My '64 Rambler Classic

I FINALLY got the engine out today.  Took a break yesterday to let my back and neck rest.

I had to run to a couple different stores to get the right size bolts to put the engine on the stand.  Somebody here told me 1/2" x 4" coarse thread.  Murphy's Law; I needed 7/16" x 3 1/2" bolts.  NAPA (AKA Never Any Parts Available) didn't have them, so it was off to Home Depot, LOL.

After cleaning up the block a little, I found the cylinder diameter stamped in the back of the block...  3 3/4 inches. 

I thought I had a mystery on my hands since I swear I remember posts here saying 3 1/2 was a 287 and 4 was a 327.  Per wikipedia and a few other sources though:

The casting number stamped on the block also confirms the engine is a 287:

All of that makes more sense than oversized pistons and rings with the bore 1/4" bigger than stock.  There's still the question of the wrong paint, the lack of a ridge at the top of the cylinders and the lack of crosshatching on the cylinder walls.  If the engine was used enough to wear off the cross hatching, there should be a ridge.  I'm not sure if this was the world's most shortcutted rebuild, OR the engine is just lightly worn (and repainted??).

I guess its a mystery for the machine shop to figure out.

In one regard, I'm happy it's a 287.  I can change the paint back to the light blue proper color.  Red engine in red engine bay is just a bit too much red.  Now the engine will stand out a bit better.

Now I get to clean up and repaint the engine bay.  I need to drop the gas tank and check the float and sending unit also.  Fuel level was reading low all the time.  Somewhere in all this, I need to reseal the tail end of the transmission and the differential also.

Then there's adjusting the shift linkage, the chassis electrical issues and interior detailing...  Oh yeah, and I still have to work up a sound system.   *headdesk*

Check for rust inside and out at the pinch weld that holds the floor board and firewall to the kick panels. Those are common rust areas. Easy to see the pinch weld from under the wheel well, it's maybe 3-4" in from the outside of the fender, runs vertical. You can get the braze tacks on the upper edge of the fenders off without removing the doors. I used a small chisel. It's brazed with bronze, so a bit softer than steel. Might cause a dent on the cowl and bend the edge of the fender, but nothing to worry about. That's how I got mine off. Doors were in such good alignment I didn't want to disturb them -- gutted doors but left all hinge bolts alone. The window frame comes off, which made gutting the doors easy. You can see the bottoms of the "trough" gussets under the fender with a flashlight. The little drain holes are probably blocked and rubber "seals" gone. I never replace the seals, just drill 3-4 3/8" holes in the "trough" floor so anything that splashes in will get out. The seals are probably good for a while, and newer material should last longer, but the little drain holes are just too small. They are like a very small louver, and just a little dust/dirt can block them.

You've seen photos of the cowl rust around the heater opening in the cowl floor, right? Haven't looked back in the posts, but I think I posted a link to the posts where I replaced a 63 cowl floor in the body section. If not, look for it there. If not rusted completely away you can repair the lip with filler or fiberglass.