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My '64 Rambler Classic |
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rms827
AMC Nut Joined: Apr/18/2018 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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I FINALLY got the engine out today. Took a break yesterday to let my back and neck rest. I had to run to a couple different stores to get the right size bolts to put the engine on the stand. Somebody here told me 1/2" x 4" coarse thread. Murphy's Law; I needed 7/16" x 3 1/2" bolts. NAPA (AKA Never Any Parts Available) didn't have them, so it was off to Home Depot, LOL. After cleaning up the block a little, I found the cylinder diameter stamped in the back of the block... 3 3/4 inches. I thought I had a mystery on my hands since I swear I remember posts here saying 3 1/2 was a 287 and 4 was a 327. Per wikipedia and a few other sources though: All these engines share common external dimensions, light weight - about 600 lb (270 kg) - forged crankshaft and rods, as well as most other parts.[4] The stroke for all Gen-1 V8s is 3.25 inches (82.6 millimetres). Engine displacement was a factor of the bore: the 250 cu in (4.1 L) has a 3.5-inch (88.9 mm) bore, 287 cu in (4.7 L) 3.75 in (95.3 mm), and the 327 cu in (5.4 L) a 4.0 in (101.6 mm) bore. The casting number stamped on the block also confirms the engine is a 287: All of that makes more sense than oversized pistons and rings with the bore 1/4" bigger than stock. There's still the question of the wrong paint, the lack of a ridge at the top of the cylinders and the lack of crosshatching on the cylinder walls. If the engine was used enough to wear off the cross hatching, there should be a ridge. I'm not sure if this was the world's most shortcutted rebuild, OR the engine is just lightly worn (and repainted??). I guess its a mystery for the machine shop to figure out. In one regard, I'm happy it's a 287. I can change the paint back to the light blue proper color. Red engine in red engine bay is just a bit too much red. Now the engine will stand out a bit better. Now I get to clean up and repaint the engine bay. I need to drop the gas tank and check the float and sending unit also. Fuel level was reading low all the time. Somewhere in all this, I need to reseal the tail end of the transmission and the differential also. Then there's adjusting the shift linkage, the chassis electrical issues and interior detailing... Oh yeah, and I still have to work up a sound system. *headdesk*
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1964 AMC Rambler Classic 660
"You can think I'm an idiot, just don't talk to me like I'm one." - Batman |
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rms827
AMC Nut Joined: Apr/18/2018 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Forgot a few things... Fatigue is really taking a toll on me, LOL. First, thanks to everyone who's replied here. I really appreciate the encouragement. Farna, your replies here and elsewhere have been a wealth of knowledge for me too. That said... I decided to skip pulling the fenders for the time being. The back outer sections of the wheel wells are access panels. Pulled them and took a good hard look with a flashlight and everything looks great. Beyond that, I feel like I'd have to pull the doors to get at the tack welds on the end of the fenders. Alot of work and space is still fairly tight where I'm working. If I'd seen any hint of rust, I'd still be pulling them, but everything looks as good as the cowl. The inside of the fenders do have some superficial surface rust (wheel well area) though. That I'll scrub down, rust treat, and maybe apply paint or some sort of protective coating to. The long forgotten heater core is off getting cleaned out and re-sealed now that I know the engine is largely good. I've still got to order those suspension bushings (and new shocks) also. Head Bolts... I think I jumped the gun on those. TTY bolts have a skinnier shaft typically and I was worried that the bolts simply having a heavier shoulder on them meant that they were TTY. Threads all look OK on them, BUT I think I'll spend the money on some new grade 8 bolts anyway just to be safe. Cheap insurance, and metal fatigue is a legit concern on 54 year old bolts. I really need to pull up the carpet also and make sure there's no surface rust on the floor pan from the heater core leaking and any other potential issues. I've got weatherstriping and window channels that need fixing if nothing else.
