake fluid in a car that's driven. The fluid in the caliper and wheel cylinder stays there and gets cooked from use; it doesn't circulate. |
Posted By: vinny
Date Posted: Jan/28/2020 at 9:19am
| My lines are original. The fluid got changed when I honed the wheel cylinders and changed the seals. It got changed again when the master cylinder had to be changed and then again when the wheel cylinders were finally worn out and had to be replaced, front and rear at different times. Oh, and let's not forget the times for the front brake upgrade to ten inch and again when rear diff got changed. I guess that makes at least ten fluid changes over its 55+ year life, so at least once every five or six years, not bad. |
Posted By: rsrguy3
Date Posted: Feb/12/2020 at 9:06pm
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So is what the previous poster said about the fine lines tubes true? As far as ease of install for the SS because of annealing? ------------- javguy |
Posted By: Chisam
Date Posted: Feb/13/2020 at 1:57am
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Go to Fine Lines site and read the description of their stainless tubing. It is annealed. Now they list 25' for 29.95. Tubing is 304 grade stainless but made softer. They list benefits- bends like normal oem steel, flares like oem steel. I have used it with no problems, I use the EASTWOOD type flaring tool, deburring tool and lapping tool. Regular 45 degree fittings can be used as it flares like regular steel. I have not had to over tighten fittings or put sealant on the threads as the flare is what seals not the thread as some have suggested. If it is flared right , and the rest ok then it should. My last project, all brake lines, fuel lines were made, no leaks first time bleeding brakes. All components were new. ------------- 1968 AMX 390 4SP |
Posted By: 70,71,72 AMXS
Date Posted: Feb/14/2020 at 12:11pm
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I've put SS lines and silicone fluid in 6 different cars, with no issues with either component. Now, Reman. '69 AMX brake calipers, that's another story.. ------------- Bruce in NW Ohio |
Posted By: rsrguy3
Date Posted: Feb/22/2020 at 6:49pm
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Awesome! ------------- javguy |