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one wire alternator

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kalve View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kalve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/19/2017 at 10:20am
Ok nice to know I have a 70 Rebel SST Wagon that needs a alternator & battery. I am thinking about going with 80-100 amp alternator & MSD ignition coil & new voltage regulator. Just want something to handle everything so I wont have lights dim etc.. Would a 80 amp alternator be safe to put on it? Its the only thing I see local that is new & not reman. The alternator that is on the car the wire is broke & bolt hole messed up on it so I was just going to replace it with a new one. I am also going to go with 4 core radiator & looking to see if a trim line cooling fan will fit behind the radiator. I have the AMC 360 2 bbl.

Edited by kalve - Nov/19/2017 at 10:39am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73hornut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/19/2017 at 10:30am
Originally posted by vinny vinny wrote:

Just curious, how do you know it doesn't charge at idle and how much do you have to increase the revs to make it charge.

On my 10si's the light only came on when the engine ran really slow and probably an extra 25 RPM might have been enough to put it out.
Volt gauge drops to 12 at idle and goes up to 14.5 with a few hundred more rpm. idle is about 700 rpm. Volts go up when in park and idle is higher. In gear with fans on and lights and wipers, volts are just below 12.


Edited by 73hornut - Nov/19/2017 at 10:33am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mc5fan1968 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/20/2017 at 6:35am
Delco alternators are Y wound. Y wound alternators do not put out well at lower RPM. My Rebel Machine's 1 wire Delco (NOT my install. It was there when I bought it) dims the lights way down at idle. I plan to restore the stock Motorola setup in the future.

Delta wound alternators, like the stock Motorola alternators put out much better at low RPM due to the windings being in parallel as opposed to being in series like the Y wound units.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/20/2017 at 7:01am
It's delta vs. wye.

The delta looks like, well, a triangle..... the wye has the three legs connected at one end to a common point, the other end of each leg goes to the diodes.  Wye windings can be shown as three windings meeting in the middle, the outer ends to the diodes while delta windings are in a triangle, each side of the triangle joining the next at the end and the corners of the triangle are the points where they go to the diodes

The delta stator will put out higher amperage at low RPM while the wye puts out higher voltage at low RPM.  There is a factor of something like 1.7 as I recall. 

Ah, but Motorola made both types, depending on specific model, etc.  Delco - all the same.

And yes, Motorola does put out better at low RPM than Delco, esp the 10si
(I just sent out to fully restored Motorola alternators for Rebel Machines)
Delco again never made single wire alternators........... that's a third party thing  - 
more later, I have to run to my back doctor for my regular Monday early AM session. 

Gotta run


Edited by billd - Nov/20/2017 at 7:09am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/20/2017 at 9:19pm
OK, back on alternator stator wiring methods............

The basic difference between star (wye) and delta is that star (WYE) generates a high voltage at a low current, and delta generates a low voltage at a high current.
The total (no load) power generated is the same.

To calculate the output AC voltage and current of a three-phase alternator wired in star or delta all you have to do is know or measure the voltage and current of one of the coils.
Multiply the voltage of one coil by the number of coils per phase to obtain the phase voltage. The square root of the number of phases (3) = 1.732 can be used to calculate the total outputs with 
either configuration.

For kicks, and easy math, here's an example "all else being equal"-
If you have one phase which gives 20 Volts at 12 Amps:
Star (WYE) – Voltage = 20 * 1.732 = 34.6V, Current is unchanged at 12 Amps
Delta Voltage is unchanged at 20 Volts, Current = 12 X 1.732 = 20.8 Amps.
Delta wound wind generators require more effort to get them to start spinning, I would assume that it would be the same for a three phase alternator in a car, too, assuming you have field current and a load.

So in summary:
WYE = Higher voltage more quickly (at lower RPM) Two windings are in series at any one time during charge output.
Wye is used to get higher voltage at lower RPM - builds voltage more quickly.

Delta = higher current flow at lower RPM. Windings are in parallel rather than series like WYE (star)  Higher capacity alternators are typically delta wound, but that's typical, not a hard rule.

It's easy enough to tell by looking at a stator if it's delta or wye - look for the common connection point of the wye or star, you'll see three copper wires connected together and you'll see three individual leads coming out of the stator, connected to two leads each which go to the diodes. 
The delta wound will not have those three wires twisted or connected together independent of the other leads to the diodes - it won't exist, plus, each lead to the diodes will have two copper wires coming from the stator windings instead of one. 

In each example below - A, B and C are where the stator connects to the POS and NEG diodes. There are three of each inside so A connects to a POS and NEG, B connects to a different POS and NEG and C connects to the third POS and third NEG diode. 