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1964 AMC Rambler Classic 660
"You can think I'm an idiot, just don't talk to me like I'm one." - Batman |
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pacerman
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9060 |
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I have some NOS door seals to fit some of the doors on your car if you need them. They are excess to my needs. They are in original packaging but there is shelf wear. PM me if you need any particular seal and I'll check my group of parts. Joe
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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Shannock
AMC Nut Joined: May/23/2016 Location: Rhode Island Status: Offline Points: 412 |
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I enjoy following your progress. Keep plodding along, I'm just a beginner here, but it's projects like yours that keep me motivated.
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Tom Davies
Rhode Island 1971 Javelin SST |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19686 |
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Check for rust inside and out at the pinch weld that holds the floor board and firewall to the kick panels. Those are common rust areas. Easy to see the pinch weld from under the wheel well, it's maybe 3-4" in from the outside of the fender, runs vertical. You can get the braze tacks on the upper edge of the fenders off without removing the doors. I used a small chisel. It's brazed with bronze, so a bit softer than steel. Might cause a dent on the cowl and bend the edge of the fender, but nothing to worry about. That's how I got mine off. Doors were in such good alignment I didn't want to disturb them -- gutted doors but left all hinge bolts alone. The window frame comes off, which made gutting the doors easy. You can see the bottoms of the "trough" gussets under the fender with a flashlight. The little drain holes are probably blocked and rubber "seals" gone. I never replace the seals, just drill 3-4 3/8" holes in the "trough" floor so anything that splashes in will get out. The seals are probably good for a while, and newer material should last longer, but the little drain holes are just too small. They are like a very small louver, and just a little dust/dirt can block them. You've seen photos of the cowl rust around the heater opening in the cowl floor, right? Haven't looked back in the posts, but I think I posted a link to the posts where I replaced a 63 cowl floor in the body section. If not, look for it there. If not rusted completely away you can repair the lip with filler or fiberglass.
Edited by farna - Jun/03/2018 at 11:01am |
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Frank Swygert
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rms827
AMC Nut Joined: Apr/18/2018 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Thanks again Farna. The undercarriage has a fairly thick coat of old undercoat on it, but I'll take a thorough look tomorrow. As for the tack welds... Maybe the pic will show what I'm up against: I just can't get a good angle to get at it. From below along the door frame would seem to be the only real way to break that weld with a hammer and chisel as you described. That's assuming you can even make out the weld with the lighting, paint and dirt. Engine goes to the machine shop tomorrow (later today actually, it's later than I thought, LOL). Lifters and lower engine look good though... |
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1964 AMC Rambler Classic 660
"You can think I'm an idiot, just don't talk to me like I'm one." - Batman |
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Ollie
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/17/2012 Location: Brandon, MS Status: Offline Points: 2803 |
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On the big scale of things.....your rust issues are minor, much worse have been over come.
Having AMC Fun, Ollie Edited by Ollie - Jun/05/2018 at 12:25pm |
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1966 American Convertible -- "The Rambler"..SOLD
1974 Postal Jeep -- "Rapid Delivery"...SOLD 1969 Rambler 220 post car--"Road Warrior" 1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer, 4.0L, auto, 2wd |
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pacerman
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9060 |
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I usually cut the brazed joints on the top and sometimes the bottoms of Rambler fenders with a Dremel tool. Simple to do and access is usually not a problem. Joe
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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fhpdave
AMC Nut Joined: May/09/2014 Location: Galena Ohio Status: Offline Points: 445 |
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X2 on the Dremmel tool!
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Old enough to know better - young enough not to care
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rms827
AMC Nut Joined: Apr/18/2018 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Oh yeah, very true Ollie. I'm very happy this thing is in such great shape. My voiced concerns over rust are a combination of pleasant surprise and wanting to keep the car is such great shape. The last part is doubly important to me because we're getting the heck out of the People's Republic of California next year or so.
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1964 AMC Rambler Classic 660
"You can think I'm an idiot, just don't talk to me like I'm one." - Batman |
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