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my religion is better than yours: Mobil1 oil zinc

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PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2019 at 3:42pm
LOL ! ...  see?
Uh, old dino oil had Zinc in it and somehow Zinc "makes" flat tappet lifters "survive"
rubbing metal against metal under pressure from the valve springs
even though lifters do rotate slightly with each actuation due to
a slight slope on the cam lobe and a slight crown on the lifter bottom.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2019 at 5:06pm
Yeh, if you have ever inspected an old cam that survived the engine wearing out on mileage you will see the taper still on part of the small diameter of the lobes and the top of the lobes worn completely to match the lifter.
That is why the cam lobe has to be as wide or just a little wider then the bottom of the lifter. Otherwise the lobe just digs into the lifter and all @#@%$ breaks loose eventually.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2019 at 9:42pm
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

Everyone reads this thread and says, "Another oil thread? Nope, not touching it."


lol.

TOUCH IT! I DARE YOU!



i'm sure you're right. in my defense i'll say i only posted cuz i found hard data on Zn/P content of Mobil1. dunno why that was hard to find but it was.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2019 at 10:41pm
the earth really is flat, but only when you turn your back and no one's looking. PROVE ME WRONG.

i dunno why cam houses say no synthetic, what do they say the reason is? i'd follow their instructions at least for break-in. it's been 30 years since synthetic (so-called) lubricants were "controversial" though. every new car with demanding requirements (turbos) requires synth oil. spec-wise it's better in all ways.

our older engines are built to broader tolerances and bigger clearances and tend to run thicker oils. new cars run tiny clearances and better metallurgy and better temperature control etc and are built to run thin oils that would kill ours.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote motorhead_1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2019 at 11:15pm
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

Yes it is, 1/4 mile at a time!
nice!Thumbs Up
69 SC/Rambler tribute 401/th400, 68 Rebel SST LSA, 66 F100 460/c6, 88 Merkur Xr4Ti, 71 Jaguar XJ6 LS1, 08 Supercharged Tundra
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/26/2019 at 3:19am
"You can't mix conventional and synthetic or your engine will explode."

"You can't break an engine in on synthetic or it'll explode."

"You can't mix oils of different viscosity or your engine will explode."

...I broke my 258 in on a mixture of every random partial quart of oil I had sitting on the shelf in my garage. There was conventional, synthetic, Pennzoil, Castrol, Havoline, Valvoline, 5W30, 5W50, 10W30, 10W40....all mixed in there, plus a bottle of ZDDP additive. I broke it in and drove it the first 800 miles on that. It runs perfectly. It leaks from nowhere. It did not explode. Why put good oil in an engine that is breaking in? It's going to make a ton of little metal shavings no matter what and you'll be changing the oil soon anyway. Put cheap stuff in it. Great opportunity to burn up all those random quarts sitting on the shelf since 2003.

I've also put synthetic into old sludged up high mileage engines and run them for thousands of miles. No worse leaks, no oil screen clogging, no explosion, supernova, death, or armaggeddon. They just ran...as they always have...and were still gunky when I decided to rebuild them for the fun of it. No squeaky clean engine inside. I still had to boil them out and do a lot of scraping.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/26/2019 at 6:34am
Now put a whole can of ether down the carburetor, and then start it - then you get a supernova or at least a good size explosion. Things that kids used to do in the name of "science"!
Just like Dad telling son, just loosen than bolt under the distributor and put your had on the top to adjust your timing, it's just because of the wet that your timing is off!
That was the loudest I've ever seen him laugh!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/26/2019 at 10:53pm
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

"explode."
 


this exploding business intrigues me. tell me more?

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/26/2019 at 10:57pm
lol, the larger lesson here is -- oil today is pretty much all good, probably even the cheapest walmart stuff. its not 1960 anymore, chemists have been picking at it for 100+ years and current cars are demanding better lubricants and yeah, for 99% of non-extreme applications, it's all good.

also the likes of us who do oil changes probably excessively, we'll never have oil troubles.

PS: i wouldn't have mixed all those oils like that... i used Joe Gibbs break-in oil. a magic talisman that warded off explosions.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/01/2019 at 2:50am
The older engines at least in stock or mostly stock form are simply so low stress than most any oil of the proper viscosity containing enough extreme pressure additives will work as well as any other oil. It's the kind of thing where once you pass "good enough", anything better is simply overkill that results in little if any benefit. It's just a comfort margin.

Run $12 AMSOIL if you want. I don't think the engine will last significantly longer than it would on $4 Walmart oil.

Think about how many 20 year old Jeeps with 200,000+ miles on them are sill on the road out there with 4.0L's filled with cheap generic conventional oil and yet are not frying camshafts left and right. The 4.0L is more highly stressed than just about any other stock AMC engine.

You have to admit that these engines originally ran for many, many miles on the oil avaliable back in the days when they were new. I try to find modern oils that closely resemble the ye olde oils of yore. Old engines call for old oils. Oils designed specifically for those engines and engines designed specifically for those oils. That is why I like Rotella T and Penngrade1. Rotella is Diesel oil, but I believe an AMC 258 has more in common with a Cummins than a new Acura, and the oil should reflect the engine.
1955 Packard
1966 Marlin
1972 Wagoneer
1973 Ambassador
1977 Hornet
1982 Concord D/L
1984 Eagle Limited
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