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model 20 answers

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1970390amx View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/19/2013 at 1:50pm
http://theamcforum.com/forum/how-to-id-a-twin-grip_topic24607.html This a link to a different thread that has pictures of different carriers. early 70 and older carrier is two piece and is probably the strongest. 71 and newer is one piece and no one likes it, I think its ok. also pictures of an open diff. A torque tube carrier is a two piece and is pretty strong. I have heard that the torque tube carriers are different than non torque tube carriers. They take major changes in the shims to work, not realy a big deal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/19/2013 at 2:08pm
Yeah, I see that the ones posted by 390Spirit and billd appear to be 2 piece.
Thanks for the link, it would be nice if the info could be compiled into this sticky.

I thought I had read that there was a break in designs on the two piece carriers after 65 or 66?

If it stops raining and we get a break I need to open up the one I have and see what kind of shape it is in. Was in the flood/parts car. Supposed to be 3:15 twingrip. Had the wheel housing sticker in the trunk and the correct tag, so should still be in there, somewhere.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote apd6545 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2013 at 9:00pm
I just want to clarify one point.  I have just taken a part a 70 MD Javelin 360 diff which I am refurb-ing.  I can tell you that from the factor this diff came with .048 - .050 shims on the right side.  Them when setting end play for the axles you shim out the left side.. This seems to be missed in the discussion. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2013 at 12:07am
Originally posted by apd6545 apd6545 wrote:

I just want to clarify one point.  I have just taken a part a 70 MD Javelin 360 diff which I am refurb-ing.  I can tell you that from the factor this diff came with .048 - .050 shims on the right side.  Them when setting end play for the axles you shim out the left side.. This seems to be missed in the discussion. 

The right side should not have shims according to the factory manuals. If there are shims there they were put in later
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calereeves Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2013 at 2:55pm
I've reinstalled my right side axle, and now I can't get the left side to go in deep enough. I can feel it engage in the splines of the spider gear, but then it bottoms out. I can move the right side axle in and out and it's clearly not touching the left side because it doesn't move at all. I lack about 3/8-1/2 inch in depth to be able to get the bearing race in. Both axles had new bearings pressed in and were definitely seated all the way against the rib on the axle.

What am I doing wrong??

Edit: All I've done is pull the axles and replace the bearings. I haven't touched the center section. Looking down into the tube, I can't see anything that would prevent the axle from sliding in to full depth. I'm at a complete loss here...

Edited by calereeves - Jul/27/2013 at 3:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2013 at 5:44pm
The only thing I can think of is that an early two piece carrier has two sets of splines on each side, maybe something slipped causing a missalignment
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 68SSTjavelin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2013 at 10:33pm
This has been an awesome thread. Thank you all for all of the education on the AMC 20 rear end. I am left with a few questions after reading the entire thread. and having never rebuilt a rear end before, some of these questions may come off very newbie-ish. I want to change gear ratio and add twin grip, posi-trac, limited slip, what ever one wants to call it.
1) Where would I get the shims mentioned here. Are these available aftermarket?
2) If I am changing gear ratio, do I need any additional shims sets?
3) Looking at parts available at Jegs, for example, the pro series differential is a 12 bolt. does this mean 12 bolts for the ring gear? If so, looking at these photos, the ring gears depicted only have 8 bolts.

Thanks in advance for any updates or added info!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2013 at 9:00pm
1)Most differential install kits have shims that will work but are different than original. ratech has original type shims available. They also have shim kits that eliminate the crush sleeve.

2)No extra shims if you change ratios

3)You need to look at model 20 parts, they might be listed as AMC or jeep. 12 bolt is a GM type of diff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 68SSTjavelin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/24/2013 at 6:56pm
Originally posted by 1970390amx 1970390amx wrote:

This shows the axle bearings after the outer seal, dust cover, and brake backing plate have been removed. The TSM shows a special tool number J-2498 to pull the axles out of the housing. Never have seen one. What works for me is to hit one axle with a dead blow and this knocks the oposite axle out, then swap sides for other side. Helps to have a partner watch the axle that is coming out to keep it from hitting the floor.


Are there no "c" clips? What holds the axles in? surely not just pressed in. What would keep the entire assembly from coming out during usage, the dust cover?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote amcamx70ny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/24/2013 at 8:32pm
I believe the backing plates (for the rear brakes) hold the axles in.
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