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Multiple light issues with a '63 Rambler Classic

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mostru Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/20/2017 at 9:38pm
Got it all fixed, all the lights are working now. The temp gauge also works but the fuel gauge doesn't, I'll take a look at it tomorrow. The fuses needed to be replaced. I didn't even bother with them since they looked good but after taking them out and taking a closer look earlier, I found most of them were blown. At least I got a new brake switch and regulator in the process. I appreciate all the help guys, I hope I didn't waste anyone's time and if there's one thing I learned from this, it is to check EVERYTHING.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/21/2017 at 6:21am
No problem at all! Hopefully they were just blown from age or issues that were taken care of. If not, you'll soon find out!

The fuel gauge issue is most likely the sending unit in the tank. There is a wire going through the trunk to the fuel gauge, I think it's yellow, but check your diagram. I believe there is a connector in the trunk you can unplug. Ground that wire with the switch on and see if the gauge pegs at above full. If it does your wiring and gauge is good, sending unit is bad. Tomj posted somewhere on here about using a universal sending unit with photos. I've done that on a couple cars. You need a Ford/early Stewart Warner type sending unit (0-76 ohms or something like that -- may be listed as 7x-0 or 7x-10... empty is 7x ohms, full is 9 or 10 -- that's why it will register over full). You have to disassemble the stock unit and figure out how to mount the adjustable unit from the universal to the plate on the pickup tube that the stock unit came off of. Wire it on or use small bolts. Then you can bend the wire arm to match the tank and read correctly. Use an ohmmeter to adjust (full is 9 ohms, empty 73 ohms). I used a boat tank unit. Here's one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-73-10-Ohm-Gas-Fuel-Sending-Unit-5-Bolt-Early-Ford-AMC-Mopar-TAN-ORG-/331820017331
Takes a bit of work to get the wire connection. I used a new brass screw through the original insulated connection, IIRC. You might be able to cut and splice the wire in the tank, or cut the strap (if it uses that instead of a wire) and solder a new wire to the stub.
Frank Swygert
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