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model 20 answers

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1970390amx View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/14/2010 at 11:44pm
And here is the coast side. I did not have the shims to move the carrier over to increase the backlash in a no load state. But after thinking about it and calculating what shims I would need to move the carrier, then preload the bearings, I found I had shims to do that and ended up with .007 backlash and the above pattens. I have never shown much detail in installing the pinion. At this point it has no crush sleeve and no seal in it. But its pretty simple to remove the carrier and pinion  then reassemble with the crush sleeve. I always put the yoke on and tighten untell most of the play is gone and the remove the yoke and install the seal before torqueing the final amount of travel to set the preload. It takes very little to overtorque the pinnion and have to much preload. You cannot loosen the nut if you get it to tight, you must disassemble and start over with a new crush sleeve. The book Performance American Style suggests at one point to eliminate the crush sleeve and replace it with a shim pack of a thickness needed to set bearing preload. Then you can torque the pinnion nut tighter without changeing the preload. This helps with the stress under racing conditions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/14/2010 at 11:47pm
This is the rubbing block found in the center of a carrier, it should be inspected for wear. If it is worn it might be difficult or impossible to set the axle end play correctly. And if you are installing aftermarket axles it needs to be removed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 1:46am
I used a 3/4 inch drive socket to install the inner axle seal. Measureing the seals installed depth before removal looking at the steps in the axle housing I came up with about a 1.15 inch installed depth.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 1:54am
Install the right side axle first, the bearing should be packed with grease as it gets no lube from the differental. The brake backing plate, outer axle seal and dust cover go on in that order. Alittle sealer on both sides of the backing plate is in order. No shims on the right side. There are several shinny spots on the backing plate. These are spots that the brake shoes ride against, if there is wear at these points now is the time to find new ones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 2:00am
Its hard to get an accurate measurement but after installing the left axle you will find that the bearing sticks out from the flange. This distance needs to be filled with the axle shims, mine was about .056 and on teardown it had .060 in shims so that is what I put back in it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 2:04am
A magnetic dial indicator can give you a end play reading, but is difficult to stick to the backing plate. A clamp on indicator as billd shows earlier would seem to work better. My end play is still to tight. I will need to add more shims.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 2:07am
The only thing left is to add the hubs. Remember there is a torque spec for the nut and a spec for how much the axle should protrude past the hub.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 7:30am
Hey feel free to use my photos on the hub/axle depth and end-play if you wish....

On the backing plates, and this was a factory (Bendix) repair - weld up the pads the shoes ride on, grind and file them flat, repaint the backing plates and lube with white lube. That was literally the recommended process back in the 70s. I've welded and brazed and filed flat hundreds of backing plates over the decades......
You want NO groove or ridge for them to hang up in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bcsideshow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/23/2011 at 10:10am
Why do you remove the rubbing block for aftermarket axles?  I sent my factory axles into Moser and just got the new one piece axles back.  PLan to install next weekend.  Thanks for all the info.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/23/2011 at 10:34am
The factory axles use a single tapered bearing on each end, they each touch the rubbing block and have an endplay spec that needs to be set. The Moser axles use a different style of bearing and no end play is set. I guess the block could be left in, but if the new axles touch it at all it could cause the axle bearings to go bad in a short time. Seems best to just remove it.
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