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OIl Blends Attn: Tomj

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RonFrancis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RonFrancis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: OIl Blends Attn: Tomj
    Posted: Apr/29/2017 at 3:58pm
I was reading a thread last night on oil types and no that  have my oil in front of me I can't find it.  I called Quaker State and one other brand and both recommend the QUAKER STATE DEFY.  "It helps with higher mileage engines defy time.  It contains Boosted Zinc  for extra protection on high wear surfaces.  Stops up to 98% future wear."

"Synthetic Blend motor oil SAE 10W-30"-  I read all that off the lable.

 I have to say my newly rebuilt 196.5/ currently 200 doesn't burn a drop. 

By the way TomJ, I asked my builder what cam I had.  It means nothing to me, maybe you could explain it in english?

CAM LIFT= lift: .390 in. .396 ex. Dur.@.050 202 in. 206 ex. Lobe C/L. 108°

I was having different idleing problems with my NEW Weber 38DGES that no one could figiure.  Turns out after a complete tear down we found 2 curly cues of aluminum from the original machining of the carb.  Amazining what those little pieces were doing.  running very good now.   Redline had sent it new with 143 idle jets which after experimentation have been raised to 155.  I spoke with them this week and they want me to try 160 and 165s they are sending.              

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/30/2017 at 8:43pm
I recommend Quaker State Defy 10W30 and personally use it in my own cars. It does have higher ZDDP (~900 PPM). Though that isn't as high as some other oils, it is plenty for a stock engine with a mild cam profile and valve spring pressures. It also has lower detergent levels than most other modern oils, which helps the ZDDP work, and keeps this oil from stripping away too much of the "grime layer" that keeps old engines from leaking. It's actually formulated more like the oils of yesteryear that these engines were designed for.

I ran Castrol 5W50 synthetic for YEARS before switching to the Quaker State Defy for a whole host of reasons. The Castrol is a fine oil as well, just don't run it longer than 5000 miles.


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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/30/2017 at 8:57pm
i'm hardly a cam expert, but since there's so little variation possible with this little lawnmower cam we're stuck with i can tell you this much... lift is a bit higher than stock, i'm too lazy to go open the TSM but the duration (how long the cam is open, for each otto cycle) is likely longer by a bit too, and both help it fill/empty cylinders faster, but nothing radical, and maybe not particularly noticable.

lobe separation angle would probably be what makes the biggest change in feel all other things being equal (and they will be with this cam, since very little change is possible since all 195.6 cams are regrinds). if you don't have that spec, then it's probably stock, which i think is about 112 degrees. that will have high idle vacuum, and a nice broad torque curve vs. rpm.

you should google cam stuff, hotrod.com isn't too bad. basically if the intake opens then closes, and then the exhaust opens and closes, so that only one is open at a time, the other fully closed, that would be "zero overlap". low overlap cams will idle smooth as a baby with very high vacuum. a cam with "a lot" of overlap has that well known lopey, rough idle, very low idle vacuum, and a larger amount of low end torque, often suffering slightly at higher rpm (which is less an issue with these engines). 

others here would know more (the V8 folk probably a LOT more) but i think 108 degree LSA would be noticeably lopey, and fairly lousy vaccuum at idle (forget those vacuum wipers :-)

my new cam is only .383" lift, i think so it could be ground with 110 degree LSA (only so much metal on the stick left to grind). the idle is a little odd... but i've not started tuning it, i just stuck richer jets in it and drove it,  while i was sorting out other stuff. idle vaccuum is about 13 - 14 InHg, a lot lower than the 18 it was on the previous cam.




Edited by tomj - Apr/30/2017 at 9:00pm
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/30/2017 at 8:59pm
oh, i'm running 155 and 155 jets, pri and sec, in my 32/36. i'd tuned it "by the book" (the Pat Braden book, get a copy if you don't ahve one) and when i put a wideband AFR meter on the car, it was remarkably close to correct! a bit lean at WOT and right after throttle "tip in". i had 140/150 in it, just enrichened to shake it all down. 

i'm not going to tune this carb, i'm gonna get a 38/38 and put my effort there.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2017 at 1:14am
Originally posted by RonFrancis RonFrancis wrote:

 

By the way TomJ, I asked my builder what cam I had.  It means nothing to me, maybe you could explain it in english?

CAM LIFT= lift: .390 in. .396 ex. Dur.@.050 202 in. 206 ex. Lobe C/L. 108°



While I do not have cam specifications for your OEM application where I can reach them easily from my computer, by looking your specifications as given up in my Iskenderian catalog I would have to say by comparison your cam is factory stock or close enough to it, that no difference can be identified.
If this helps any.
I can say from building in line six cylinder engines that a change in cam and a carburetor that is spec'd out closer to what the engine can use are two items that make a significant difference in how the engine runs.
In so many 6 cylinder applications both items are so poorly specified for how the engine is used that the engine works so hard to get things going the efficiency just goes down the toilet.
I built a MOPAR 225 many years ago and it was used in a full sized Plymouth 2 door hard top. When done not only was performance a factor but my commute fuel economy went from something like 12 mpg due to the weight of the car to close to 20 mpg. And that was using a 400 CFM 4bbl carb. The engine was far more efficient modified than it could ever be from OEM configuration.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RonFrancis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2017 at 6:47am
Speaking of idle, the car now idles really smooth.  Once I drop it in gear, it shakes and shimmys.  The automatic was rebuilt by a really great outfit so I doubt that is the problem.  With no vacuum lines or any other engine to trans connections, I was wondering if my flex plate might be failing?  Driving down the road is smooth too, just low idle in gear.

Your thoughts?
Ron Francis
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pacerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2017 at 10:31am
Ron, I would suggest you use a vacuum gauge and try to tune the car for best manifold at idle. With someone holding the brake see if vacuum is steady at idle in gear. Even a small vacuum leak at idle or a misadjusted valve can cause rough idle at low rpm. Then adjust the idle for peak vacuum reading and richen it just a hair from peak. Joe
Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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