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New Clutch Questions for AMX 1968 - 390

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    Posted: Jul/09/2007 at 3:17am
I am planning on redoing my AMX's drive trane this winter so I want to get together a sort of shopping list of things to get and such.  Overall I will be changing the clutch, having the Borg Warner T10 checked out and probably as a minimum replacing the drive shaft's universal joints and more likely changing the entire drive shaft.  The diff is fine and solid as it is.
 
So let's start with the clutch.
 
I suppose, I need to get a clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing, fork boot....  Anything else to this list?  ie: bolts... pins... etc.
 
Also what type of clutch and manufacturer would you all suggest.
 
This is not a drag car and I do not want a really heavy clutch pedal nor a drag type IN/OUT clutch.
 
As always your thoughts, and suggestions are very welcome.
 
Thanks
Art in CT
 
Art In Connecticut

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1968 AMX 390 4-Speed

1991 ERA Cobra Replica - 428 & Toploader

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kirkwood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/09/2007 at 4:02am
art,

sounds like a stock replacement clutch kit would work best for you. Any vendor should be able to get one, or possibly local stores. No pins to worry about, but I'd suggest a new set of clutch cover bolts. I'm thinking they are 3/8-24 like many muscle cars. I have used them from ARP and I think it was a pontiac application.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/09/2007 at 5:37am
I like the Centerforce Dual Friction.  Not cheap but VERY light pedal feel and it will not slip even with considerably more power than your setup.  Pedal force with the CF DF will be like a new Civic or similar- pure pleasure.  And it behaves like a stock clutch as far as easy to drive- it is not on-off.
 
Have the flywheel resurfaced and use all new hardware.  Flywheel bolts are, IIRC, 1/2-20 and pontiac works but they are slightly longer.  Seems like pressure plate bolts are 3/8-16?  I matched both bolts up with some by Mr Gasket/ARP at the parts store.
 
Not sure why you'd want to change the entire driveshaft?
 
edit: kennedy or APD should have the boot.  On the throwout arm, they should also be available from either vendor but are slightly different from the OE piece as far as cosmetics.  Check out the pins on the bellcrank as well.  You can get a replacement bellcrank or have a little welding/grinding done on the pins.


Edited by Steve_P - Jul/09/2007 at 5:39am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 12Gauge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/09/2007 at 6:24am
Guys, yes I would have the flywheel blanchard ground or resurfaced.
 
The Centerforce sounds good.  Looking at Summit for the 1968 AMX there are quite a few choices for the Centerforce.  I shall have to call Centerforce to sort this out and figure out which one is the best.
 
The driveshaft is sound but there is some surface rust so I figured that if I was going to do this I would get a nice aluminum one fabbed up.  I have not priced it though.
Art In Connecticut

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xracer390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/09/2007 at 11:57am
     I am going to use the Centerforce clutch in my 68 AMX but have seen problems with them 2 times in high HP high RPM applications. The weights that help add pressure can get off center and cause an out of balance of the rotating assy.
 
    This problem was found by 2 different shops on 2 different motors (both chevy) and both motors were spinning over 6,000 RPM for extended periods.
 
                          BB


Edited by xracer390 - Jul/09/2007 at 11:58am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/09/2007 at 1:34pm
I'll agree w/ kirkwood & SteveP................
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/10/2007 at 5:31am
I also agree with kirkwood & steve p.
I have had a centerforce df clutch in my 69 amx for the past 4 years with no trouble. one thing I can add is the pressure plate bolts are still available from your local chrysler/dodge/jeep dealership the part # is 6035626 they retail for $3.50ea. Not sure if they will work, but I also looked up flywheel bolts for an 84' grand waggy v-8 part # j3151407 $3.25ea these are also still available from d/c.


Edited by Brek - Jul/10/2007 at 5:31am
69' amx best et so far 12.06 @ 115 mph
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 12Gauge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/10/2007 at 5:42am
Breck:
When you installed the Centerforce DF (Dual Friction) clutch, did you use the CenterForce Throw Out Bearing?  Did you replace your clutch throwout lever, lever ball and bearing washer?
 
Did you need an alignment tool for the clutch?  Does one come with it?
 
Did you resurface you flywheel?  Or go with a new one?
 
Are there any parts that I should think about changing whilst I am doing the clutch replacement?  I would do the rubber Lever gasket as mine is SNAFU now.
 
Thanks
Art In Connecticut

Nothing Lasts Forever... If you give it enough TIME

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1991 ERA Cobra Replica - 428 & Toploader

2016 Tesla P90D with Ludicrous Mode

2011 Volvo XC60
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/10/2007 at 6:22am
Not brek, but I used a CF DF for several yrs...
Yes, I used the bearing from CF but you can buy one locally.  CF does not make the bearings, nor does Hays, etc.  Make sure you get the correct one for a 68-9; 70+ is different. 
edit: actually the CF might use a different style bearing than stock as it's a diaphragm design and stock is B&B.  Still you must specify you have a 68.
 
I had wear on the lever and welded/ground the pins.  Same on the bellcrank.  The ball does not wear.  Not sure what you mean by bearing washer.
 
Yes you need an alignment tool and no it doesn't come with it unless they started including them recently.  I have a universal clutch alignment tool kit by KD or another tool mfg; you should be able to get one at napa.  It uses replacable mandrels so one tool will work for many cars.
 
Resurfaced.
 
I can't remember the price, but I'm sure the MrGasket or ARP bolts I bought were much cheaper than $3 ea bolt.  But that was 10 yrs ago, so?


Edited by Steve_P - Jul/10/2007 at 6:26am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/10/2007 at 6:43am
Yes I used a new cf bearing, No I did not replace the lever or ball. But I did have to replace the short inside spring.
 
No alignment tool was supplied, I had an old input shaft out of my t-10.
 
Yes I used a new hayes billt flywheel (I also had the engine internally balanced). Unless you plan on doing some engine work I would just have your flywheel resurfaced. The hayes billet flywheel costed me $350 and another $100 to have it neutral balanced at the machineshop. If you need a new flywwheel you could buy any of them out there and have it match balanced to your existing one.


Edited by Brek - Jul/10/2007 at 6:45am
69' amx best et so far 12.06 @ 115 mph
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