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Mega Modding Braking, Suspension & Steering

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/06/2018 at 12:29pm
Had some time, and cleaned up my Hydroboost section and added current info, and removed all the old stuff that I posted before making a final decision.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 6:44pm
Corrected brake section of changes and errors known during my updates. Added a wee bit more info about compatibilty and brake apply rod mod. Still working away on this... so mostly wanted to clear up things a bit.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2018 at 9:00pm
Made a boo boo!

Updated my actuating rod length mod, to the pedal and hydroboost setup, and a wee mod to the wee bracket when reversing it's mounting position on to the firewall, in order to mount the Hydroboost unit.

Originally I had a typo that I missed until recently.

I must have mis typed a key or my tablet auto corrected on me.

Plus my redoing my measurements corrected my cutting location. So i removed my image as it was incorrect.

Though my big boo boo, for now, is actually my lack of reference to the tape measure scale. I think after rounding I did not take in account the depth of the socket. So i am about 1/8" too short after rounding the tip.

It can be corrected later with a good weld blob and reshape.

OK,  I decided to add some stock pedal info here, rather than mix too much info for peeps to be confused by. 

I assume, since I no longer have a stock MC, the apply rod will need to be about 1" longer than the V8 Mustang rod, to raise the pedal more like stock. My pedals are set to be 2.250" inches from the floor board. Thus only 1/4" space when fully applied. Never got around with stock measurements as i never wanted to keep pedal heights stock to begin with. Since the GM brake pedal has stock apply rod position and length of the pedal arm, my measurements can be applied to a stock pedal, so GM pedals are not required. I chose them because they were an inexpensive option that did not take much to modify to work with.


Edited by 304-dude - Apr/27/2018 at 5:44pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2018 at 8:41pm
Added big azzed brakes to my build, yes you can fit 14" rotors under 17" rims, though I no longer have mine to show. Can mock up my 18" rim once I complete the mounting brackets. Basically the trick is not to use big arsed stationary calipers.

Images added along with a new addition to the index. Since my rims are 18" S550 Mustang fit, they require 14mm studs or cheat and use GM lug nuts which are the same size as Ford (7/8"), but are 1/2"-20 thread. Though nobody here will be doing such a wheel swap, but it can be done, without the radical change I have done to my suspension.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2019 at 8:43pm
Removed since recent updates include info posted previously.

Edited by 304-dude - Aug/08/2019 at 11:12am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2019 at 6:19am
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Edited by 304-dude - Aug/09/2019 at 10:01am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2019 at 12:10pm
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Edited by 304-dude - Aug/09/2019 at 10:01am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/08/2019 at 5:33am
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Edited by 304-dude - Aug/09/2019 at 10:00am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/08/2019 at 6:16am
Just an observation after a quick read...
Since you are basing this on a short Mustang II spindle (short between ball joints, IIUC... If I Understand Correctly), and you are using a spacer to increase the distance, why not use a taller (again, IIUC) AMC spindle instead? MII spindles are cheap and easy to find, and there are more brake options, but there are enough brake options with the AMC spindle, IMHO. Might cost a little more, but not after adding cost of the MII spindles. A moot point for you, you already have the MII spindles. Once you get through with all your calculations I'd like to see how using the AMC spindle instead would affect things. Would you still need a ball joint spacer? I know there are some other differences between the two spindles, such as where the actual spindle is located in relation to the ball joints.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/08/2019 at 6:54am
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

Just an observation after a quick read...
Since you are basing this on a short Mustang II spindle (short between ball joints, IIUC... If I Understand Correctly), and you are using a spacer to increase the distance, why not use a taller (again, IIUC) AMC spindle instead? MII spindles are cheap and easy to find, and there are more brake options, but there are enough brake options with the AMC spindle, IMHO. Might cost a little more, but not after adding cost of the MII spindles. A moot point for you, you already have the MII spindles. Once you get through with all your calculations I'd like to see how using the AMC spindle instead would affect things. Would you still need a ball joint spacer? I know there are some other differences between the two spindles, such as where the actual spindle is located in relation to the ball joints.


Hi farna,

Ah, its been a long long time... in a different forum, back in 2003, you gave info on doing a Mustang II spindle with Mustang GT rack. This was to compensate for not having Pacer arms.

Yes you can use the AMC spindle, with a slight mod with using Chevy truck upper ball joint, which will space the distance to about 10.60" roughly as it has a longer pin and is beefy (which is better for raising the drop point possiblely to around 1/4" of a drop, since its KPI is narrower... though, i never thought about measuring the spindle, when i had it, for comparison between the Shelby Drop locations.

You will have to place my ball joint at the bottom of the arm to like AMC, but will need to modify some radius of the ball joint or the end of te arm along with adding new mounting hole locations.

Key points...

Spindle location has no effect between ball joints. Just need the proper distance between the ball joint end of the arm, for angles at the body pivots.

The big difference is spindle KPI between them. As it will effect set angle and raise the drop even more.

Mustang II spindles come in 10° and 7° aftermarket varients. Also pre 74 Pinto pinto spindles are junk.

I had found a few sites about Mustang II suspensions, and only a few peeps knew enough to state the spindles are good, its the proper setup that is junk. Most custom drop in kits use Mustang II setups, and don't bother redesign work. The only redesign work i see needed is proper spacing between ball joints, and upper arm placement, for the drop required for setting your suspension.

A shelby drop is not part of the equation, it just becomes commonly used term to justify arm placement, for suspension needs.

My needs were set long ago... 5° at rest with no more than 2.5" of travel. Placing all the measurments in vector format allowed finding proper placement of upper arm.

If you have an AMC arm, you can post KPI info and ball joint end spacing from their control arms, which I am guestimating to be about 9.9" or less. With a chevy truck upper ball joint, it will be about 10.6" give or take depeding on top or bottom placement of the ball joint components. Top mount was my choice for ease of mods.



Edited by 304-dude - Aug/08/2019 at 11:55am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
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