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Odds and ends with the old harness

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DaemonForce View Drop Down
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    Posted: Oct/12/2017 at 11:39pm
Today I parsed through my Eagle's OEM ignition harness to find connections to salvage, which lead to me having more questions than answers.

When I took a closer look at the wire running from the solenoid to a splice back into FW(TO IGN SW), I noticed a print on this maroon faded rubbery wire that states RESISTANCE WIRE DO NOT CUT OR SPLICE. Why is there a resistance wire in this section and what does it signify? The connector it links to has a solid yellow cable from the joining on the solenoid to coil +12v so what is the purpose of this?

Some of the connections I have on the bulkhead connector go nowhere. There is an auxiliary yellow wire that runs from the firewall to the oil pressure switch and shares to the electronic choke, leading back to my oil pressure gauge but the DY bulkhead connection for the oil warning lamp goes to a 6-circuit snap-in that joins into NOTHING on the other connector. I'm also trying to figure out how the emission warn lamp gets triggered before I make any attempts to truncate it into a new MIL. Help? Ouch

DT is the long primary +12v bulkhead connection powering trailer lamps, rear defogger, radio and backup lamps. It's an interesting factory wire that snakes across the engine bay with numerous aesthetically sound fusible links going to a booted alternator ring, solenoid input, horn relay, what I assume to be the old ignition relay equivalent of IGN/SW ON, a pigtail for the alternator charge lamp and what I see is a taped non-fused repair connection that goes back to the solenoid trigger. I'm thinking that last part would have the 7th natural fusible link in this cobweb but all I have is a poorly taped repair. I would love to reuse this wire with minimal modification but I'm seeing some insulation failures and get the feeling this is the source of old electrical drama with the factory 258 dying at stop signs, intermittent failures when trying to crank and random shutoffs in front of big trucks on single lane stretches of freeway(insanely scary). What is the best way to check this for continuity failures and should this be reused with my simplified EFI harness and plans for future upgrades that may require better current? Is there a way to manufacture a new +12v primary wire without a bunch of ugly butt connected fuses and how can I keep my alternator warning lamp now that I have an externally regulated alternator?

CY and EY are paired +12v connections triple fused to the bulkhead from the solenoid input made to power the ignition switch again(redundant connection?) and bring +12v to the headlamps. I'm probably going to reuse this connection but I have a nice thick 10AWG cable from my Cherokee harness that looks like a more than decent replacement connection for lights. Problem is I'm already reducing that draw requirement with an all LED rollout, which may make a bigger wire upgrade pointless. Which pinout would make the most sense for using this giant cable?

Next is the air conditioner trigger. I opted NOT to wire this to the computer to keep the dash connections in tact but I now recognize this to be a loooong wire with the stud socket pigtail going back to an ignition module pigtail and back to the bulkhead. What was the middle man here and does it make more sense to simply wire it direct from A/C clutch back to the bulkhead?

Backup lamps are something I've never had to mess with but after a manual swap I'm looking at the twin stud pigtail and I'm wondering if the orientation of this matters. +12v in, 12v out to backup lamps. Is there any point in wiring up a neutral safety switch? How would I do it?
1971 Javelin SST
American 304 2v | FMX | AM20-3.31

1983 American Limited
Jeep 4(.7)L S-MPFI | 1982 NWC T-5M (4.03/.76) | Dana30IFS/35-2.72
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