Edited by billd - Nov/20/2017 at 9:22pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/20/2017 at 9:31pm
Originally posted by kalve kalve wrote:

Ok nice to know I have a 70 Rebel SST Wagon that needs a alternator & battery. I am thinking about going with 80-100 amp alternator & MSD ignition coil & new voltage regulator. Just want something to handle everything so I wont have lights dim etc.. Would a 80 amp alternator be safe to put on it? Its the only thing I see local that is new & not reman. The alternator that is on the car the wire is broke & bolt hole messed up on it so I was just going to replace it with a new one. I am also going to go with 4 core radiator & looking to see if a trim line cooling fan will fit behind the radiator. I have the AMC 360 2 bbl.


Unless you have electric fans and other added-on power equipment, 55 is plenty - and if you don't have AC, 35 is plenty. An 80 amp would be big over-kill - unless you go electric fans. 
If that 360 is stock - even with AC, a three row core is plenty. (you only have one core in a radiator, but the core may have 2 or 3 rows if it's stock, a 4 row core would have to be after-market!)
A stock 360 2bbl won't generate a ton of BTUs and without AC could use 2 row core, with AC definitely do a 3 row core. 

The factory ratings as far as alternators are plenty fine - unless you add stuff like power fans and so on - then it "depends on the fans" how much more would be needed. 
The amount of work you do to swap alternators will depend on the brand/make/model of alternator you want to put on. Motorola as far as the style or model used by AMC (A series) came in up to 62 amp models. Motorola made far far larger units, but AMC never used them (there was no need!)
A 62 amp Motorola is a direct bolt on to any AMC that used Motorola, but for a 1970 or prior year car the regulator would have to be changed unless you got a fleet alternator like AMC used on cop cars, etc. and then it would swap in directly.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/20/2017 at 9:41pm
Originally posted by 73hornut 73hornut wrote:

Originally posted by vinny vinny wrote:

Just curious, how do you know it doesn't charge at idle and how much do you have to increase the revs to make it charge.

On my 10si's the light only came on when the engine ran really slow and probably an extra 25 RPM might have been enough to put it out.
Volt gauge drops to 12 at idle and goes up to 14.5 with a few hundred more rpm. idle is about 700 rpm. Volts go up when in park and idle is higher. In gear with fans on and lights and wipers, volts are just below 12.


The 10si is a different animal and is not a "one wire alternator".

That's pretty low at idle - but 14.5 sounds about right otherwise. 
So either you are experiencing the side effect of that particular version of someone's single wire alternator mod or there's a problem such as a diode bad/going bad, or slipping belt, etc. A belt that isn't gripping can still spin it enough to give you the needed voltage at higher RPM as the percentage of slip would be most notable at idle speeds. A 10% slip at 700 means a 70 RPM drop, down to 630 RPM - (just rough simple figures grossly over-simplifying things!) but that same 10% at 1500 RPM means it's still spinning at 1350 (I know, I know, not accounting for pulley size and ratios etc.)
Similar in how a bad diode could impact things.
On the other hand, I'm not sure how those single wire regulators all function - each is a bit different (they are not GM/stock) so it's possible that unless it was better when brand new, you are experiencing the side-effect of the beast. There is no external excitation circuit, and some actually have the terminals 1 and 2 bridged so you can't connect any light circuit or sending to them. 
Alternators have their rotors treated so they don't hold residual magnetism - unlike generators. They depend on something feeding that field to get them started charging - unless you hit high enough RPM and then what little magnetism there is can get them going. 
This is one reason the "single wire" setup works on tractors - how often does anyone idle a piece of ag or construction equipment? You start it and shove the throttle lever ahead and get to work, so there's never an idle charging issue to worry about. 
I'd have to look at the schematics and wiring of a couple of different single wire type regulators to see if I can see something that might stick out or jump out at me. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mc5fan1968 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2017 at 12:22pm
Have you checked all your diodes?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2017 at 12:33pm
That was one of the possibilities I mentioned.......... in a NORMAL alternator the diode trio would supply field current via the regulator and if it's bad, it can cause issues.
A bad diode can lead to "restricted output" or lower output at lower speeds because it's operating at only partial capacity. A scope would reveal that. Otherwise to properly test the diodes without disassembly a real tester is needed as the stator windings will cause false readings.
A bad diode - either shorted, open, or weak, would show on a scope pattern. 
A load test could also reveal problems - but you need to load the system and force the alternator to go to full output. If you can't get within about two or three amps of rated output, there's a problem 
With a motorola if you can access the back you can actually check voltage of each leg of the stator as the stator to diode connections are accessible via the back frame vents.

14.5 is likely within a couple tenths of the regulated voltage so that's not a lot of help. Load test is the next best, but ideally, put it on a scope.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mc5fan1968 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2017 at 12:38pm
I would remove the alternator, service the bearings, brushes and slip rings and then disconnect and test all the diodes. Motorolas are easy to service and parts are still easily available.
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