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Oiling Issue Resolved, but the damage is done |
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74CJ5 
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Joined: Jan/30/2010 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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 Posted: Jan/30/2010 at 10:23pm |
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The motor was in my 74 jeep. I do not know how to identify the year but it uses oil filter for 87 + up and gaskets for 86 - 90.
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poormansMACHINE
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Posted: Jan/30/2010 at 11:07pm |
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The ID is stamped in the passenger side of the block
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farna
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Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7103 |
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Posted: Jan/30/2010 at 11:08pm |
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If you're concerned about oil coming up through that hole just drive a pin in it or tap it for a set screw and put that in. As PMM says, oil shouldn't leak there once the head is torqued down. I've never heard of anyone plugging the hole, and I'm sure many have swapped later heads on early blocks. Never heard of any oil leaks either. The oil will just "dead head" there, not build up pressure and blow its way out. Oil follows the path of least resistance in the engine, and a dead end is a good bit of resistance!
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Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com |
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74CJ5
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Posted: Jan/31/2010 at 7:38am |
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I guess I did not explain my issue clear enough. This is a running motor and I cannot tap the oil passage in fear of metal dropping in the lifter oil passage. The oil passage is not a nominal size. It is .203” in dia. needing a custom dowel pin. The oil passage on the block is on a wide casting web, which barely exists on the head. The head gasket has a slot between the oil passage hole on the deck and the head bolt. There would be clearance on the head surface because the head gasket slot is wider than the casting web on the head forcing oil to leak back into the lifter galley. The 86-90 head gasket has this slot and 81-85 head gasket has 7/16” head bolts were I have ½” head bolts. I think I can solve this by using a head gasket a head gasket with ½” head bolts and without the slot which would fit the 86-90 block. Would a 1980 head gasket do this?
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farna
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Posted: Jan/31/2010 at 8:54am |
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I should think that a 75-80 head gasket would do the trick then. Bolt pattern, bore centers, and even bore stayed the same or you wouldn't be able to even use a later head. The only change in block dimensions that I know of are for the 87-89 258, which is slightly wider (about 1/8") than older blocks, same as the 4.0L block.
Not many of us have had a lot of experience with the old rocker shaft engines, at least not recently. I couldn't recall the size of the hole. It shouldn't be hard to find a small machine screw of a size that would drive in the hole, either US or metric though. I'd still use a head gasket that seals, or fill the slot with RTV. There should be no compression leaking in the area, just oil pressure. |
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Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com |
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74CJ5
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Posted: Jan/31/2010 at 9:14am |
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Thanks, I will try the 75-80 head gasket. I already purchased the 2 other gaskets and did not want to buy any others until I was sure. I will put some RTV in the hole.
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poormansMACHINE
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Posted: Jan/31/2010 at 12:10pm |
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO NEVERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR |
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KermitDRambler
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Posted: Jan/31/2010 at 4:03pm |
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You really need to find out what year block you have. If you have the starter on the right side, the engine is a 1972 or newer. There is a date code stamped on a machined pad on the block between the #2 and #3 spark plugs.
The first digit indicates the calendar year the engine was built and not the model year of the vehicle. For example, a 1967 model year car built at the end of 1966 will have an engine with a 1966 date code. Prior to 1980, you have to add 2 to the digit to get the year: 1966=8, 67=9, 68=1, 1969=2, etc. Due to a change in the numbering system, 1980 and later uses the last digit of the year (1980 = 0, 1981=1 etc.). The next two numbers will be the month the engine was made in. A letter code (usually the same as VIN engine code) will tell engine size and compression.
Besides changing pushrods, I'm pretty sure you need to change the lifters as well unless you know that it has the later design lifter that is intended for use on the bridged style rockers. If the engine is a 1972 or later, you will be all set. Once the head is off, you can get the lifters out. There is a special tool made for this.
Putting RTV or other sealants in the oil passage is a problem waiting to happen. Those are made to seal small spaces and not fill out holes. As previously stated, putting the new head on will block the oil passage. Head gaskets can take a lot more pressure than the oil pump is capable of producing so I'd just slap the correct gasket for the year of the motor on it and be done with it.
Also, the oil filter boss is the same for a lot of years (I'm not even sure it changed for the 4.0). There were a couple of different lengths of filters used depending upon the application. If you have the room, the older, larger filters have more filter material in them which is better and more surface area on the filter will aid cooling a tiny bit.
Matt
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1967 American wagon
http://www.mattsoldcars.com |
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74CJ5
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Posted: Jan/31/2010 at 5:07pm |
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I went to the part store to purchase 75-80 head gasket. The 86 to 90 gasket I have is the only one avalible. I guess it is the Felpro universal gasket which would work on most applications. I still am not clear on the date codes but the numbers on my motor are 508E08. I do have the lifter tool and did change the lifters. The only option I have left is to make a aluminum dowl pin with a light press fit. |
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poormansMACHINE
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Posted: Jan/31/2010 at 5:22pm |
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1975 (5)
8th month (08) 232 (E) 8th day (08) The only way you're using later oil filters is if someone stripped the thread and replaced the fitting, or the threads are boogered up. 87/90 (maybe) metric thread 91 and newer Chrysler/Ford thread |
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74CJ5 wrote: