|
|
|
Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
No disc brake options |
Post Reply 
|
Page 123 4> |
| Author | |
IowaTom 
AMC Nut 
Joined: Mar/07/2018 Location: Kent Washington Status: Offline Points: 448 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Topic: No disc brake optionsPosted: Apr/26/2018 at 10:39am |
|
The helpful gentleman at Scarebird said I would have to bend part of the steering arms of my '59 Rambler to accommodate their disc setup and I really don't want to do that.
 Has anyone found another source for AMC discs?
|
|
 |
|
|
304-dude
AMC Addicted
Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/26/2018 at 10:55am |
|
I wonder if... the spindle attachment bolt hole pattern is the same for later spindles. If so, you can use 70 on up drum spindles or use 70 on up cut brackets as spacers to slightly space out for clearance.
I have a pair of brackets that can be trimmed for where the steering arm would mount, so if the pattern is the same, it can be mounted in between your spindle and strut turn knuckle face. |
|
|
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
|
|
|
|
Ramblage
AMC Addicted
Joined: Apr/29/2008 Location: Fresno, Ca Status: Offline Points: 706 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/26/2018 at 11:48am |
|
Their basic setup will work and no you don’t have to bend the steering arm which is a big no no since it messes with steering geometry. I have the setup on my 59 and 60 big car and bolted right up.
|
|
|
1960 Customized Land Barge Rambler Super with Dodge 360 & 5spd
1971 Silver Bullet Javelin w/232 Engyne! 1972 Crappy Green Javelin w/401 and AW4, still in the works |
|
|
|
|
IowaTom
AMC Nut
Joined: Mar/07/2018 Location: Kent Washington Status: Offline Points: 448 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/26/2018 at 5:02pm |
|
Wonder why the gentleman at Scarebird didn't offer his basic setup... unless it's no longer available. Surely he would have known it'd fit my application.
|
|
|
|
|
billd
Moderator Group 
Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/26/2018 at 5:56pm |
|
What do you plan on doing to/with it that you'd go to disc?
Yeah disc are indeed "better" but............... You'd be amazed at the street rods that get built with good drum brakes. In fact, a 49 Ford that hits the salt flats every year now has AMC front drum brakes on it (and a T5, etc.) In any case, it's REALLY SCARY when someone like that actually recommends BENDING suspension and steering parts. Seriously?? Bend? Hmmm, no way in #%#^ That would worry me about other support. If you would actually have to bend anything to make it fit, I'd go to a different option and not bother with 'em again. Bending will not only change the geometry but will typically weaken those parts as well, especially if bent be someone not familiar with metallurgy.
If you go the disc route, work with an AMC person who has done the conversion without hacking, bending and cutting. Parts are made as they are for a reason, not because they had a lot of extra steel or lack of engineers. |
|
|
|
|
rms827
AMC Nut
Joined: Apr/18/2018 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 378 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/26/2018 at 6:08pm |
What he said. Bending and cutting suspension parts is bad juju. |
|
|
1964 AMC Rambler Classic 660
"You can think I'm an idiot, just don't talk to me like I'm one." - Batman |
|
|
|
|
IowaTom
AMC Nut
Joined: Mar/07/2018 Location: Kent Washington Status: Offline Points: 448 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/27/2018 at 3:53am |
|
I totally agree... Runs along the same mentality of; if it doesn't fit, hit it with a bigger hammer. Duh!
|
|
|
|
|
tomj
AMC Addicted
Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/28/2018 at 1:48am |
|
i'm generally a fan of drums. you can make them work great. "late model" (lol) drum setups bolt right on -- i used 9 x 2.5" setups from a 70's gremlin. they should clear the steering arms. i did this on 63 and 61 americans; they have a similar design arm that reaches into the wheel.
if you want to get fancy you can make them pretty much as good as discs. its old hot-rod technique, i found it in the C H Topping website. here's mine http://sr-ix.com/AMC/1963-Rambler-American/Drums/ |
|
|
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
|
|
|
|
IowaTom
AMC Nut
Joined: Mar/07/2018 Location: Kent Washington Status: Offline Points: 448 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/28/2018 at 6:27am |
|
Very interesting, Tom!
My enthusiasm for drum brakes died when mine faded while coming down a hill in my '57 Stude sedan a number of years ago. There was a stop sign at the bottom and I blew thru it like Steve McQueen in "Bullitt". It was a trouser-chili moment! |
|
|
|
|
Red Devil
AMC Addicted
Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1743 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/28/2018 at 11:52am |
|
People often overlook pad/shoe compound, blame fade on the braking system, spend a bunch of money to fit a different system and end up not much better or worse if they don't select the right pad compound for the application.
Fade is essentially a drop in pad/shoe friction because you've exceeded the temperature range of the pads in your application. Solution: Fit pads or shoes with a higher temperature range (typically most economical option) or change the braking system to one that can absorb more energy with less temperature rise to maintain friction coefficient. Energy transfer is most effective with a high delta-T, so a system that works effectively at low temperatures needs to be bigger. That's one reason why OEM's have fit larger diameter discs ... and that small discs don't look right with current trend to 18" or larger diameter wheels. There are a few manufacturers making shoes for both high-performance street use and racing. Porterfield R4-S is their street compound and a much higher temperature range than typical parts store replacements. They also have race compounds for vintage cars racing with drums. If you can't find a suitable disc kit and don't want to develop your own, suggest get a set of R4-S shoes (Porterfield can make virtually any replacement pad or shoe as long as they can source, or you can provide, a suitable backing plate). If fitting a disc kit, suggest to check pad availability to make sure pads are available to suit a wide variety of applications, if planning more than street use. GM D52 or D154 are good economical options with lots of pad options as used in many lower levels of racing and for millions of GM and other cars and trucks (Jeep also used D52 calipers). Hope this helps,RD Edited by Red Devil - Apr/28/2018 at 12:05pm |
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
Page 123 4> |
Tweet
|
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
Click for TheAMCForum Rules
Topic Options
billd wrote: