TheAMCForum.com Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > The Garage > Suspension, Steering, Brakes & Wheels
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Mega Modding Braking, Suspension & Steering
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Click for TheAMCForum Rules / Click for PDF version of Forum Rules
Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.

Mega Modding Braking, Suspension & Steering

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 891011>
Author
Message
343sharpstick View Drop Down
AMC Nut
AMC Nut
Avatar

Joined: Mar/10/2010
Location: Wisconsin
Status: Offline
Points: 296
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 343sharpstick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/31/2017 at 9:35am
I love what your doing.
I just wish you could drive the car with your changes and see how it works, and start tuning and competing with it.
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/29/2008
Location: Central Illinoi
Status: Online
Points: 5633
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/31/2017 at 9:57am
Thanks! I do too, though it is to be a daily driver, ever when I get to completing it.

Hind sight, I should have left my perfectly good running engine and tranny alone, so I could test each upgrade and feel happier knowing there are real improvements over just esthetics. There are some things that bug me, mainly using obvious non 70's brakes, wheels, alternator and engine accessories. Not that i wanted all factory components, just wanted to keep things in the period, or be sneaky with newer tech to be not so noticeable.

Oddly enough the engine compartment will give away too much of the details once you get looking around at new components.

I may post a light weight upper and lower control arm reinforcement mod, which is a variation to most other mods pertaining to strengthening. Since I have a few things needing welded up, that part will be added to my list. Unfortunately welding is something I can't do, at least for now.



Edited by 304-dude - Aug/31/2017 at 4:15pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/29/2008
Location: Central Illinoi
Status: Online
Points: 5633
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/31/2017 at 10:08pm
Well, I did a wee test run with stiffness after some elongating the strut rod holes on the poly bushings.

Found a few wee issues. One is I may need to obtain a rubber bushing kit that includes the steel cups that fit between the bracket and bushing. It is to keep the poly bushings in place to lock against the bracket. Will end up trimming off the thin ring that was left from my modification, as the locating ring was sturdy enough before the modification.

Still will need to order Teflon washers, as the poly grabs the metal compression washers.

Also I may need to touch up the cups slightly as I did not use as much compression as I thought. So it is to allow just a wee less pressure against the ball.

All in all it did free up the stiffness when pivoted, and kept the rod in check to its proper angle of pivot. Floating pivot is no longer.

Also it works best with concave facing away from the bushings on both ends.

Though I think rounding the face a wee bit will assist with correcting enough to use the factory setup with concave flipped on one side only.

I will test further when I have time.

As a wee update... looks like a reshaping of the bushing face to the concave compression washer. Too bad the washer is not fully concave down to the hole. I cleaned up one washer and greased up the bushings face for the concave fitment against it. After a few movements of the rod by hand, it proved it needs the Teflon washers and the flat edge rounded. Looks like concave faced washers are the only way to go with this setup. It won't make it worse just keep things in proper function. Will also recommend using the metal seats for rubber bushings. Some kits have them others don't. Though I am not sure if there is enough clearance for the ball with them as of yet. May not be able to use them.

Edited by 304-dude - Sep/01/2017 at 9:46am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/29/2008
Location: Central Illinoi
Status: Online
Points: 5633
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/02/2017 at 6:49am
Almost done... more updates near the end of my page entry, to my Delrin poly bushing mod. With very good results.

Please note, the pictures were set by improper orientation of bracket assembly for better image clarity of components.

http://theamcforum.com/forum/topic53345_post789352.html#789352

Edited by 304-dude - Sep/02/2017 at 6:58am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/29/2008
Location: Central Illinoi
Status: Online
Points: 5633
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2017 at 8:35pm
Modding SN95 Hydroboost, Braking and Steering


Parts used: (98-04 can be used)

95 Corsica hydraulic clutch (aluminum body with Russell fitting)
96 Police Caprice / Impala SS - GM big bore front calipers (Mounted - Rear)
02 Explorer - 12" 4x4 rotors (Mounted - Rear)
01-04 Cobra - 13" rotors (Mounted - Front)
03/04 Cobra - Front disc calipers /w brackets (2 complete sets for dual setup)
04 Mustang GT/Cobra - Hydroboost unit
15 E350 SD - Remote power steering reservoir (3 port)
Additional reference for completing a full Ford setup: Installing a C-III pump

Setup Mounting:

Will remove hydroboost mounting plate for modification to allow header clearance. Studs will need pressed out, along with new holes drilled for 3-1/2" mounting centers, at the centerline of the Hydroboost mounting hole.

Setup Brake Line Connections:

I will leave ports alone and lines setup like stock 04 Mustang setup, minus the proportioning valve.

The hydraulic clutch master cylinder will engage the secondary front disc calipers independently if the brake pedal is not engaged, else will work as a slave to the brake pedal as one engagement.

An in line brake bias valve on the rear brake line, and a few other brake hardware enhancements will be used as things are tied into place.

Brake Fluid Reservoir Mods:

Easy mod on any Ford master cylinder reservoir. Cut off the wee tabs that are 180° apart located inside the fill neck. They are to keep the float body in place when upside down. Once removed the barrel float body will drop out. Will make access for cleaning out much easier. For me it will allow for more capacity to leave it out. I made even more capacity by cutting out the float cylinder top half. A heated Exacto knife cuts it out in 1/4 sections.

I also removed the low fluid sensor switch at the bottom for flipping the reservoir 180°, so I can test with mounting pointing 15° down angle to see if it gives good clearance. Though I will test firstly with pointing 15° up angle (Stock Mustang), as I want to place header pipe heat away from the reservoir.

Here are the parts I removed for modification.



This is the inside of fill chamber, with the low fluid float and the upper half of the cylinder removed.



Notice there are many chambers to keep fluid from sloshing about and sending false signals by the sensor. Opening up the sensor area can assist in allowing more fluid reserve, and quicker response to the demands of the braking system in track use.


Master Cylinder Mods:

Found I will have to take the master cylinder off and disassemble, to modify the rear brake to function like the front brake section.

The reservoir port is an area of needed change in function, so enlargement of the fluid feed hole for the rear port is required. Notice that the front brake bleed has a pin to keep the assembly in place when the C-clip is removed. These master cylinder bodies are used in just about every model car and truck for the years produced, some have a bleed hole for the rear brake pressure. After further review, the pin is a semi loose fit, so I guess the wee bleed hole is to equalise the differences between the pressure lost by the diameter of the semi loose fitting pin.

Here is a picture of the internal components and pin.



Note: I am going with minimal mods to the master cylinder, since they can be very effective in allowing large bore disc brakes to function on the rear wheels along with dual caliper fronts. I have reversed the seal (OEM placement, has a seal not facing forward in the bore) on the front piston so pressure from the larger throw for the rear piston will bleed into the front, to equalise some of the differences in displacement during engagement. What I am doing is removing most of the delay in independent function. As long as I keep the springs in place there will be some independent action between the front and rear pistons. Having rear engagement be quickly applied for stock purposes, will defeat some of the requirements of large disc calipers at the rear.

Here are the two feed ports of the master cylinder. To the right notice the pin in place, and the differences between the feed holes between the two ports.




For now, if repairing a limited run master cylinder on late model cars, is not so easy, as seals are not being available to parts sources. If keeping factory correct with markings and such, buying a rebuilt unit with a lifetime warranty for swapping seals would be your only option for now.

This is a low milage 04 Mustang GT/Cobra master cylinder, so everything should be like new inside. A tare down will verify and allow for cleanliness, especially when using a used item.

Pictures and further information to come.

Edited by 304-dude - Dec/06/2017 at 8:50am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/29/2008
Location: Central Illinoi
Status: Online
Points: 5633
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/24/2017 at 10:24am
I have updated my changes, and cleaned up a few errors, along with some assumptions on my recent entry. Since many views have been done since I first posted yesterday.

After a bit of looking at ratios, volume and function of the pistons on the Ford and Chevy master cylinder's, I realised simple mods 1st and if need be, some changes can be done to sort out any issues.

At least the layout is coming along and easy to follow.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/29/2008
Location: Central Illinoi
Status: Online
Points: 5633
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2017 at 8:45pm
To give an idea of what is going on so far... 2-1/4" between springs and rim edge, though the springs are about 1" further out than stock, for my mods with rear mounting, thus he ability to use 10" wide 2015 Mustang GT wheels, but... there will be some mods needed to the sheet metal as expected.

One is removal of the trim lip and rolling the contour of the wheel opening out at the top inch or so, just enough for clearance for maximum wheel travel. Then finish it off with blending the body to fill in the gaps at the lower front and rear for that 70's fat Vette look. It Is a wee more flair than I expected, but I forgot I moved the spring pads out so much to compare fit with body. I put too much into clearance when selecting, so this issue was a given once that had settled in my brain.

I assume the same changes will be for the front fenders as well.

