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Measuring Clutch Housing Shaft Alignment

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    Posted: Nov/15/2007 at 12:58am
I have been studying the cluch replacement procedure for my 1968 AMX 390.
 
All seems pretty much straight forward with the exception of the measurement of the clutch housing runout in regards to the bell housing.
 
The TSM indicates using a Clutch Shaft Aligning Tool J-22056 and a dial indicator set J-8001.
 
I do have a nice Snap-On clutch alignment tool kit with arbors and such.  I do not know if it will fit the AMX however??  But hopes are high that it will.
 
ALso, the picture of the special dial indicator set J-8001 is confusing to me.
I do have a dial indicator set with magnetic base and arm.
 
My questions are as follows....
 
Will I need the J-22056 alignment tool, or will my Snap-On set work?
 
Can I use my dial indicator and magnetic base?
 
What do you guys do to insure the clutch is aligned?
 
Where do you get the shims btw?  (I do have a slew of front disk caliper shims for the AMX and I suppose they could work in a pinch??
 
All ears for advice...
 
Art
 
 
Art In Connecticut

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1968 AMX 390 4-Speed

1991 ERA Cobra Replica - 428 & Toploader

2016 Tesla P90D with Ludicrous Mode

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Menace SS/AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/15/2007 at 4:43am
 
Art
I personally have never seen the need to use a dial indicator to install/align a clutch. I've always just used the standard pilot alignment tool or a trans input shaft to align the disc and never had any problems. I'ts really kind of hard to screw it up. I'm sure there are some that will disagree with that or do things different.  
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1968 AMX (Craig Breedlove AMX600)
1969 SS/AMX Replica of(THE Big Menace)
1969 AMX 390,auto,Go Package    
1970 AMX 390, 4 speed
1970 Javelin 401(Big Bad Red)
1968 AMX (FOR SALE)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/15/2007 at 4:46am
Ditto.
I simply used my Craftsman alignment tool with the correct end screwed on, centered the disk, tightened the clutch plate using a star pattern, using about 3 or so iterations around to do it gradually to be sure I didn't crank it down on one side, them crank down the next, etc. Do like you would if installing a head or wheel.
I've never had a need for anything more.
And that alignment tool is just to make it simple to get the tranny back in, otherwise, first time you release the clutch, that disk will release and re-center anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 12Gauge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/15/2007 at 9:44am
Guys,
I think I may have lead you astray with my questions....
 
The dial indicator is used (according to the TSM) to make sure the bell housing is aligned correctly and you use some shims to adjust the bell housing to be perpendicular to the trannie shaft.
 
So they use their special clutch alignment rod and the dial indicator to take measurements from. 
 
I hope I have somewhat made this clearer?
Art In Connecticut

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1991 ERA Cobra Replica - 428 & Toploader

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Menace SS/AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2007 at 3:37am
Originally posted by 12Gauge 12Gauge wrote:

Guys,
I think I may have lead you astray with my questions....
 
The dial indicator is used (according to the TSM) to make sure the bell housing is aligned correctly and you use some shims to adjust the bell housing to be perpendicular to the trannie shaft.
 
So they use their special clutch alignment rod and the dial indicator to take measurements from. 
 
I hope I have somewhat made this clearer?
 
 
 
I personally have never found it necessary to shim a bellhousing in anything. (AMC, Chevy, Dodge, Jeep) 
Confused
Dennis
My AMC Stable
1968 AMX (Craig Breedlove AMX600)
1969 SS/AMX Replica of(THE Big Menace)
1969 AMX 390,auto,Go Package    
1970 AMX 390, 4 speed
1970 Javelin 401(Big Bad Red)
1968 AMX (FOR SALE)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2007 at 4:27am
I'd also have an issue with shims as they are going to place "one corner" out or closer, and you are no longer mating flat machined surfaces.
I've done a ton of swaps and rebuilds, never have aligned anything, nor needed to.
If it's out of alignment, there's other issues - in my OPINION.........
I've also never seen a wear pattern that indicated anything was out of alignment..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 12Gauge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2007 at 10:23am

Today I finished buttoning up the AMX after the clutch swap.  I got the clutch kit from American Parts Depot which came with the throw out bearing and pilots and alignment tool.

When I took off the bell housing, there were no shims between it and the block so that is the way I put it back togeather.  The throw out bearing clutch arm was in very good shape (the nibs at the end being nice and round).
 
I did send the flywheel out to be resurfaced.  The machine shop performed what they call a "blanchard ground" or centerless resurfacing. 
 
It all went togeather very reasonably.  However the T-10 is quite heavy and awkward to wrastle out even with a trannie jack.  I had my 6 ton jack stands about 25" up but I sure could have used a full side lift for doing this procedure to be frank.
 
The new clutch feels very good with no "judder" and my rear wheels will spin in first just by applying the go pedal.
 
Art In Connecticut

Nothing Lasts Forever... If you give it enough TIME

1968 AMX 390 4-Speed

1991 ERA Cobra Replica - 428 & Toploader

2016 Tesla P90D with Ludicrous Mode

2011 Volvo XC60
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2007 at 2:14pm
Glad to hear all went well and you're back on the road leavin' tire marks Cool
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 12Gauge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2007 at 10:57pm
Phatty:
Now that the new clutch is in place, I did notice that my adjustable  throw out rod link (the one that connects the throw out lever to the idler lever) now needs just about full adjustment in the long dimension for correct clutch pedal free play (about 1").
 
This kind of makes sense as the throw out lever is now more towards the front of the car (when the clutch pedal is not depressed) with the new "thicker" clutch.
 
Does that seem correct?
 
 
Art In Connecticut

Nothing Lasts Forever... If you give it enough TIME

1968 AMX 390 4-Speed

1991 ERA Cobra Replica - 428 & Toploader

2016 Tesla P90D with Ludicrous Mode

2011 Volvo XC60
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2007 at 2:25am
I've always had an automatic.  Lack experience setting up manuals and clutches.
 
Does it say anything in the TSM ?  Sorry I'm unable to help Embarrassed
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