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Pressure plate and other questions

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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2018 at 1:34am
slight flat spots are not fatal. if they're even, smooth, symmetrical and don't involve peened-over metal it might be fine. it's 50 years old. wear is inevitable. jagginess, asymmetry, gouges, etc, that's a problem. 

the real difficulty I find is the in-between stuff; new is obvious, rotten is obvious, in between is a judgement call.

1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T96
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kenoshakicker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kenoshakicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2018 at 8:17am
I am going to get a new fork regardless of how it is worn. Kennedy and APD both sell them. Whose is better or are they made by the same manufacturer? Kennedy's is more money but I've never had a problem with them. I dropped the trans off at the rebuilder on Fri. He said he should be calling me with what is needed for the rebuild tomorrow. I was going to send the trans out of state but a friend told me about this guy who has be doing trans for 50 years and he only about 35 miles from me. He has some AMC T10 parts on his shelves. Hopefully he will have what is needed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kenoshakicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2018 at 11:07am
Here are some photos of the clutch fork.  The top nub is the one with the gouge in it.  The bottom one looks like it was filed on the very top.   When put on the to bearing it seems to have a good fit.  The only thing I see is that the back of the t.o. bearing might come in contact with fork as it is being pushed forward.  But I might not have it exactly centered.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2018 at 1:34pm
I've not owned a Manual Trans AMX or other AMC, but have seen questions over the years.
There is more than 1 Length of Clutch Arm Pivot that was used thru the years...
There's even mention of Hurst modifying Pivot Length for the Clutch used in the S/S AMX cars.
Correct Clutch Arm Pivot Height is another variable to getting it all set up right is my point
along with Bell Housing, Clutch Fork, T/O Brg, Trans Input, Pressure Plate, & Disc...
Incorrect height Clutch Throwout Lever Pivot has been the problem more than once...
The ( 3 ) Lengths are, from early to late:
1967-69 used   5/8"  part # 320 5362
1970-71 used   3/4"  part # 448 7604
1972-up used 1-1/16" part # 321 3859


 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2018 at 4:05pm
There is more going on  here with the fork.
Picture 1 and 3 of the last post show the ends of the fork, not the fingers, being worn.
Picture 3 also shows the throw out bearing riding on the fork and not just the "fingers".
Wrong bearing is likely, clutch/fork not adjusted correctly??? Or just miss-match and wrong parts.
The fork can be salvaged, finger replaced. But you have to determine if you have the correct parts. The throw out bearing should just be contacting the fingers of the fork and nothing else for movement.
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2018 at 10:42pm
there are at least three different forks, straight and offset one way or the other. you can eyeball it, the pushrod, pivot and trans input shaft should all be int he same plane. likely it's the right fork, but you never know...

it may be that bad motor mounts and/or bad Z-bar allowed the relative positions to shift so that the clutch pedal is applying pressure to the fork at a bad angle. either now, or in the past.

1961 roadster american, 195.6 OHV, T5
1968 american, 199ci, T96
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kenoshakicker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kenoshakicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/13/2018 at 9:08am
I have looked in the TSM for a picture of the linkage rods on the side of the T10 and can not located one.  The only rod on mine that has any adjustment is the short one, reverse.  Should any of the forward gear rods be adjustable?  I read the text on adjusting the shifter and do not quite understand what they are saying.  Thanks.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/14/2018 at 9:12am
No adjustments on the forward rods. IIRC, the procedure is: with the transmission in neutral, put a pin thru the small lower hole on the shifter mechanism- it should go thru the matching holes in the shifter arms. Use a pin or drill bit just smaller than the hole- the TSM probably tells you the size to use. If it doesn't go thru, loosen and adjust the arms on the transmission until everything lines up on the mechanism.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kenoshakicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/14/2018 at 4:22pm
Originally posted by Steve_P Steve_P wrote:

No adjustments on the forward rods. IIRC, the procedure is: with the transmission in neutral, put a pin thru the small lower hole on the shifter mechanism- it should go thru the matching holes in the shifter arms. Use a pin or drill bit just smaller than the hole- the TSM probably tells you the size to use. If it doesn't go thru, loosen and adjust the arms on the transmission until everything lines up on the mechanism.

Thanks.  After I made the last post, I reread the TSM while looking at the transmission.  I now understand.  Thanks again.
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