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model 20 answers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tached_out Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2016 at 9:45pm
Originally posted by eggsplurt eggsplurt wrote:

OK Guys.....looking for some advice/info here on a 1965 Twin-Grip Rambler Posi Unit....I need clutch packs and want to know if my only availability are the ones from Galvins, Blazers, etc......meaning, what are my options as far as them being the same in various other posi-rears or AMC M20's into the 70's......Please give me a call in thanks in advance for the info......Steve.....N.J.....732-530-2061

The Twin Grip you have should use the same clutches as a Chrysler 8 3/4'', and Chevrolet 1955-1964.

https://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=5882
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Glenn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/13/2016 at 1:23pm
Thanks eggsplurt. Now that looks like it should work! I still have one axle left with everything attached to play with!
-GH-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mopar440cu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 11:55am
I have a 79 AMC model 20 that I am rebuilding and are in need of some advise, first I have to say great write up!

I will tell you that the AMC 20 I am working on came with 4:56 gears, Moser axles and a trac loc and had a small bind  when you turned the driveshaft. As I tore it down I think I found out one of the reasons it was possibly binding. The previous owner did not take out the thrust block in the carrier. Reason I am guessing this was the cause is because, when I removed both axles and spun the driveshaft the noise was gone. I  understand I will also have to check and see if the bearing, Timken set #9, is sticking out from the axle tube between .020"-.080" per Moser's instructions as this also might be a cause. I will also note the center pin was a b**ch to get out. I had to press it out. I thought they all came with a retainer bolt/pin to hold the center pin up but, mine did not.

Question 1.When I disassembled the axle I had to cut off the press ring to get the bearing, retainer/seal and brake backing plate off but how do I get the parts back on. May I just use my 20 ton press to press it altogether? Any pics of someone doing this? I have not found one yet.

Question 2. I read that I should not reuse my old ring gear bolts is this true?

Question 3. What does worn out trac loc cluthes look like? I can get a pic of mine if you need to see them. I figure since I had to take the center pin out I might as well change them.

This is America. What you believe is not the problem... What you believe I SHOULD BELIEVE is the problem!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 12:04pm
Also check e wear pattern inside on the side walls... track loc carriers wear from the clutches after some time.

As for putting the carrier stuff together, my 73 TSM had info, but all I have now is my 71, which has a different carrier than yours. Though someone will pop up with info for you soon.

Edited by 304-dude - Oct/25/2016 at 12:07pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mopar440cu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/26/2016 at 6:35pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Also check e wear pattern inside on the side walls... track loc carriers wear from the clutches after some time.

As for putting the carrier stuff together, my 73 TSM had info, but all I have now is my 71, which has a different carrier than yours. Though someone will pop up with info for you soon.

I checked the side walls and they look good, Thanks for the info!!
This is America. What you believe is not the problem... What you believe I SHOULD BELIEVE is the problem!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/26/2016 at 6:45pm
Originally posted by mopar440cu mopar440cu wrote:


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Also check e wear pattern inside on the side walls... track loc carriers wear from the clutches after some time.

As for putting the carrier stuff together, my 73 TSM had info, but all I have now is my 71, which has a different carrier than yours. Though someone will pop up with info for you soon.


I checked the side walls and they look good, Thanks for the info!!


Your stuff looks like new, but it is always good to check everything since you have gone that far.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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mopar440cu View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mopar440cu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/27/2016 at 6:54am
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Originally posted by mopar440cu mopar440cu wrote:


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Also check e wear pattern inside on the side walls... track loc carriers wear from the clutches after some time.

As for putting the carrier stuff together, my 73 TSM had info, but all I have now is my 71, which has a different carrier than yours. Though someone will pop up with info for you soon.


I checked the side walls and they look good, Thanks for the info!!


Your stuff looks like new, but it is always good to check everything since you have gone that far.
 

Yes, your right the ring and pinion do look like new, as well as the axles. A good buy @ $150 for the whole axle. I think the previous owner just forgot to take out the thrust block. Even the clutches look good but, I am replacing them and keeping these for a spare. Trying to read about whats a good oil to put in with the LS modifierI don't want to run synthetic at this point, due to everything is relatively new. Maybe in a few thousand miles.
This is America. What you believe is not the problem... What you believe I SHOULD BELIEVE is the problem!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/27/2016 at 7:07am
I think Ford Racing modifier is the best, just make sure your cluch pack will allow for it. Stinky though if using it.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mopar440cu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/27/2016 at 8:04am
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I think Ford Racing modifier is the best, just make sure your cluch pack will allow for it. Stinky though if using it.

Have you tried adding a extra clutch on each side?
This is America. What you believe is not the problem... What you believe I SHOULD BELIEVE is the problem!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/27/2016 at 8:17am
Not with that type of unit... only heard of it when case is worn.

Some will mess with the two piece units in such ways, just don't know for sure how much tolerance a one piece has.

401MATCOUPE may chime in on your question.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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