m12 shift kit

have the bands relined or use Ford medium case bands. You can get the bands in any material you want.

I would take anything to improve the performance of my M11B. I,m still going to have problems with getting enough vacumm for tranny to work right due to the size of cam I chose.. I should have just had end of crank shaft drilled so I could switch trannys but to late now motor is together and running..Any suggestions on how to improve vacuum to tranny would be greatly appreciated .....THX

The valve bodies are the same between column shift and console shift cars. The difference is the selector shaft arm is reversed between column and console shifters. I would assume that you could swap out the selector shaft or possibly it can be flipped ??
BTW AMC began a shift improvement campaign in these transmissions that started somewhere in the 69 model year. I've never found what the changes were but I think they incorporated the parts that were in the shift kit. There was more to it than that though as the 2 to 1 forced kickdown speed or the 2-1 manual shift down speed was raised considerably, but still not enough to satisfy a performance oriented driver. On my 68 343 AMX that Ross now has (where I added the kit) the 2 to 1 kickdown was disabled somewhere over 10 to 15 mph. The kit did not change that. My 69 AMX with the same drive train and it clearly has the factory shift upgrades, will do a 2-1 kickdown up to about 20 mph and a manual pull down a little higher than that.
With both my 68 and my 69 I raised the modulator adjustment pressure beyond the factory setting. I did not use a trans. pressure gauge, I simply tweaked and road tested until I got it where I wanted it. It's been running almost 40 years at that increased pressure and not one hint of trans. problems. The full throttle 1-2 and 2-3 shifts in "D" range are right before redline ( about 4850 rpm ) and are very positive.

A characteristic of these trannys though as that even when manually upshifting 1 to 2 or 2 to 3, that unless you're at full throttle OR above the road speed and rpm, where the upshift would occur normally, the shift is delayed between when you move the lever and the trans. actually shifts.

In this respect the Shift Command's don't differ from the Flash O Matic's from 67 on back. The only real difference between the SC and the FOM's was the shift quadrant designations of P R N D2 D1 L and P R N D 2 1. All operating functions were the same except for D2 and 2. D2 and 2 both start the car in second gear. D2 allows the automatic upshift to 3rd and 2 does not. Ford made the same change in their automatic transmissions at about the same time. Before they went to the standardized P R N D 2 1 arrangement they used P R N (Small white dot, D2) and (Large white dot with green center, D1 ) and L. No surprise really as the Ford FMX is essentially the same as the BW M-11, M-12's.

Edited by george w - Apr/16/2017 at 7:36am

Did you try backing out the pressure adjusting screw in the modulator ? I'm not aware of "different" modulators available for the M-11 & M-12. You should have the "large" can modulator that's adjustable. I don't know though how much you can lower the line pressure within the range of that adjustment screw. Have you experimented at all with the adjusting screw ? The modulator has to track the engine vacuum range to get the shift points and pressures in the proper range. If your cam is that radical then maybe you should convert to a manual trans.

What does your valve body resemble? The caked and intrusive unsquare shape that plagues every Borg Warner automatic or is it more like my FMX



I get the feeling you'll know when you see it.

Maybe it's just easier to bolt up an FMX and be done with it. 1-2 upshift is hard and strong, 2-3 upshift is soft, 3-2 downshift is fair but good, 2-1 downshift is slow and soft. Engine braking may become a usual thing with the full manual conversion.