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Pre 71 232 steoker???

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americanjackie2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote americanjackie2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Pre 71 232 steoker???
    Posted: Oct/21/2018 at 8:58pm
Okay are there any ideas on stroking a pre 71 232 what have you guys done to squeeze out some performance from a pre 71 232 as far as the bottom end is concerned
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americanjackie2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote americanjackie2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/21/2018 at 8:59pm
Yes I know I spelt stroker wrong
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/21/2018 at 9:29pm
With the right combination of rods, and the right compression height pistons,  you can put a 258 crank in a early 232.  And put dimples in the oil pan to give the rod bolts clearance.

The deck height on the early and later 6s are different,by about 1/4 inch ??

  But it can be done.


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americanjackie2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote americanjackie2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/21/2018 at 9:48pm
You know if there's any more in-depth information on how to do it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote amcfool1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/21/2018 at 10:00pm
hi, unless you have a pile of money looking to get away from you, don't bother stroking it. Just do the time tested hotrod 101 system. Cam, carb, exhaust. The 232 is a great motor, and spins up nicely. Treat it to a top of the line rebuild, +.030, crank grind if needed, the best bearings and attention to detail, a good cam. Lots here like the Isky 256, I like the Lunati 262. get an 80s intake/exhaust manifold combo, off of any salvage yard Jeep, or, step up to a 4bbl manifold from Offy, or if you must, Clifford. Use appropriate carb, MC 2150 if 2bbl, Holley 390 if 4bbl, run a good, clean 2" exhaust, and that old 90-110hp 232 will now be making an honest 150-175hp. Got more money, ? stroke it! good luck, gz
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232jav3sp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 232jav3sp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/21/2018 at 10:02pm
Just why is it that you are interested in stroking the 232? you can get a lot more power out of that engine just by installing a later cylinder head. Even the 258 head flows better than what you have. Or, install a 4 liter head from a Jeep. Little 232 performs great with its stock displacement. The only benefit you get from stroking the 232 with a 258 crank is more displacement/more power, and even that isn't going to be enough worth doing. In my opinion anyway.

Something else you have to consider, the later 258 cranks have a different flange then the 232 in your car. Which means that your stock trans will not work with that crank. Even if you were to convert to a stick shift the 258 flywheel would not clear the bellhousing. If I'm not mistaken the later flywheels are larger than the earlier flywheels and therefore do not fit in the smaller bellhousing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote americanjackie2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/21/2018 at 10:04pm
Yep nope absolutely fair enough that's why I was asking the question to see if it was even viable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblin64sw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/21/2018 at 11:24pm
Originally posted by 232jav3sp 232jav3sp wrote:

The only benefit you get from stroking the 232 with a 258 crank is more displacement/more power,


That's good enough for me!
I don't think it would be that bad. My early 232, has a deck height of 9.285" . With a 3.895 stroke and using the early 232 5.875" rods, leaves you with a piston that needs a compression height of 1.462" . The 305 Chevy piston has a compression height of 1.540" . You would need to trim the piston top .080" , (add a dish to get compression back down) to get to zero deck. You will need the wrist pin bores opened up a few thousand to accomodate the 232 wrist pin.

Adapting the early 153 tooth flywheel to the later crank is relatively simple. (I have a 4.0 crank in my early block) The early flywheel registers on the 4.500" O. D. of the crank flange. The late model crank flange is 4.550" . I simply had the 4.500" register in the flywheel opened up to 4.550" . As it so happened, the flywheel's I.D. Bore was already perfectly sized to fit the late model crank 2.685" register "snout".

I say go for it. It will run great with that 4.0 head!

Jon

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/22/2018 at 6:10am
I'm assuming you want to keep the original trans? 4.0L engines are cheap enough now I'd build a 4.6L stroker, even if you want to keep a carb. Won't cost much more than sticking a 258 crank in the 232 -- maybe about the same since you can now buy off the shelf pistons to use the 4.0L rods and 258 crank (preferred over using 258 crank and rods). You would have to replace the transmission, but if you're building a lot more power you will benefit from upgrading the trans as well.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amc67rogue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/22/2018 at 11:15am
IIRC the 71 232 has the same block as the 258. First yr. for the 258 was 71.

Edited by amc67rogue - Oct/22/2018 at 5:39pm
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