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Oil pressure sender connector

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Rodney Schultz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rodney Schultz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Oil pressure sender connector
    Posted: Aug/05/2018 at 11:15pm
Wiring in an AMC oil pressure sender/gauge into my Gremlin that didn’t come with one originally. I need a new 90 degree rubber pigtail connector. Seems the AMC sender has a #10 stud instead of the more commonly available #8 stud replacement connector.
Has anyone found a source for a #10 stud connector? I’d like to keep it original looking, so a ring terminal on the stud with a nut doesn’t work for me.

Rodney
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2018 at 8:16am
Roger Gazur
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Rodney Schultz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rodney Schultz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2018 at 8:25am
That’s what I’m looking for for the original look, but when I read up on that one, the comments all mention the same problem. It too is too small for the #10 stud size.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2018 at 3:28pm
In wire/steel gauge size the higher the number the smaller the size. #10 is smaller then #8.
That JCPony listed at #8 should be too loose for a #10 connection.
#8 connections for temperature/oil/lighter ... seem to be the common size across the major NA made vehicles of the era.
A little confused.
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Rodney Schultz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rodney Schultz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2018 at 5:05pm
Thread (stud) size is not the same as wire gauge size.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2018 at 6:44pm
At this point in time I'd be tempted to grind the 0.026" off the stud and make it into a #8.   :shruggy:
Roger Gazur
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2018 at 9:51pm
Well stand corrected. Never seen an electrical gauge size completely opposite a wire gauge size.
Is this US only?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2018 at 7:48am
It's not an electrical gauge size, it's a machine screw size and it's not US only. Still quite common in Canada though we have officially adopted the metric standard.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote turbobuick1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/14/2018 at 6:19pm
I think it will almost be impossible to find a 90 degree number 10 boot. I would personally use a ring terminal, apply heatshrink tubing over the crimped portion to prevent water intrusion into the wire, and coat the terminal with dielectric grease.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/14/2018 at 6:52pm
Originally posted by Rodney Schultz Rodney Schultz wrote:

That’s what I’m looking for for the original look, but when I read up on that one, the comments all mention the same problem. It too is too small for the #10 stud size.


There's not a whale of a lot of difference between a 10 and 8 stud - most of the originals, if that is made like the originals, could be either squeezes for smaller studs or expanded a tad for larger studs and the rubber would accommodate.
A pair of long nosed needle nose pliers can be used to open up many connectors like that......
I can't say my methods would work on THAT connector, but I'm pretty picky on that sort of thing so I would bet I could find a way to make it not only look original, but be something that would work and last

When I can't get original type replacements, what I do is salvage good connectors and ends from harnesses and use several inches of the wire with connector and solder it to the wire up inside the harness, use heat shrink, and then re-wrap it. 
Looks original because it IS original and the connection is hidden and protected in the harness. Only I know it's got a solder joint inside the harness. 

I've done that for over 4 decades when a correct or workable replacement isn't available or at hand.


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