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Model15 twin grip pinion seal |
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typhooner 
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Joined: Jun/28/2011 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 1185 |
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 Posted: Aug/23/2015 at 2:39pm |
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i'll check on Monday.
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1969 Hurst SC/Rambler A Scheme
1969 Rebel Raider Electric Green 1962 IH/AMC SC/out |
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Ram Air Rick
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Joined: Jul/04/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2668 |
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Posted: Aug/10/2017 at 5:54pm |
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Was there ever any resolution here?
Need one myself. Could use the information. Rich C.
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farna
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Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689 |
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Posted: Aug/11/2017 at 6:24am |
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That high priced seal is it. It's an AMC only seal. I thought it was only used with the "big nut" driveshaft used through 65 (I'd previously said 63... a mistake!) in Americans with the 195.6 engine. Apparently it was kept through 1969 on cars with the AMC 15 and a bolt-on yoke as well.
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Frank Swygert
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Aug/11/2017 at 7:19am |
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I rebuilt the rear differential in my Eagle - that's a 15. I didn't pay much at all for a pinion seal.
I will say that when looking for the crush sleeve be very careful - the books at MOST stores are wrong, very wrong. I finally went to O'Reilly's where I could order the crush sleeve and not accept it if it was wrong. I had them order two, went in the next day with my old crush sleeve and compared and good news - what they claim is for a 20 was actually the CORRECT part for the Eagle differential. It seems that when one store has things wrong, they all copy from the same source and I found all parts stores listed it wrong, claiming an Eagle had a 20 style crush sleeve. I have a spare crush sleeve for a 20 and they are quite different. So their book says the crush sleeve should not work, but it was actually correct. Watch out for this on seals, too. I'd have to look again to see how my later Eagle differential seal and bearing parts compare to what you have. If the seal is bad be very sure to check the bearings. I am glad I did as if I hadn't, I'd have been stranded on the road one day but shredded bearings. |
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amc67rogue
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Joined: Nov/05/2008 Location: Phx. AZ. Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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Posted: Aug/11/2017 at 7:29pm |
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All of the American model 15 rear ends used the torque tube style ring & pinions. That seal fits the big nut and the bolt on style yokes.
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Keith Coggins 67Rogue X code
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689 |
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Posted: Aug/12/2017 at 11:07am |
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SIMILAR to torque tube ring and pinion, but not the same. The open drives without the big nut driveshaft yoke (65-69 199/232) use a pinion with a threaded end for a nut to retain the yoke. The big nut yoke (used only with 196 powered cars IIRC) doesn't have that -- the big nut is on a tapered thread and clamps to the pinion shaft. That nut is supposed to be tightened to 300 ft/lbs!!
1970 and later AMC 15 axles use a different (flat) seal -- through 69 they use the same seal as the big nut yoke does, which is a stepped seal used only by AMC. |
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Frank Swygert
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amc67rogue
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Joined: Nov/05/2008 Location: Phx. AZ. Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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Posted: Aug/12/2017 at 11:42am |
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That is true . The pinion used with the bolt on yoke was drilled and taped 1/2-20 for a bolt.
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Keith Coggins 67Rogue X code
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Prince
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Joined: Aug/12/2019 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Posted: Sep/10/2019 at 6:34pm |
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Hi everyone. This seal is rare as hen's teeth, and when you do find it, it's very expensive. The place i found that sold it wanted $39 for the seal another $50 for shipping and then some more for taxes. Feeling that I would feel stupid paying that much, and combining that with my lack of patience in transit time, I decided to make a seal. It is not too difficult. I went to a local metal supply store, and got a pipe that was a little over 70mm OD. Some of the other pipes I needed I was able to use from a leftover custom built driveshaft. I had to shorten the 70mm OD pipe by cutting it, and then welding it together again, without warping. The size has to be not too tight, and not too loose wither. It would have been easier removing some of the OD with a lathe. Then I used another pipe on the inside, welded it, and the finally another with a 25mm ID. I then used 2 metric seals purchased on ebay (25mm=1inch). The advantage of this seal is that it was not only cheaper, but much stronger than the original one, as each of the pipes has a thickness of about 5mm. When the time comes to change the seal again, the standard flat seal can easily be replaced whilst still using the same housing. Unfortunately, I lost the picture I had. I've got a video on youtube showing how it was done, if it helps anyone: How to make or adapt a National 3128171 pinion-differential oil seal for 1963 Rambler American If anyone wishes to buy one, let me know! |
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Prince
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Joined: Aug/12/2019 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Posted: Sep/10/2019 at 6:45pm |
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The thing that disappoints me on the original seal is that oil was leaking not through the seal itself, but rather through the 2nd wall that is on the face of the seal. This 2nd wall is only spot welded onto the main housing and so any deformations on the thin wall of the housing will cause a leak. Its just a really bad seal. I appreciate the steel housing, but the workmanship and design are terrible. The only thing that is worst than a bad part is a part that is bad but looks good, which is this seal. Anyways, with the new custom seal, the actual rubber seal is now easily replaced, and easily obtained.
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farna
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Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689 |
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Posted: Sep/11/2019 at 6:32am |
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You might want to make a couple of those and advertise them here and send a note to AMCRC. As you noted, the seals are hard to come by, and then they are likely to be 20+ years old to boot, so they may not last long.
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Frank Swygert
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