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opinion before I take it apart

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pit crew View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/01/2015 at 9:47pm
My opinion? Yes sir, that is a leak........ LOL



Just kidding with ya Joe. I hate trying to find and seal up leaks.

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/02/2015 at 8:10am
A learning thing - those DO have a seal between the yoke, splines and nut.
AND - I removed the front end of the driveshaft last night, put the 1 1/8" socket on my breaker bar and prepared to give a big pull - and I gave just a little pull and the nut was turning - in fact a ratchet could have removed the nut. It was a lock nut of course with interference threads but it wasn't tight or torqued. Before I really turned it - as soon as I realized it wasn't tight, I tried to turn it clockwise to see just how far untight it was - I got a good 1/16th of a turn clockwise before it felt tight at all.
So - the nut wasn't tight. I removed it, found the seal, removed the yoke and cleaned things up VERY well with brake parts cleaner, and put some silicon made for direct oil contact sparingly on the splines and the mating surface of the nut, and installed things, including the seal you'll see here, and tightened it up GOOD and tight.

In these pictures you can see how "wet and oily" looking the nut surface, the nut THREADs were, and even the inside of the yoke - a bad outer seal like an output shaft seal would wet the outside of the yoke but in my case after removing the drive shaft the inside of the yoke was oily feeling, as was the nut - it had a shine and glisten to it.

Also check the wear pattern on the nut - looks to me like the yoke has been pushing and rubbing on it - you can see where it's transferred machining marks from the yoke to the surface of the nut - as well as spline patterns. I suspect the nut has not been tight enough for quite some time - possibly since I first removed the transfer case from the crate!

First photo is the yoke nut - and that seal I mentioned........
A and B mark the transfer of the machining marks from the yoke to the nut from "rubbing and pounding" is my guess and the spline marks from the same process.
Another photo has lines drawn to point to the depth of the marks the splines made over time. IF that nut had been TIGHT, there would have been no movement and there would have been no transfer or imprints on the nut - correct? Because there could have been no movement, no pounding action if my thinking process is correct here.

I'm pretty sure without looking it up that they never intended for that yoke to "float" on the output shaft splines.....













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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/02/2015 at 9:07pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:


A learning thing - those DO have a seal between the yoke, splines and nut.
AND - I removed the front end of the driveshaft last night, put the 1 1/8" socket on my breaker bar and prepared to give a big pull - and I gave just a little pull and the nut was turning - in fact a ratchet could have removed the nut. It was a lock nut of course with interference threads but it wasn't tight or torqued. Before I really turned it - as soon as I realized it wasn't tight, I tried to turn it clockwise to see just how far untight it was - I got a good 1/16th of a turn clockwise before it felt tight at all.
So - the nut wasn't tight. I removed it, found the seal, removed the yoke and cleaned things up VERY well with brake parts cleaner, and put some silicon made for direct oil contact sparingly on the splines and the mating surface of the nut, and installed things, including the seal you'll see here, and tightened it up GOOD and tight.

In these pictures you can see how "wet and oily" looking the nut surface, the nut THREADs were, and even the inside of the yoke - a bad outer seal like an output shaft seal would wet the outside of the yoke but in my case after removing the drive shaft the inside of the yoke was oily feeling, as was the nut - it had a shine and glisten to it.

Also check the wear pattern on the nut - looks to me like the yoke has been pushing and rubbing on it - you can see where it's transferred machining marks from the yoke to the surface of the nut - as well as spline patterns. I suspect the nut has not been tight enough for quite some time - possibly since I first removed the transfer case from the crate!

First photo is the yoke nut - and that seal I mentioned........
A and B mark the transfer of the machining marks from the yoke to the nut from "rubbing and pounding" is my guess and the spline marks from the same process.
Another photo has lines drawn to point to the depth of the marks the splines made over time. IF that nut had been TIGHT, there would have been no movement and there would have been no transfer or imprints on the nut - correct? Because there could have been no movement, no pounding action if my thinking process is correct here.

I'm pretty sure without looking it up that they never intended for that yoke to "float" on the output shaft splines.....
















As long as you found the leak.    Ive seen some yokes that doesn't have that seal.   A loose nut doesn't help.....
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