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Motor bogs down and dies |
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uncljohn
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
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When properly adjusted and with what ever combination of vacuum hoses in place correctly a carbureted car is difficult to tell from one that is fuel injected. At least as OEM configured. If heavily modified it generally takes one to be fully warmed to run that well with instantaneous throttle response. There are a handful of things that can cause the symptom you are describing with everything ranging from incorrect timing, improper carburetor adjustments around the choke settings and idle mixture and rpm settings. Vacuum leaks up to and including incorrect vacuum connections. They can look fine! And be wrong. All of these were eliminated by in large when port injection became a standard. Thus instantaneous self tuning etc. With a Carburetor and Stand alone ignition they all take some one to verify when things are correct. Lacking the tools and the time to actually verify things are correctly adjusted, I really do not know what to suggest other than? Take the time to do a step by step tuneup by the numbers and see to it things are actually as they should be! |
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70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
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Boris Badanov
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4209 |
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It should squirt with any throttle movement.
It should be a strong and instant squirt when snapping it open. It should be so strong you can hear it with the engine off. |
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Gremlin Dreams
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lunny24
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/16/2015 Location: Idaho Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Tonight I had very little time to look at it again but I may have found the problem (without a vacuum gauge.) I expect the vacuum hoses need to be replaced which is what I was planning anyway. One hose specifically connecting to the distributor vacuum advance was fairly loose. Loose enough to pop off when I installed the new carb. I had some old hose lying around so I cut it to size and then installed it and the car acts much better when I floor it. I drove it a bit and I would say 1 out of 5 times I floor it (of course, I wouldn't be driving it like this at all...but to test) it almost stalled. In fact, this time I heard a click/pop at the same time which I didn't hear before. Now clue what that might be...Anyway, seems the new hose and tape (again...I will replace soon with a real hose) fixed the problem fairly well for now. I'll replace all the vacuum hoses and see how it runs then.
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lunny24
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/16/2015 Location: Idaho Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Looking for a bit more assistance all. I have replaced all vacuum hoses and tuned the new carb. By no means am I a professional so if I need to take it into a pro to tune it I will but I'm determined to figure this out on my own.
Once I replaced the vacuum hoses the car has acted tremendously better when in idle, parked. Before I did that, any time I would stomp on the gas the car would hiccup or even stall completely. It doesn't do that really at all anymore - even when the motor is fairly cold still. The issue I'm still having is while driving. If I am at a complete stop and am in drive and put the pedal to the floor it hiccups and most likely just stalls completely. I thought maybe I was running lean but I adjusted and I don't think that's it. If I am driving and cruising fairly well at maybe 5-10 mph and then floor it it won't stall and seems to do fine. In fact, when it does hiccup there's even a 'clink' sound coming from the engine bay but I'm not sure where. I can even feel it in my foot from the pedal...like its a linkage thing. I haven't replaced the fuel pump. Maybe that's it? I did replace the fuel filter and replace the lines to the fuel pump. The other thing it does every now and then after driving it trying to figure it out is when I'm in drive and just sitting there its very weak...like it will die if I let it and not give any gas. Anyway, I'd greatly appreciate any feedback. I may just replace the pump regardless. 50 year old pump thats sat for 25 years is bound to be not much good.
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Boris Badanov
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4209 |
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Easter egg hunts suck and are very expensive.
Borrow a carb and try it. Hint... I would bet the farm that it aint the fuel pump. |
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Gremlin Dreams
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lunny24
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/16/2015 Location: Idaho Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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I tend to agree with you Boris. One other thing I think is strange is on the idle control screws - I know if you screw even one of them all the way in the motor should act up - even die. I can screw both of them all the way in and the car doesn't seem to run any different than when they are out. Is this typical?
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uncljohn
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
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The adjustments available to you on an early AMC V8 are quite simple.
On the carburetor there are two adjustments on the throttle linkage, one having to do with the idle speed when the choke is on the other having to do with the idle speed when the engine is warm and the choke Is off. On a 2bbl carburetor there are two mixture screws which only are functional if the idle speed is correctly set. They come into play when the throttle butter fly is almost closed. If idle speed is set to high an rpm, the idle mixture screw =s are pretty much of no use at all. They DO NOT LEAN OUT THE CARBURETOR!!!! They only control the mixture of the idle setting. Then you have the idle timing adjustment made at a low rpm and with the vacuum advance to the distributor disconnected. These adjustments in and of themselves are not very critical at all. They are though heavily dependent on being made at the proper point in a sequence of events. You say you have replaced all the vacuum lines. What guideline did you use to determine the vacuum lines actually went where they belonged? If they are not properly connected any number of problems can occur, specially if adjustments are not being made in a manner that they should be made. |
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70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
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lunny24
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/16/2015 Location: Idaho Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Not sure if there are guidelines per se for the vacuum hoses. I simply replaced each one of them one by one so I would expect that if they were originally in the correct places, then all is well.
I know about all of the adjustment locations on the carb and feel fairly confident they are adjusted well enough to drive the vehicle. Now, is it running top form?..obviously not but I believe I need to get ahold of a vacuum gauge and tach to do that properly. In any case, I'm still trying to figure out why the vehicle wants to die every time I floor it or even give it some gas real quick and take my foot off...
Edited by lunny24 - Jun/04/2016 at 5:35pm |
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uncljohn
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
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I POINNT OUT THE VACUM line correctness by in large the reasoning being rarely is it actually correct when attempting to discover what is wrong with your vehicle.
Specially one that has just been purchased and is defined as being in trouble and the adjustments have bee "Played" with in order to make it run better. What is the year and size of the engine and I'll see if I have vacuum diagrams for it. |
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70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
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lunny24
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/16/2015 Location: Idaho Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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This is a 68 Rebel with the 290. I believe the vacuum lines were all in the correct place as the car was in the family and then parked for 25 years with nobody messing with it so I assume they were in the correct place. But of course, we all know what happens when we assume...
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