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Oil Dipstick Issue FARNA HELP!

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/12/2017 at 8:20am
I just checked my 63 American TSM right before I read where others have checked. The oil filter is supposed to have an anti-drainback valve, at least the original did, on the 196 OHV and L-head.

Since the actual tube length does affect dipstick length, there could be more than one length. AFAIK all the 196 OHVs and the L-head have the same stick, but might be a difference. I'd compare the two, just remember which came from which engine.

Unless you have enough oil in there that the crank is hitting it and foaming it up, you are fine to run the level a little high. The filter doesn't hold quite a quart, so that may be the issue. As long as you're putting in the correct amount at an oil change I wouldn't worry about it, just don't go below the low mark. Of course as Tom says, these engines are pretty forgiving. If you get an oil light at a hard stop or turn it's low -- put a quart in.  Better to do it BEFORE that happens, but won't hurt the engine under normal driving conditions if you just get that light under hard stops/turns -- not normal stops turns.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Ramble Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/12/2017 at 5:31pm
"[QUOTE=farna] The oil filter is supposed to have an anti-drainback valve, at least the original did, on the 196 OHV and L-head. "

Ah ha. Thank you for that information Farna.
The filters I've been using most likely don't have a drain back valve.
Stands to reason that is why I have the level past the full mark on the dipstick and all the way up to the U in FULL when I do an oil change with 5 quarts.
Never had any foaming.
Never had the oil light glow while driving or braking hard.
Thank you for the clarification.
Best
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/13/2017 at 12:32am
i never thought to look in the TSM for how to check oil level! i always wait, since oil flies around etc and lines the inside of the tube and makes it hard to read.

i admit also i did not check the TSM on the anti-drainback thing, i thought i had tested one before, but clearly i was wrong. i have a NAPA/Wix 1050 filter and just checked it and yes, it has a one-way valve in it. i wond erwhy it does though; the usual reason for anti-drainback is because the oil flow is pump --> filter --> main gallery and an empty filter would mean a delay while it filled, starving the engine of oil at startup. but on a bypass system the filter has nothing to do with oiling, it just steals a little of it.

this past weekend i did a 600 mile rally, all mountain/canyon roads, 40 - 60 mph hard turns all day, and i logged four dry-pickup events, pressure fell to zero, all under a second long. i didn't attempt to baffle the pan, wish i had. i wish also i had made more attempt to determine crank to sump clearance etc.

i do have the tube and dipstick from the 65 handy, will try to measure it tomorrow. saturday we take off for 10 days vacation.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ruby loye Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/13/2017 at 5:50am
Okay,

I know Frank knows his stuff, but let's get real here folks, oil dip stick reading is more of an approximate measure than an actual one.  Per se you do have and  are using the correct filter, and it reads at or near normal, theres your answer, it is not an exact science. I remember years ago when my old wagon was purposely ran with out oil, it took nearly 200 miles before thermal  meltdown occurred. You can be diligent, but not accurate.

Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/13/2017 at 11:35am
That's what I was alluding to Ruby. I did say not to let it go below the low mark, but that is just a good rule of thumb. It's not going to grenade if it's a bit low. Has to be at least a couple quarts low for the light to come on! At the low mark it should be about a quart low... on most cars anyway.

The filter used on the top mount 196 (65 has filter on pump) is an industrial engine filter. It's commonly used on the engines that run refer units on trailers. Car Quest over here does a lot of industrial parts sales and usually has them in stock, no one else does (well, the big NAPA does, but they are the regional warehouse too, and 30 miles away). So truck stops and such may have them in stock if you need one in a hurry. But any of the parts stores can order them. I used to get 2-3 at a time when I was running a 196 as a daily driver. Changed oil every six months (6-7K a year on average). Don't know if those industrial engines need an anti-drain back valve or not, but I would assume Nash made the system to use an off the shelf filter when they introduced it back in 56 or so. There were aftermarket systems from around 1923 (Purolator filter system was patented in 1923) they were all partial flow of course.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/13/2017 at 10:20pm
I think I got it from the Rockauto site that the Hastings LF117, Fram PB50, Wix 51050 and Motorcraft FL3 filters all fit that engine. Of the four the only one that may have an ADV is the Mororcraft FL3 because the other's specs say they do not. I always used the Fram PB50. I suppose it would be better if it had an  ADV because it would take a while to fill it up at every start up but with the small 3/16 line going to it the oil pump probably had more than enough capacity to also supply the other parts, even before the filter was full. Funny thing, when removing that PB50 I don't remember a lot of oil pouring out of it. Maybe it had already drained into the pan.
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