Oil filter for 61 American ohv 6 ?

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   No need for a lead additive -- what TomJ said!! Lead helps lubricate valve seats, but any added wear is minimal on a regular engine. A highly stressed engine (such as a drag race engine or heavy truck) will exhibit some added wear. If you'd normally have to have a valve job at 100K miles, you will need one in 80-90K instead... not really enough to be concerned about. If/when the seats get worn install hardened seats -- or if you get the head rebuilt it is now relatively inexpensive to have seats installed. Exhaust valves wear quickest and in the past they were typically the only ones replaced, but cost has come down to the point it's not that much to replace intake and exhaust seats. 

It sounds like you might have a master cylinder going bad. By all means flush and replace the fluid then bleed first, but that might not do the trick. Many replacement MCs don't have the fitting under for the brake light switch. That's not a problem -- you can install a T in either brake line for the switch. 

It's not hard to use a momentary switch on the brake pedal. You just need a metal strap (sheet metal is fine -- about 18 gauge or thicker) to hold a momentary switch. You want a normally closed switch so you can mount it on the front side (toward driver) of the pedal. When the pedal is "up" the switch will be open (pressed) and brake lights off. When you touch the pedal the switch closes and lights come on far quicker than the pressure switch and with little pedal movement. I use sheet metal for the mounting strap as it has some flex. You can adjust how quick the lights come on by bending the bracket and letting it "spring" against the brake pedal. That and by the stroke of the switch. A 1968-71 AMC brake light switch is mounted this way, IIRC. That's what I used in my 63 American. A brake light switch will have a little longer stroke than a generic NO momentary switch, but either works fine. 

Just pull the two wires from under the MC and run them into the car to the switch. May have to extend the wires and change the connectors. All the pressure switches I've seen used round "bullet" connectors. 

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farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19679	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/29/2020 at 6:35am
	No need for a lead additive -- what TomJ said!! Lead helps lubricate valve seats, but any added wear is minimal on a regular engine. A highly stressed engine (such as a drag race engine or heavy truck) will exhibit some added wear. If you'd normally have to have a valve job at 100K miles, you will need one in 80-90K instead... not really enough to be concerned about. If/when the seats get worn install hardened seats -- or if you get the head rebuilt it is now relatively inexpensive to have seats installed. Exhaust valves wear quickest and in the past they were typically the only ones replaced, but cost has come down to the point it's not that much to replace intake and exhaust seats. It sounds like you might have a master cylinder going bad. By all means flush and replace the fluid then bleed first, but that might not do the trick. Many replacement MCs don't have the fitting under for the brake light switch. That's not a problem -- you can install a T in either brake line for the switch. It's not hard to use a momentary switch on the brake pedal. You just need a metal strap (sheet metal is fine -- about 18 gauge or thicker) to hold a momentary switch. You want a normally closed switch so you can mount it on the front side (toward driver) of the pedal. When the pedal is "up" the switch will be open (pressed) and brake lights off. When you touch the pedal the switch closes and lights come on far quicker than the pressure switch and with little pedal movement. I use sheet metal for the mounting strap as it has some flex. You can adjust how quick the lights come on by bending the bracket and letting it "spring" against the brake pedal. That and by the stroke of the switch. A 1968-71 AMC brake light switch is mounted this way, IIRC. That's what I used in my 63 American. A brake light switch will have a little longer stroke than a generic NO momentary switch, but either works fine. Just pull the two wires from under the MC and run them into the car to the switch. May have to extend the wires and change the connectors. All the pressure switches I've seen used round "bullet" connectors.
	Frank Swygert

Greggo’61 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Jun/16/2020 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 23	Post Options Post Reply Quote Greggo’61 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/30/2020 at 7:58am
	Good advice, thank you! The brakes are next on the list!

Greggo’61 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Jun/16/2020 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 23	Post Options Post Reply Quote Greggo’61 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/20/2020 at 7:31pm
	Hello again! Unfortunately I haven’t had much time to get into the transmission issue, but I’m back at it now. I was wondering if you would be able to elaborate a little bit about the downshift solenoid. I located it, but my TSM doesn’t say anything about how to take it off. I understand that I need to disconnect the vacuum line, but do I just twist this entire “canister” off with channel locks? And if I get it off, what exactly gets adjusted? The wire connection was really dirty with grease and muck, cleaned it and recovered it. I’m hoping this solenoid is the issue because the car is driving great except it doesn’t want to upshift at cruising speeds. ( feels like at least 3,000 rpms at 45-50 mph). Looking forward to hearing from you thanks!

tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/20/2020 at 11:54pm
	Transmission stuff belongs in another board... it sounds like your transmission cable is not connected to the throttle. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR LIKE THAT you can destroy the transmission in surprisingly short time. YOu really need to buy a factory Technical Service Manual and use that to go through these things... of course we'll all gladly help out as we can. This belongs in another board; but I wanted to get in the warning about destruction ASAP.
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com

Greggo’61 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Jun/16/2020 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 23	Post Options Post Reply Quote Greggo’61 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/21/2020 at 10:51am
	Thank you for the warning. I do have a tsm but it seems pretty vague when it comes to the solenoid. And thanks for the forum advice, I’m a first timer with any forum and a little “ challenged “ when it comes to these things!! Thanks again,