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Model 20/Moser Axle kits/model 20

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FuzzFace2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/03/2012 at 10:06pm
Did not know Larry was still around? Did you check to see what Moser got for axles?
I thought Larry got his from Moser?
Dave ----
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/04/2012 at 2:32pm
That sales pitch is partially false. Many people with medium build engines run stock axles. Loosen the nuts and torque them back to 250-300 ft/lbs. The end of the axle stretches slightly over time which relives the torque. Every 5-10 years retorque the nuts. Every year or two if you're drag racing a lot. If you're running slicks and hooking up real good THEN you probably need the Moser axles, or if you're running over 500 hp (maybe less if you're using a stick shift, as that shocks the drivetrain harder). If running street tires and making occasional hard runs, keep the nuts torqued. Even two keys isn't really necessary, but won't hurt.

Edited by farna - Feb/04/2012 at 2:32pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote edezutel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2012 at 5:48pm
No I didnt my brother found these and bought them we should have them mid week..the keyway is gone in the drivers side and its twisted on the shaft so much i cant get it off,  the pass side doesnt look that great either, It really does look like a pretty tough rear end other than the keyed hubs, the new 3.73 is installed ( thanks Paulie D) I believe this car makes in excess of 450 hp its has glass fenders, hood and bumpers so is pretty light and it is a T10 car it will have 275 50 15 drag radial so i think this the right think for me to do.. Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/06/2012 at 8:21pm

What ever rear you do go with weld the tubes to the center and brace up the spring mounts or the rear could fold them and you end up with junk drive shaft, trany and maybe the rear.

Saw this on a nice looking Gremlin and it has not been the same since.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amc67rogue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/06/2012 at 10:02pm
The 20 is just as strong as the gm 12 bolt , the weak link is the 2 piece axles . Like Farna said retorque the axles , if running hard with slicks get 1 piece axles . The 12 bolt & the 20 use the same ring & pinion BEARINGS . The other difference is the 12 bolt has 3 in. axle tubes, the 20 only has 2.25. All leaf spring axles need the string perches renforced , ford , gm ,  mopar & amc .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rogue401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/06/2012 at 10:27pm
I did this about ten years ago. I sent Moser the axles with the backing plates and got everything back and it bolted together perfect. A couple of years later I decided to have the rear narrowed about an inch on each side. I took it to a race car fabricator who cut the ends off the axle tubes and welded 9" Ford housing ends on and we used Currie 9" ford axles and bearings. It worked perfect and allowed me to bolt on Ford Explorer Disc brakes. Only problem is I think the guy bent the housing rebuilding it. Rear carrier bearings last about 100 miles now and it gets so hot it smokes. So now I have a nice rear with an Auburn posi sitting in the shed. Oh, well...it looks pretty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ryder6330 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/07/2012 at 4:10pm
I have broken 2-3 axles in my Rebel. Mild 360. stock size tires. Stock auto. Never drag raced. First one tore the keyway out. 2nd one snapped clean at the bearing. I will be going one-piece. There are obviously a lot of loading on axles that I dont understand, and the stock ones just dont cut it. Of course here in Australia buying a used axle and hub seems to work out about the same price as aftermarket one piece axles. And there just so much easier to change bearings etc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/07/2012 at 4:56pm
It's all in torquing the axle nuts! Has to be done every 5-10 years, 250-300 ft/lbs. AMC never specified a retorque interval because the cars were designed to last 10 years/100K. After that they need retorquing!
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JavmanBBG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/07/2012 at 8:54pm
make sure you use u joint girdles instead of u bolts as the caps can exit through the back glass of an AMX just a few inches from your head

I broke the perch pads on my stock 2.83 rear with Firestone firehawks and a brass clutch my car runs 13.1-13.2 in the quarter, in my uncles car with also with firehawk street tires (hot) and 3.91s with around 600 hp at the crank we broke all the plug welds in the center and turned the center about 75* on the tubes blew up the u joint and pressed the caps a little over 1/8" in to the u joint girdles both happened on the street so defiantly do some welding and bracing.  I think LPW makes a rear end girdle as well but I don't know that 450HP warrants it.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote edezutel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2012 at 8:10pm
Thanks Fuzz and Ant for the information..  We installed the Moser axles we purchased from Larry.. the hardest part was pressing the bearings on the shafts (we own a press) its a very straight fpward install and in my opnion worth every penny and they fit perfect.. I ended up cutting the inner bearing and race as even my press wouldnt budge them.. so i dont believe the retorque would have saved these we are probally lucky we never lost a wheel....(car ran mid 13's 10 years ago)..  thanks agsin.. Ed
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