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M35 Flash-O-Matic |
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amxmachine
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Sep/27/2011 Location: walton new york Status: Offline Points: 1596 |
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Just got my t35 back from local reputable rebuilder $810.00 uninstalled with new torque converter 1 yr warenty unlimited milage |
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vinny
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837 |
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For the Z spring imagine a strip of about 26 ga. stainless 1/8" wide folded back and forth every 1/2". I tried posting a picture but have been having trouble lately doing it. I have a feeling maybe it goes at the base of the teleflex cable but haven't got there yet. Other parts I know are missing are the balls used for the speedo drive gear, and maybe something else, as well as a T the old fellow was talking about that is used to lock the rear pump gear to the shaft. He said he has them in a pill bottle somewhere and he will also call the shop that took it all apart to see if they still have the pan.
$800 IMO is a fair price. T/C $80; master OH kit including steels, frictions, rings, seals $85; bands $35 ea; bushing kit $55; Torrington thrust bearings? Have I forgotten anything? So the cost outlay for the shop is up to $300 and more likely closer to $200, which leaves them $500 to $600 for labour. |
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vinny
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837 |
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Upon returning home yesterday the shaft rings were in the mail so I could go further with the assembly. What to watch for is that those shaft rings are quite soft and they open up when sliding them on. They had to be worked into their grooves a bit.
In starting the assembly the tail shaft goes in first. Some of the parts I am missing for it can go on later. Once the sub-assemblies are built it goes together quickly. The TSM says to use Lubriplate to hold the thrust bearings and spacers in place and to use caution seating the rings when the sub-assemblies go together. Following the correct sequence with bands, clutches, planetary assembly, center support, front pump, and with a little bit of gentle wiggling, they all slide nicely into place. I've still got an end play measurement to take and servos and valve body and linkage to go on, as well as the tail housing stuff. |
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pacerman
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9057 |
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Vinny,
I parted out a T-35 (M35) and saved a bucket of small parts including a valve body that has never been opened. If you want them you can have them for the cost of shipping. At least one of the servos is there. Joe |
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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The original 63 or so rings were cast iron, the replacements are Teflon. The trick to installing them is to cake vaseline or axle grease on them, put a hose clamp or similar around them, then stick the shaft in the freezer. Once frozen (overnight?) take it out, remove clamp, and slide right in. You can break a ring without knowing it when you assemble the hard way -- I did. The thing is of one is broken or cracked you'll never know. Doesn't seem to affect operation. IIRC there is a stack of three... The only reason I knew one was broken is that I had to take the things back apart. I had a VB problem, not an internal one. I rebuilt it and still had the same problem, wouldn't shift out of first or reverse. A new VB solved it.
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Frank Swygert
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vinny
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837 |
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All the lock rings I am using are cast iron. The big ones are easy because they kind of lock together like hooking your finger tips together. You push one end into the groove and while squeezing around the ring to make the diameter smaller, lift the other end up and over to lock it. Then they slide into where they are supposed to go quite easily.
I had a little set back with those small cast iron rings on the sun gear shaft again. Broke one so had to re-order. Nice tip on using a hose clamp to shrink them in a bit first.
If one of the rings were broken the transmission would probably not produce adequate pressure for the clutches to hold. The TSM calls for a pressure check when all is said and done. Its a nice feeling when the front pump is bolted on and the pile of parts on the bench is considerably smaller. |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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The sealing rings on the shaft are what I was talking about, not the lock rings. The kit I had years ago replaced the cast iron sealing rings with teflon rings. I'm surprised kits have the iron rings -- you'd think the teflon rings would be easier to make as well as last longer and seal just as good (if not better).
I'm not so sure one broke ring would make that much difference in pressure. Mine was working fine with one broke ring (I think there is a stack of three?). It may not have been holding as much pressure as it should have, and it may have caused problems as all the parts got some wear though... no way of knowing! I didn't know I had a cracked ring until it was taken apart again. Wasn't shifting right after I rebuilt it. The shop said I did a good job, just that one broke ring. Problem was a faulty VB, which had to be replaced. |
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Frank Swygert
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vinny
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837 |
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Interesting, nylon rings would probably make it easier. But with your tip of using the hose clamp it works good on setting those little iron rings too.
I think the important thing to say here is, although we may have a hiccup here and there these transmissions are really quite fun and easy to work on. Confidence builds with every piece that goes on.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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It has to be one of the easiest trannys to rebuild. Good thing is all the other BW models are similar. If you can build an M-35 you can build an M-12. The older M-8 and M-10 area bit different, but mainly in the valve body (pressure regulator).
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Frank Swygert
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vinny
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837 |
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