|
|
|
Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
Need help with an engine problem |
Post Reply 
|
Page <1 2345> |
| Author | |
Boris Badanov 
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4209 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Posted: Apr/19/2014 at 12:38pm |
|
Re-build it or buy a late 360.
Chrysler did a nice job manufacturing them and they are still common. I believe the last two years the 360 is a 5.9L? Cast into the block that way :-) 1991 or maybe 1992 is the last year of manfacture. I still see those grand wagoneers in bone yards. |
|
|
Gremlin Dreams
|
|
 |
|
|
Xplorer
AMC Apprentice 
Joined: Jun/07/2013 Location: Sellersville PA Status: Offline Points: 40 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/22/2014 at 3:33pm |
|
It was suggested that I plastigage the rods and mains. Stupid question, but do I do that with the bearings that are presently in the engine? I looked it up on youtube and understand the how & why. Very interesting. I also measured the bore at the top of the cylinder and came up with 4.0720, is that the stock bore? I figured that I should replace the connecting rod bearings and rings if I'm gonna remove the engine to clean and check it for fruther damage.
|
|
|
|
|
Peter D
AMC Apprentice
Joined: Feb/24/2014 Location: Webster NY Status: Offline Points: 36 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/22/2014 at 4:36pm |
|
Plastigage with the new bearings. I would clean the journals with some 1200 sand paper as though your buffing a shoe even and once or twice around wipe clean install bearing dry no oil and measure clearance no need to torque just snug. If your clearance is correct, oil journal well re-install bearings and torque to spec. This is my way, and never had a problem. Before installing heads oil cylinders well, before intake, oil the valley and lifters. It wouldn't hurt to place each lifter in a soup can 2/3 filled with oil and pump up the lifters with a round end like rachet extention. I also like to spin the oil pump thru the distributor opening using a drill this is not necessary, just don't start the engine before cranking for several seconds. Good Luck
|
|
|
peter d
|
|
|
|
|
Peter D
AMC Apprentice
Joined: Feb/24/2014 Location: Webster NY Status: Offline Points: 36 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/22/2014 at 5:23pm |
|
An after thought, lightly wipe some oil on the bearing of the cap, this will help so the plastigage doesn't stick to the bearing. measure off the journal and wipe clean.
|
|
|
peter d
|
|
|
|
|
White70JavelinSST
Supporter of TheAMCForum 
Joined: Aug/08/2012 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 4867 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/23/2014 at 8:51am |
|
Read the technical service manual on rebuilt engine start up, it outlines a procedure for packing the oil pump with petrolatum before starting the engine. Many engine assembly lubes will work just as well. The first few seconds and minutes of life for a new engine can be very critical.
Armand
|
|
|
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
|
|
|
|
|
Boris Badanov
AMC Addicted
Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4209 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/23/2014 at 11:31am |
|
When I first started a rebuilt motor I used an electric drill to prime the oil pump.
Then, after finishing assembly I ran my re-builds on the starter with the plugs
out and coil disconnected for a few dozen rotations after full oil pressure was
reached.
|
|
|
Gremlin Dreams
|
|
|
|
|
Xplorer
AMC Apprentice
Joined: Jun/07/2013 Location: Sellersville PA Status: Offline Points: 40 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/23/2014 at 2:34pm |
|
all good advise, but I haven't even got the engine out yet.
|
|
|
|
|
Xplorer
AMC Apprentice
Joined: Jun/07/2013 Location: Sellersville PA Status: Offline Points: 40 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Apr/24/2014 at 4:07pm |
|
Finally found my technical service manual and see that the 343 is 4.080, so I guess it's a build up ridge at the top of the cylinders. Should I hone this off when I get it apart, or leave it alone?
|
|
|
|
|
Xplorer
AMC Apprentice
Joined: Jun/07/2013 Location: Sellersville PA Status: Offline Points: 40 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: May/14/2014 at 6:09am |
|
Ok, engine is apart. Do I used oil on the honing stones, or dry. High speed or slow? The inside of the engine looks new and journels measure out like new also. Some good news at least.
|
|
|
|
|
uncljohn
AMC Addicted
Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: May/14/2014 at 6:29am |
|
Looking on the internet for this almost every thing is recommended, the honing oil is used to "Flush" away the residue from the honing operation and keep the honing materials clean. Recommendations include honing oil (extremely pricy but available) through motor oil various weights, kerosene and variations including mineral oils which crop up a lot.
Based on my working with machinists, I would suggest ATF as a substitute. This is what machinists I used to know would suggest in lieu of having cutting oil available. however other than actual honing oil, I have a feeling that lacking actual honing oil a lot of different products would be recommended depending on who answered. Once done wipe down with motor oil. |
|
|
70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
Page <1 2345> |
Tweet
|
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
Click for TheAMCForum Rules
Topic Options