The picture below shows how far I have with the rim edge and body, though it is off from viewed angle, so the wheel looks to protrude more than what it is. The rim will rub the lip for the trim, but it will require another 1.2500" more bulge for covering the tire without rub. I can deal with that, just expecting anymore, would be less than desired for my setup.



12" rear discs look a wee small now. Ha!



2-1/4" free clearance for tires. Yes i used trailer spring plates and U-bolts. Wanted the most secure and stout setup possible for maximum stability the plates are so much bigger that they flatten put the spring arc when clamped down.



For cheap wheels they are well packaged, never had low to mid priced new wheels shipped so well. Removed the plastic they were bagged in, to show the soft fiber liner and nylon snap on lip protector. The only cheap part of the packaging is the box. Either double box or use a heavier box, and it would be considered a premium wheel. These boxes tear easy at the handle holes.

Wheel construction seems better than expected. Knowing they are pressure molded and heat treated before finishing, but it seems the paint is powder coated. Or something like it, as it seems to be bonded to the aluminum. Thin but durable. I purposely rolled the edge at the back lip on the cement, and it did not scratch up like the factory Ford Racing wheels I had. The whole wheel was done in matte black, and the face was machined in the final process.



Yep, Ford hydroboost almost ready to mount. Bad news... must grind the factory master cylinder hole on the firewall, oval. Mounting the Hydroboost unit with Mustang upward tilt will not only be about .7000" offset towards the top, but the threads to clear the opening need about 1/16" more diameter. There are other issues as well. Mainly the nut is huge, and will require a spacer to keep the hole close as to factory size as possible.



I have yet to fully make a decision on how I will install, looks like the upward tilt is what I want for header clearance. I think using the two top holes to mount on the firewall at the top two studs for the brake booster mounting, will need some slotting for the wider distance. The bottom can be trimmed after welding up the lower holes, and a new set of mounting holes can be done in alignment with the bottom two studs on the fire wall.



As for clearance with stock suspension humps, the setup clears, but I am not sure how well for small body AMC cars. Since I have a cowl hood, some if any protrusion with the upward angle of the master cylinder, should clear... Crosses fingers.

Edited by 304-dude - Dec/01/2017 at 5:26am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
tomj View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jan/27/2010
Location: los angeles
Status: Offline
Points: 1871
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2017 at 11:47pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:


Still will need to order Teflon washers, as the poly grabs the metal compression washers.

i have some surplus teflon sheet, about 1/8" thick, and make washers from it with a hole saw. big hole saw first (OD) then small hole saw or Greenlee punch for the center (ID).

did the same with some Micarta sheet for suspension spacers.

1961 roadster american
195.6 OHV, modded
T5z, 3.42:1 mustang axle
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/29/2008
Location: Central Illinoi
Status: Online
Points: 5633
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2017 at 5:06am
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:


Still will need to order Teflon washers, as the poly grabs the metal compression washers.

i have some surplus teflon sheet, about 1/8" thick, and make washers from it with a hole saw. big hole saw first (OD) then small hole saw or Greenlee punch for the center (ID).

did the same with some Micarta sheet for suspension spacers.



Hi, yep I figured one can do their own custom washer. I found a fairly close fit for the washers at a very low price, just did not realise how stiff they were, and how well and much they would compress the assembly. At least shaving them was for the most part all I had to do, outside of a wee ream of the center to fit over the sleeve.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
billd View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar
Forum Administrator

Joined: Jun/27/2007
Location: Iowa
Status: Offline
Points: 26188
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2017 at 8:17am
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:


Still will need to order Teflon washers, as the poly grabs the metal compression washers.

i have some surplus teflon sheet, about 1/8" thick, and make washers from it with a hole saw. big hole saw first (OD) then small hole saw or Greenlee punch for the center (ID).

did the same with some Micarta sheet for suspension spacers.

That's where having a fully-equipped wood shop upstairs can be an advantage - I can work with almost any material, from pine to oak to maple to plexiglas to laminate to teflon chunks or sheets to brass, zinc (I cut my zinc bars on the table saw- sliced them to the thickness I needed for use with plating) aluminum stock, whatever. I have a good variety of blades for the band saw and scroll saw, multiple hole saws including an adjustable size hole saw, various sanders - disk and belt, etc.
I often have to clean up almost as many metal or plastic shavings and dusts as I do wood. 
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 891011>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down



This page was generated in 0.063 seconds.
All content of this site Copyright © 2012 TheAMCForum unless otherwise noted, all rights reserved.
PROBLEMS LOGGING IN or REGISTERING:
If you have problems logging in or registering, then please contact a Moderator or