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Pacer Spindles for Racers? |
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Brad
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Aug/07/2016 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 433 |
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Ya that's what I'm wanting to order as well. I have a rack I'm considering on my 71 Javelin. Let us know if they fit please!
Edited by Brad - Oct/12/2019 at 2:54am |
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Lucas660
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2012 Location: Vic, Australia Status: Offline Points: 1344 |
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No worries, I will document and measure including tie rod taper etc. For now I just have to chose where I drive because I can't get full lock, luckily I live in a rural area and not in a big city.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Online Points: 19691 |
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YES. All AMC spindles (the part that holds the bearings and hub, anyway, are the SAME from at least 1950 on. The lone exception is the 1975-78 front discs, which used a larger bearing spindle. Even those spindles interchange with others -- the four hole bolt pattern is the same. The only difference in the spindles (with the one exception) is the thickness of the base. Drum bases are typically thinner than disc bases (except for the 66-70 four piston Bendix brakes, they used drum spindles, IIRC). There are 2-3 thicknesses of drum brakes. V-8 brakes were usually wider than six, and some have thicker bases to allow the drums to clear the steering knuckle (the upright)... but not all. Easy enough to use longer bolts and spacers (grade 8 washers.. they won't crush) with drum spindles, disc spindles may have to be machined thinner depending on what brakes you want to use. Most people don't have that problem, few go from discs to drum!
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Frank Swygert
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Brad
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Aug/07/2016 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 433 |
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Thanks for the info. I figured something was up by using the rockauto catalog and noticed pacer rotors are different than 71 Javelins. Looks like one could use pacer spindles then on a Javelin as they have bigger bearings ( but smaller rotors) but more important is availability and cost. Seems like only one manufacturer is making rotors for the humpsters and they are expensive. Of coarse I figure this out after I bought new rotors LOL.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Online Points: 19691 |
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In general anything but the 79-83 small car rotors are expensive because they are unique to AMC. The 79-83 rotors are getting harder to find and higher in price also. You can still get Centric and Raybestos brand (probably same manufacturer) for just under $30 from RockAuto. Wagner and Bendix brands are over $50. Honestly, I was surprised to see the <$30 rotors at all, last time I bought one from a local store it was around $40, and that was 8-10 years ago. Probably a Wagner or Bendix though. This is the main reason I always recommend the Scarebird kit if replacing drums for a driver. Cheaper, easier to find parts for the next 20-30 years as the original style AMC parts continue to get scarce and expensive. Calipers are cheap because they are the same, regardless of year, as many other makes used. Just the caliper mounts are AMC unique, and maybe hoses, though you can use generic/other make hoses as long as the ends and lengths are close. The old Bendix four piston calipers are a little pricey, but there is a Chinese made new part available now that is a bit cheaper. Couldn't find pricing, but they have been reported in the $50-100 range. The old Bendix design has the seal on the piston, so the body wears. Newer calipers all have the seal in the body so that the easy to replace piston wears.
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Frank Swygert
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
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unless originality is important, consider that an entire Scarebird setup might be cheaper and brake just as well. and maybe preserve your original parts for later. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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Brad
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Aug/07/2016 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 433 |
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I already purchased the rotors so I might as well use them. Thanks though!
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Online Points: 19691 |
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At least you have the most expensive part on hand! Until you need new ones it's not an issue. Depending on how much you drive the car and no other issues (like a sticking caliper or pads that wear down fast for some reason) that should be a while. Even then $200 for rotors is cheaper than replacing everything with something else. Even the economical Scarebird kit is around $400 total. The $129 kit is just caliper brackets, a couple small items and a list of needed parts. The $239 big rotor kit includes bearings and spacers as well -- things that would be harder to find locally. You still have to get $200 or so in other parts.
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Frank Swygert
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Lucas660
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2012 Location: Vic, Australia Status: Offline Points: 1344 |
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My concern was more with the steering arms. On paper the 5 3/8" steering arm centre to centre works.... With a rack with a total of 6 inches throw. Ends up at around 30 degrees steering which is further than the stops on a '64 classic at least. I can't confirm with a upper ball joint front end because I don't have one here with me to measure the offset. But evidence from several threads on here convinced me to purchase. I will confirm and show my working out later. |
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Brad
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Aug/07/2016 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 433 |
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I definitely would appreciate your input/findings. I'm on the fence with what way to go in my 71 Javelin. I have a brand new flaming river rack that I didn't end up using from a previous project. Undecided which way I'll go, the rack or an upgraded/updated faster ratio steering box. Is the pacer rack steering arm straighter than the Javelin steering arm? It appears to be straighter in the picture..... thinking about bump steer/geometry.... Also curious with the Argo is it set up for a tierod taper ( if so which one?) or is it a hole for a bolt and a rod end? Edited by Brad - Oct/14/2019 at 11:20am |
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