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My 304 build |
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Buzzman72 
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Sep/15/2009 Location: Southern IN Status: Online Points: 2726 |
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 Posted: Jul/05/2014 at 9:56am |
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I may have missed it somewhere...but what bore is your 304?
I ask because I have a 304 that I may press into service for my '52 International rod build, and I want to go to 1.84/1.50 SBC valves...and I don't want to run into interference problems. I know that it takes a healthy overbore [.060 or more] to run the 1.94 intakes...so that's why I'm asking.
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Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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sweatlock
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Joined: Apr/28/2014 Location: Largo, FL Status: Offline Points: 3322 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2014 at 10:10am |
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I'm really interested in this build - it seems like some look down a bit on the 290/304 engines but considering the success of the Mustang 302 and also the Trans-Am Javelins, I think it's unfounded.
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73hornut
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Southern Oregon Status: Offline Points: 3130 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2014 at 10:16am |
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71 Javelin
74 Gremlin 79 Spirit AMX Rogue Valley Rumblers Like Us on FB https://www.facebook.com/groups/1602825606650796 |
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Slate
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Joined: Feb/28/2012 Location: Airyzona Status: Offline Points: 2782 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2014 at 10:56am |
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A 401- ish block in 360 - bore with short stroke forged/billet cranks in 1970 and later.
68'69 was an overbored 290 with the exception of the Michigan race in '69 which was a 343 -ish short deck block ( short run of purpose cast blocks - reportedly financed by Ronnie Kaplan ) that were outlawed after the race thanks to AMC apparently hiring a couple of totally out of their element ex-toothpaste execs whom were tasked to oversee the racing program - they didn't file, nor know about filing, the appropriate homologation papers - impeccable corporate timing and foresight at its best. Steve
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sweatlock
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Joined: Apr/28/2014 Location: Largo, FL Status: Offline Points: 3322 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2014 at 12:12pm |
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I was going by the CID and it could be argued that it's fundamentally the same block just a bit beefier due to the core. Important for a race-only engine, not so much for a street engine. I was just trying to point out that there's a place for smaller displacement and that they're no slouch in their own right - it seems as if the first performance mod anyone does to a 290/304 is yank it for a 360/390/401 Edited by sweatlock - Jul/05/2014 at 12:16pm |
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crazyamc
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Joined: Jan/08/2012 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 70 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2014 at 1:31pm |
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I for one, see lots of potential in the production 290/304 combo... and even MORE in a big bore/ short stroke application... The production style stuff is often poo-poohed, yanked out, etc.... Just for grins, start comparing engine dimensions to current Chevy LS motors, which I believe anybody would have to agree is about the high water mark for production wedge stuff-- not just hp, but compare design traits, oiling diagram, etc... '68 T/A Javelins were fast, competitive, and DURABLE... for a street hot rod, road race oil starvation won't be a real problem unless you're vintage racing or running from the cops. :) I "think" you can run production big valve heads on a 3.75 bore; just not with much camshaft. I think a better plan would be to put a slightly bigger set of valves in the heads, more cam, etc.... Chevy LS motors heads flow huge, due to 40 years of experience, computers, etc. AMC heads flow really well, especially for older stuff, so there will always be a shortfall comparatively. I for one am planning a "junkyard experiment" with some stock style 304 parts. This "cheapo" throw-together is to test pan configurations and oil drainback mods for efficiency before applying them to my thumpin' 4.08 x 2.906 short-deck IR Dominatored monster; ( I just remembered, Dr. Frankenstein's monster was the death of him..
 ) Ken Parkman did my heads, all based on the 305 cid limit.... 1.89 1.50 valves ... In spare 'junk' parts laying around, I'll destroke a "ruined" 390 crank down to 3.44 or so, some 6 inch rods, an old set of really light Venolia pistons, or scrounge a set of LS take outs... nothing optimized on this experiment, it's just an oiling exercise-- but I'm gonna bet it will run better than most think.... Ken
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Ronnie Kaplan Engineering :)
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Slate
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Joined: Feb/28/2012 Location: Airyzona Status: Offline Points: 2782 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2014 at 2:01pm |
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gremlinsteve
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Joined: Dec/16/2008 Location: houston Status: Offline Points: 884 |
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Posted: Jul/07/2014 at 8:35pm |
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I have the most part of this build together.
With the rain storms it's taking me a little while extra but I'm still able to finish small things. All hoses are on, sanden style ac comp is affixed, aligned and ready The power steering pump was torn down, I cleaned it all and rebuilt it also. It's now on the car I have the wiring affixed and correct, I'll check it over once more and confirm Heads torqued and will be retorqued for giggles tomorrow. I am waiting for a new rocker bridge that I broke yesterday. So I have time I will flush the oil pan tomorrow also, add my new oil and several pints of my favorite eos. At that point I'll add coolant and fuel and I should be close enough to hear it run. I will sort out my down kick linkage also, I have a idea for a dropped bracket that should work. I'll weld or affix it to this hollers stud mount and it should fly. I am hoping. I really do not want trans issues. Steve |
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gremlinsteve
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Joined: Dec/16/2008 Location: houston Status: Offline Points: 884 |
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Posted: Jul/27/2014 at 7:04pm |
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Ok
My current updates. Car is running The carb had an issue with a broken fuel bowl but I have replaced that. The ignition I got one tooth off originally but pulled the distributor and corrected that. She fired right off at that point. The carb has the kickdown fixed. I used a setup to keep the original kickdown setup. Moved the throttle bracket forward about one inch. All is well. Headers are on it, I took some advise on the passenger side on installing the starter, pulled that strut rod off and she went in easy. A forum member here helped install the headers into the chasis. Much appreciation for that. I was a few days away from surgery when we did that so it helped a lot. The only bad bad issue I had was with the radiator. It sprung a leak. One of the tubes started leaking and I tried to solder it with acid core 50/50 That did not go very well as I sprung five leaks Ect as I went. So I trashed canned it and then ordered one of the champion radiators. Broke the cam in slowly and she sound good. In fact it sound very very choppy at idle. Side effect of the lsa and the added advance I ground the cam on. If you remember it's a 218/224 ish at .050 With a total of 261/267 duration. Total lifts in the .475/.485 area. The heads work really well with the work I did, and you can tell. Between that work, this cam and the four barrel it is going to be a real beast for a 304. I will try my very best to post pics and or video clips. I have to open a account somewhere I guess to get that uploaded. I'm not finished with it yet, I still need to drop the new ear end into it, while doing that I will add the new tailpipes, mufflers and build out the header to muffler section. Steve |
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Slate
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Joined: Feb/28/2012 Location: Airyzona Status: Offline Points: 2782 |
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Posted: Jul/27/2014 at 10:35pm |
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Sweet!
Steve
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sweatlock wrote: