Old brakes, where to start? '68 Ambo

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   I'm in the process of getting this car roadworthy, replaced the busted flexplate, trans oil pump seals, ujoints, starter and the engine will now start and idle for a bit (still going through fuel filter/pump/gas for issues), but I need to tackle very old and probably untouched brakes. I'm going to remove one drum and check the condition to see if it needs to be turned (O'Reilly's said they'd mic and turn if enough metal is there for $10/drum). Can someone provide a list of common issues, things to check, etc? I have the TSM, does that cover everything? Consider me a beginner.
Thanks!

Brian

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skynless Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Aug/29/2013 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 256	Post Options Post Reply Quote skynless Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Old brakes, where to start? '68 Ambo Posted: Jun/19/2018 at 11:38am
	I'm in the process of getting this car roadworthy, replaced the busted flexplate, trans oil pump seals, ujoints, starter and the engine will now start and idle for a bit (still going through fuel filter/pump/gas for issues), but I need to tackle very old and probably untouched brakes. I'm going to remove one drum and check the condition to see if it needs to be turned (O'Reilly's said they'd mic and turn if enough metal is there for $10/drum). Can someone provide a list of common issues, things to check, etc? I have the TSM, does that cover everything? Consider me a beginner. Thanks! Brian
	1968 Rebel SST 343 1968 Ambassador SST 343

Trader Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6881	Post Options Post Reply Quote Trader Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/19/2018 at 11:59am
	A lot of things depend on how the car was stored. A visual of all fuel and brake lines is a must. How much rust and the condition of all hoses? Michigan - if mine, rebuild all wheel cylinders, replace brake springs, new brake pads, new brake hoses, new fuel hoses that will take ethanol (whether you plan to use it or not). Flush fuel and brake systems. Those old brake pads may look fine but if rust has worked under the pad it may come off on the first hard stop. If they look like new - no rust, then I'd use them as is. Some shops will take a deep cut on drums/rotors and you end up paying for new drums anyhow. I don't know availability of your drums but a brake shop that people trust in the area may charge more for a clean-up cut as it may take several passes but against the cost of replacement drums or the huge cost if there are no replacements and you have to have them sleeved - well???

ramblinrev Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: Dec/28/2008 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 11535	Post Options Post Reply Quote ramblinrev Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/19/2018 at 12:05pm
	Replace master cylinder and all the wheel cylinders with new. They are inexpensive, and cheap insurance. If you've not done a master before, be sure you follow procedure for bleeding the master cylinder before you install it on the car. Then you will still bleed the entire system, once installed.
	74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977) 62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384 70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)

Fluffy73 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/21/2007 Location: Castlegar, BC Status: Offline Points: 3059	Post Options Post Reply Quote Fluffy73 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/19/2018 at 2:41pm
	Has the car been sitting for more than 2 years? More than 5? Anything more than 5 years, you might as well just rebuild the system. It's relatively cheap, fairly easy and worth the money - unless you don't mind gambling with your life. Replace Master cylinder and all slave cylinders. Replace Shoes and Hardware. Replace Rubber Lines. Blow out metal lines with compressed air if they are suspect. Replace Drums if necessary <---- That could be the hard part. Finding decent enough drums. Even NEW ones should be turned and checked to ensure they are true.
	I am genetically incapable of being Politically Correct.

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/20/2018 at 6:01am
	Fluffy73 has the right idea. Takes a bit of time, but do one wheel at a time. That way you can always go look at the wheel on the other side (some differences between front and rear) if you forget how something came off. If you were considering a front disc conversion (I recommend the Scarebird for a driver) now would be a good time.
	Frank Swygert