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Oil Pan Removal

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Mickey12 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mickey12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Oil Pan Removal
    Posted: May/31/2018 at 9:15am
How do I remove my oil pan to replace a leaking gasket from my '65 6cy. Classic without engine removal?
Read a few posts, but still asking. 
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mixed up View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mixed up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 12:00am
there's really no easy way drop the cross member or pull the motor you might get away with dropping the cross member alittle and support the engine without dropping the suspension with it either way its time consuming
69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd
80 ford fairmont
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 7:08pm
In the TSM there's a procedure where they use a beam of some sort across the top of the fenders to hold up the engine. Then you can take out the crossmember and then get at the oil pan.
1968 AMX 390 / T5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 7:30pm
With the V8's, support the engine from above and lower the cross member and drag link to get the oil pan out, I presume the 6 is the same. You don't need to take the cross member right out, just remove the 4 attaching bolts/nuts and pull it down a bit, that way you don't mess up your front end alignment.
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Mickey12 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mickey12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 7:49pm
Great info guys!!!!!! Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pdok Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 8:24pm
I'll throw this out there, as far as I can tell from reading the 6-cyl oil pan removal experience is pretty much the same across the various years.  After successfully doing mine with the engine in the car, I swore never again without pulling the motor/trans (as a unit).  But, totally doable in the car too.

But, I unbolted the x-member, unbolted steering gearbox, unbolted motor mounts, sway bar, seems like some other stuff (exhaust probably), accel and trans linkages, shifter, etc. (it's pretty obvious what to unhook) then raised the engine from overhead until the trans hit the tunnel with a hoist while letting the x-member hang to bottom of bolts.  Did not clear enough to get the pan out, however.  I had to wedge 2x4s and force the x-member down another 1.5 inches to slide the pan free (barely).

In retro, by the time I got all that disconnected, I could have just hoisted the motor clear anyway without the hassle of the crossmember.  I was already doing a cam and head, so most of the accessories, hoses, wires were disconnected anyway. That may not be your situation though.  One thing I didn't try was drop the trans mount and tilt the motor/trans at a steep angle to get more clearance at the crossmember.  Just didn't occur to me from under the car on my driveway.

If it were me, I'd replace all 3 eng/trans mounts, rear seal, and inspect the bottom end, oil pickup carefully while the pan is off and engine is jacked up.  Not sure on crossover to your year, but the Felpro 1-piece oil pan gasket is a thing of beauty if it fits for you.  Not a drip from mine now.





Edited by Pdok - Jun/01/2018 at 8:31pm
76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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WesternRed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 9:07pm
Pdok, my experience was that you have to disconnect the strut rods from the lower arms (4 bolts) to release any tension there, then the cross member will pull well down and not need to be wedged down. I tried wedging it down like you, but just couldn't get enough clearance. Forgot to mention that above.

Home made engine support:



Cross member well clear, note disconnected pitman arm and would have unbolted the idler arm from the frame as well.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pdok Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 9:16pm
That's much better...I didn't have a puller for the pitman arm and it wouldn't come off without one. Yes, strut rods, forgot about that. You guys are much craftier than I was...
76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 10:22pm
Don’t worry, took me a while to figure out why the cross member wouldn’t drop, then it dawned on me to release the tension from the strut rods
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 11:02pm
Excellent pic there by Western Red & good explanation.

Similar DIY engine lift tool is shown in some Chilton's Repair Manuals... hint hint
Link to XRV8 Race Parts website: http://amcramblermarlin.1colony.com/index.html
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