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PRESSURE BLEEDED

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JERSEYJOE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JERSEYJOE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: PRESSURE BLEEDED
    Posted: Jun/18/2018 at 5:00pm
ANY IDEAS ON A PRESSURE BLEEDED? GONNA USE IT ONCE, HATE TO BUY AN EXPENSIVE ONE TIME USE DEAL


ANYONE RENT THEM
1985 J-20 PLOW TRUCK
1977 CJ 7 360 T-18 D 300
1970 AMX ex-SCCA car


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Trader View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/18/2018 at 9:50pm
I'm assuming brakes?
Pressure bleed has never been a fan of mine as the downstream pieces can still compress air and may still leave it in the system. You also miss the master and can damage some differential pressure valve components if not removed before starting, dependent on year/vehicle components. 
Gravity or vacuum bleed has always been my go to. Takes longer but never had problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73Gremlin401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/18/2018 at 11:08pm
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

I'm assuming brakes?
Pressure bleed has never been a fan of mine as the downstream pieces can still compress air and may still leave it in the system. You also miss the master and can damage some differential pressure valve components if not removed before starting, dependent on year/vehicle components. 
Gravity or vacuum bleed has always been my go to. Takes longer but never had problems.


This.  zero reason to pressure bleed an AMC.  I gravity bleed all my AMCs, and it works perfect.  start with the right rear wheel cylinder (or left rear, whichever is the longest distance from the master cylinder) and go from there, ending at the driver side front.
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77 Matador Wagon 360/727.
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83 Concord DL 4-dr 258/auto

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mixed up View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mixed up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/18/2018 at 11:36pm
you can buy a harbor freight Manuel vacuum bleeder they work great and are cheap
69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd
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JERSEYJOE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JERSEYJOE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2018 at 7:32am
Thanks for the Harbor Freight tip. I forgot to mention that this car has a Wilwood master cylinder which I did bench bleed. Has giant 4 piston Hurst Airheart Calipers front and rear so I will be filling the master often during the process.
1985 J-20 PLOW TRUCK
1977 CJ 7 360 T-18 D 300
1970 AMX ex-SCCA car


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kirkwood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote kirkwood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2018 at 12:03pm
I have a Phoenix bleeder which I have been pretty happy with. It bleeds from the wheel cylinders back up to the master cylinder (sort of a reverse mighty vac). I usually use a combination of this and gravity bleeding.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 6768rogues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2018 at 5:02pm
I gravity bleed mine without bench bleeding the master and it has always worked. 
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mchaggis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mchaggis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2018 at 4:53pm
I pressure bleed mine.  It's the only way I have ever managed to get a decent peddle feel.  i.e. firm.

I got a piece of 5/16" plate a bit bigger than the master cylinder and a piece of thick rubber about the same size.  I drilled a hole in the middle of the plate and installed a mag wheel valve with the valve removed.  I cut a slot shaped opening in the rubber so pressure could get to both reservoirs of the M/C.  Clamp a hose on to the valve and connect it to a pressure regulator then compressed air.  Clamp the plate and rubber "gasket" onto the MC with two "G" clamps.  Make bloody sure it's secured well and not overly tight.
Connect the air with the regulator turn out completely so no air flows.  Increase the pressure to about 20psi and bleed away.  CAUTION.  This way can drain the M/C quickly.  Do it in small steps or you start again once air enters the M/C.  
And you don't want to have the clamps let go when it's under pressure.  Makes one god awful mess.  
This is the only way I have ever got all the air out of my system.  Good luck.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/27/2018 at 12:04am
i've got mix'n'matched front and rear disc setups, master in the floor and hence 2 psi wilwood check valves in both circuits. the vacuum pump bleeder won't work dur to the 2psi's. i bleed (annually) with a bleeding container (with tube into the fluid) with hose on each bleeder, and slow-press the brake pedal. i keep the bleeders just cracked open. it's slow but zero-tech. the 2spi checks mean i can't gravity bleed.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote turbobuick1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/14/2018 at 6:31pm
I’ve done many brake systems as a professional mechanic and never felt the need for a pressure bleeder. A properly set up vacuum bleeder on the bleeder screws (and at the screws I use a temporary sealant to prevent air from being sucked around threads of bleeder screw) and you should be good to go. Obviously start with the furthest wheel. And make damn sure no fittings are leaking or letting in air if the lines/components have recently been replaced.
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