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Pressure Differential Valve rebuild

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CoffinMaster View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CoffinMaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Pressure Differential Valve rebuild
    Posted: Jan/18/2019 at 5:36pm
So, after a lot of work and no results I decided to tear down every part of my brakes and rebuild and slowly make sure everything works so that it will all work together. I spent quite a while getting my Pressure differential valve off, the line from the front to back was so stuck I had to cut it and will be getting a new line, however when I took apart my valve it was basically stuck. I got the bolts and springs out of each end and then got one of the spring caps off, however the other wouldn't come off. I got in there with some needle nose and found that the spring cap had amazingly shattered into about 5 pieces. After that was out, I had to get a thinner bolt and hammer the pistons out since they were so stuck in, and not just light tapping. I found that one of the pistons had a greenish blue buildup on the piston, and a lot so I cleaned it up, and now I plan to rebuild it but I'm unsure of how to get a new set of spring caps. I've seen the rebuild kit from Muscle Car Research, and it's got all the parts I need except the spring caps, and I was wondering if there was a universal cap I could get or somewhere to find the specific size cap for the valve. Thanks.

Edit: I'll also need the top plastic nut where the the electrical connection goes, the threads on mine busted off when I was getting it off, any idea where to find that would be appreciated.


Edited by CoffinMaster - Jan/18/2019 at 6:26pm
1973 AMC Javelin AMX, 360 727
1970 Mercury Cougar, 351C AOD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/18/2019 at 9:28pm
There is a few on e-bay, but your looking at $130 to $180.
Unless you know a machine shop that will reproduce things cheaper (unlikely), your going to have to buy a replacement and rebuild it.
The Mopar 67 to 69 B body brake valve looks and functions very similar at half the cost new but I have not heard of anyone using it.

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CoffinMaster View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CoffinMaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/19/2019 at 1:01am
Hmm, I'm fine with buying a new one, however if I'm gonna be getting a new one I may as well get an adjustable proportioning valve since my brake set up is mismatched. I was looking at the SSBC A0730, however on the diagram it has the inlet positions switched, and the outlet positions are in different spots but that seems to be the case for all aftermarket ones sadly. I don't mind too much if the brake warning light doesn't work, if I just plugged the top hole where the switch goes, It would still allow my brakes to function correct? If so I may just plug the top, as I was able to make a spring cap out of a small disk with a bump (Almost took apart the positive on a AA Battery since it was almost identical.).
1973 AMC Javelin AMX, 360 727
1970 Mercury Cougar, 351C AOD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/19/2019 at 5:12am
If your not going to use it then just take it out and put 2x female connectors in.
Simpler and easier to plumb the new adjustable valve. 
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401MATCOUPE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401MATCOUPE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/19/2019 at 6:46am
Could you tell us what you model you are working on??
Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar)
68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A
69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A
70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8
70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8
70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO
74MatX,401,AT,Prototype
74MatX,401,AT
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/19/2019 at 7:25am
Originally posted by CoffinMaster CoffinMaster wrote:

Hmm, I'm fine with buying a new one, however if I'm gonna be getting a new one I may as well get an adjustable proportioning valve since my brake set up is mismatched.


IMO that's what you should be using anyway. If you spend money to buy/fix the stock one and it doesn't work right, you'll still have to replace it. Why not just do it right now? Confused

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/19/2019 at 7:31am
Originally posted by 401MATCOUPE 401MATCOUPE wrote:

Could you tell us what you model you are working on??


He's got a 71-74 Javelin but it has a Mopar 8.75 rear in (from the previous owner) which has larger brakes than the AMC 20 has. That's why they are mismatched.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wheelz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/29/2019 at 7:05pm
Forget rebuilding or using used brake parts this critical. Here is the part you need if you have a Kelsey Hayes setup on your Javelin. Direct bolt in even though it looks slightly different. Larger drum brakes in the rear will not be a factor here.

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/PR102
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