Need help with an engine problem

Liberal use of oil in that cylinder prior to starting would be wise. As long as the engine turns free by hand you will be ok. The rings actuall ride the cylinder wall with the top ring as the first line of compression then backed up by the second thereafter the oil ring. Honed properly there should be no loss of compression or oil burning. No matter what it will run fine.  Good Luck

Sorry to say but that thing may run, but it will have a short smokey life.

Xplorer wrote: I think I've done this correctly, if so, here is a picture of the cylinder: http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a509/69javelin343/DSC00782_zps360915f4.jpg - http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a509/69javelin343/DSC00782_zps360915f4.jpg

That looks better than I thought it would.  I'll bet a pop that a couple passes with a hone and that won't look so bad.  Yeah, it won't be pristine, but it won't look that bad.

Let me throw one caution at this point......Before you take anything more apart, buy some PlastiGage and pull one main and one rod and see what it looks like....before ordering any parts.  I have re-built alot of these vintage AMC engines, most are sound to begin with and your does look very salvagable with minor parts.....I would check two things...Is there a plastic timing gear still installed??  If so IT MUST be replaced!!  That would be a factory gear and it is not wear as much as time on the gear is not kind...IT WILL BREAK.  Second, Pull the cam out and look at the Cam Bearings...and look for silver flakes in the oil pan or the pick up.  90% of original engines I tear down have major parts of the Cam Bearings missing...this is a giant loss of oil pressure.  I have taken alot of original AMC engines over the years, pulled pan, cleaned the pick up thoroughly, replaced the cam bearings, timing chain, inspected (not replaced) mains and rods......valve stem seals, clean and fresh paint and drove for alot of miles.   Check your heads for the presence of valve stem seal (really umbrellas), usually they are in the pan too!!!   This is a cake walk back to running.......the cylinder pic is much better then I was thinkning too.....flat hone and back together, the key is clean everything adn careful assembly.  I buy alot of Rock Auto Parts, as long as it in name brand kit you are fine, they always are offering me a 5% discount...just google it and it works everytime!!!!!  Just let me know if I can help.

I guess I should note, I have a new chain, gears, cam, and lifters that I was not going to use when I first started this. About 10 yrs ago I was offered a coupon to redo my heads (I think it was for a valve job). It ended up a complete job (guides, springs, valves,etc.) When I took off the heads I had planned to do a complete engine job. In the time it took to completely redo the heads I had acquired the AMX and at that point the poor Javelin just sat in my garage. That's when the mice moved in. 8 or so years later I sold the AMX (needed money/laid off). It took a year or 2 for the bug to bite, and that's where I am now with the rust in the cylinder. I don't want to waste another engine since I wasted a completely rebuilt 343 in this car about 15yrs ago. The engines are getting harder to find and don't want to waste it or what money I do have. sorry for the long post.