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javelinman74 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote javelinman74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Not Good!
    Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 10:44am
Added oil yesterday to my 82 Concord 4spd wagon, 258cid, as it has a valve cover leak that prevents rust.  When I get the Eagle SX/4 on the road is when I'll do the gasket... unless since I found white goo on the cap so I have water in the oil!?!

It has been running great!  114,000 miles. After having the carb rebuilt, all vacuum hoses attached where they should and should not be, and another distributor cap as the coil contact in the old one fell off???  The little button wasn't there.

It has been starting right up, running great as I mentioned, getting 19mgp (on the road trips loaded down I got 29mpg!  Bout a month or so back it began to hard start.  Not always without touching the pedal, sometimes touching the pedal once, or cranking and pumping until it starts.  Once warmed up it's all fine for the day.

I have also been smelling raw gas, and cannot find anyplace that it is leaking from.  When yesterday after putting the oil in it would not start.  Will add some gas to it today and see IF it will start, as fuel gauge works half way then bottoms out, and have to add 200 miles before fill up.

So head gasket?  Cracked head?  Thoughts?
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Richard

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tufcj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote tufcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 11:31am
Could just be condensate in the crankcase. Lots of short trips in cold weather? Take it out and get it to normal operating temp, then drive it a while. If nothing is wrong, the water will evaporate and the "white goo" will go away.

Bob
tufcj
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javelinman74 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote javelinman74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 11:58am
Thanks!
It is my daily driver (as all have been since 1995) so it gets used daily and a lot of use.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 12:43pm
Don't them 82's have them temperamental carbs with electric gizmos and such. UnclJohn would complain about them carbs. Billd may have some knowledge with them. I assume it is carb related. I have had a terrible issue at one time with smelling gas while driving and could not find a leak. Knew my carb was due for a rebuild, but wanted more than my stock 2bbl. Once I replaced it with new, no more gas smell.
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javelinman74 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote javelinman74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 1:03pm
Temperamental after 40 years, I have rebuilt a couple and good for another 30.  This was just rebuilt and all the other work mentioned from my new mechanic, who also owns 2 Eagles, he's the best I've had.  Did the same with the Pacer and it's also perfect for my wife.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 2:00pm
After some searching... i found some info that may help.

There is an electronic feedback valve and stepper motor setup on the 82 carbs. Since the ECU controls the carb function you may have a loose connection, as you have stated the carb was rebuilt not too long ago. Also if using the old valve and stepper motor, it is possible they have gone bad.

Here is a link for more info.

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/amc/eagle/bypass.htm
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78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 7:02pm
As described, this sounds like a flooding condition.

-may not be the mechanic's fault at all; could be the 'new school gas'
see EPA.gov website on ethanol regulations

-make sure the fuel filter is in good condition... sometimes they are not 100% E10 compatible and the filter element inside the canister can detach from the casing/adhesive apparently lets go

-if no cure with new filter, test carb for internal leaks by removing carb, fill float bowl 3/4 full, place in clean white bucket, come back in three hours to see if it leaked fuel into the bucket ...if it's leaking raw fuel  internally there should be an obvious sign of leakage in the bucket ...if yes, this indicates a seeping or ruptured diaphragm in the carb > this would be leaking fuel into the intake manifold plenum and causing a similar flooding condition as if it were a stuck float

-solution rebuild, carb put in new diaphragm (assuming the carb has one to replace)

... any back fire condition can help rupture a vacuum operated carburetor diaphragm also (can't blame it all on E10 gasohol?)

On a side note... In my experience, the E10 gasohol vapors tend to rot out the vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor also... check by temporarily removing vacuum hose (plug that hose to vacuum source) and note idle speed up or down (could be idle retard diaphragm on distributor instead of vacuum advance)

hope it helps/make your own good luck (keep trying!)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 7:21pm
The gas thing is the only issue I would be worried about. Check the carb for internal leaks. Failing that, idle the car for a minute and move it forward like 12ft to find where it marks its territory. Proceed from there. Ermm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tached_out Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 9:08pm
Unless you pulled the dip stick and found the oil to be milky, you have nothing to worry about. 

Like tufcj said, It's condensation. A properly working PCV system and a good highway blast would help against this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2017 at 7:50am
To make sure you don't have a leak you could get the cooling system pressure tested. Isn't there a tool for that?

If your fuel tank is pressurizing when it shouldn't then fuel may bypass the carburetor. I had that problem with another vehicle because the supplied replacement cap was not the right one.
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