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More t-10 questions |
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Javelin69 
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Joined: Dec/11/2013 Location: Madison wi Status: Offline Points: 187 |
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 Topic: More t-10 questionsPosted: Aug/12/2016 at 8:20am |
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I know it's impossible to see what I'm working with, but my question is this. When going thru a t-10, are there parts you guys always replace as opposed to ones that get reused depending on condition? Obviously I'm not talking about gears and shafts, but the small stuff. The guy helping me with mine says the syncros and such look fine, but some of these parts are not that expensive, and I want to do this right. Likewise, one of the sliders is a bit sticky with roughness on the surface of the inner hub. He says to clean it up with a light file or emery paper, but I wonder if a new one is in order. Thanks!
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Buzzman72
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Joined: Sep/15/2009 Location: Southern IN Status: Offline Points: 2725 |
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Posted: Aug/12/2016 at 9:10am |
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"When in doubt, swap it out."
If it's usable, save the old part for emergencies. But peace of mind, especially hundreds of miles from home, is worth more than trying to find a place to drop your tranny in BFE... My opinion, and worth every cent you paid to get it. |
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Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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1970390amx
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Joined: Jul/11/2008 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 3314 |
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Posted: Aug/12/2016 at 1:56pm |
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This is a sycro setting on the cone of a gear. As you can see there is about 1/16 of an inch gap. As the brass wears this gap gets smaller. In order for the ring to do is job it must set on the cone squarely and not wobble. And with very little force grip onto the cone. I have seen new sycros bottom on the gear or wobble and not grip the cone. Just because its new dont mean its better. As far as the slider goes I wold buy new, they make a style called a torque lock, that has a small back cut in the teeth that lock it in to gear. It helps keep gears with slight wear from jumping out of gear. If you are using your old slider make sure the grove for the fork is not worn.
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1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box |
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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Posted: Aug/12/2016 at 3:23pm |
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replace the brass every time (if it's got miles...) everyone looks at the teeth, but the "working" part of the synchronizers is the *inside*, tapered, conical portion -- that's the oil-wet clutch that brings the steel gear up to speed. when new there's a crosshatched patter that sets the "wetting" and therefore the grip of the clutch. that's where the wear goes. when the five-sided "house" teeth are rounded are chipped, it means the clutch portion has been worn for some time! i replace the brass synchro, the little dogs and the two springs inside.
while i'm hardly a trans expert, ive done only T96 and T14 (but all BW manuals are the same design), i imagine usage patterns on street cars is the same -- and mine, the matching synchro teeth on the first gear (in yr pic above, the middle row visible) are usually worn, and not sharp. here's where my knowledge ends: the advice is, if you replace one gear, you should also replace it's mate at the same time, as they wear together. the problem is, taken literally, replace one gear you replace them all (except reverse idler): first, second gears on the mainshaft mate to the the secondary compound gear, which mates to all the other gears. on my T96 i did mix'n'match used and new gears; none had any scoring of any kind (and i washed them spotlessly, until the kerosene::oil cleaner mix ran clear). of course if there's tenth-microinch rippling etc i can't see it, but when that trans died AGAIN (broke synchros, again), after 8, 9, 10 years of use, there was no noise or additional visible wear on the mated used/new gears. for what that's worth. but with only 140hp you'd think i wouldn't be stressing any thing (except that the T96 is good for probably half that, the P.O.S. that it is :-) gears is gears :-) |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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Posted: Aug/12/2016 at 3:26pm |
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everything in this post, including your .sig, is utterly unassailable truth. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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Buzzman72
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Joined: Sep/15/2009 Location: Southern IN Status: Offline Points: 2725 |
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Posted: Aug/13/2016 at 4:10pm |
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I've been broken down in BFE...so I know whereof I speak. That's called "saving a dime now to spend a dollar later." False economy.
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Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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Buzzman72 wrote: