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opinion before I take it apart |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Jul/01/2015 at 1:12pm |
I have a leak, well, I don't, my car does. The SX4 is leaking and leaving spots on the shop floor but only after a drive. It does not leak while sitting. The spots are dripping from the car's floor underside onto the shop floor.
It's an interesting sort of pattern. There's a pattern on the bottom of the car around the front end of the driveshaft, then you can see where it sort of runs to the low spots of the car's floor and drops to my shop floor. It leaves spots on the shop floor not in the middle but on each side of the middle. The middle is clean and dry on the shop floor. My thought is that this is coming from between the yoke at the back of the transfer case and the transfer case output shaft. It's not the seal as that should leave drips at the low point of the seal itself. The seal never really feels or looks wet and you never see a single drop coming from the transfer case - it only drips from the car's floor. The outside of the yoke is also not as wet as I'd expect if the leak was where the yoke and seal met. The inside feels slick all the time. That's why I think it's being thrown up against the bottom of the car as the yoke spins- out from the CENTER of the yoke, past the nut and being spread like a grass seed or fertilizer spreader broadcasts your seed - or fertilizer as the spreader spins. It's not the vent above - the top of the transfer case is dry, the vent is dry - dusty but dry, free from oil. The transfer case uses ATF. That means it's "thinner" than oil and not dark like oil would be. It is more easily spread or fan-sprayed - IF I am correct. Now to figure out a solution if this is indeed the source of the "leak"....... BTW - the transfer case isn't worn out, it's brand new, the whole thing is new. It was a NOS transfer case in a crate I bought and installed when I did the engine swap. It came with the yoke pre-installed, ready to put in the car except removing the plastic plugs and putting fluid in it. |
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6PakBee
Supporter of TheAMCForum Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Offline Points: 5458 |
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I've seen leaks through the splines on yokes before. I'd pull the U-joint and the retaining nut and see if that is the case. However, if I was a betting man, that looks like a seal leak to me.
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Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Note that the spray pattern on the floor is wettest directly over the center of the u-joint. It's fairly dry directly above the seal, and the seal is always dry with no red fluid on the seal or the outside part of the yoke that runs in the seal. That surface never shows red, or fluid drops at all.
The first, third and fourth photos really show the pattern to be directly above the u-joint, though, and looking straight up from below the shaft it's much more wet, more shine, a larger amount of fluid in a line straight out fro the center of the joint, as if the fluid was spraying out of the ends of the u-joint itself. Every seal I've seen leak that had fluid directly behind the seal in contact with it at all times shows wet at the seal lip. The seal lip in this case won't leave a film on your finger or a cloth. The seal was my first suspect until I started really going over the photos and the spray pattern from a distance and different angles. Here's a better shot of what I mean....... |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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So e late th400 yokes will leak like that... Something about one of the rear seals failing that allows the yoke to drip.
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Apparently the machined surface at the very front end of the yoke and the machined surface it is pressed against when you tighten that nut don't mate well and fluid can get between them and then come out past the splines and out the nut - and we know that standard threads aren't a snug fit that can hold back fluids. If you screw a nut onto a bolt, hold the bolt vertical and place a drop of thin oil where the nut and bolt meet, you'll see oil out the bottom of the nut threads after a while. They aren't an interference fit.
You'd think that the two machined surfaces I mentioned would hold the fluid back. They need a seal between the yoke and the splined shaft it fits over I guess- unless that nut isn't as tight as it should be. It came crated NOS but I never checked it to be sure it was properly torqued. The more I look at the larger photos of different angles, the more I'm convinced it's leaking past the splines and out past the nut. Either way the drive shaft must come out, rats. I've already got enough to do without this sort of stuff, too. Now - to figure out how to seal that - at least it won't have fluid sitting up to the shaft level. I'll be able to dry it off good to seal it up since the bulk of the case where the fluid resides is a lot lower than this. No fluid actually sits against the back of the seal when it's sitting. |
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purple72Gremlin
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 16614 |
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Sometimes the fix is to put sealer on the splines (where the yoke slides on)
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6768rogues
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6241 |
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If I can drive it to a distant car show and back without stopping to add oil, I ignore it.
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Content intended for mature audiences. If you experience nausea or diarrhea, stop reading and seek medical attention.
Located usually near Rochester, NY and sometimes central FL. |
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Fluffy73
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/21/2007 Location: Castlegar, BC Status: Offline Points: 3059 |
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I agree. Get a small bottle of the "white goo" thread sealant or use the good old roll of plumbers tape. How wide of a shoulder does the nut have? Any chance of getting some RTV or "The Right Stuff" in there? |
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I am genetically incapable of being Politically Correct.
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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LOL - It's quite a mess on the floor - and under the car which I want clean for Ohio. I don't need to go walking across my shop floor and land on my head due to ATF spots. Besides, when it does get low, these are a PAIN to refill......... Guess where the fill hole is......... yeah, you have to remove stuff. |
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Buzzman72
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/15/2009 Location: Southern IN Status: Online Points: 2726 |
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GM used to have a product called PST...pipe sealant with Teflon.
The way you describe this, I'd be tempted to remove the nut, remove the yoke, smear some PST on the yoke's splines, and then reinstall. That's just me. I don't envy you for the work ahead of you.
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Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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