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Loctite on Motor mount studs? |
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348AMX 
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 4165 |
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 Topic: Loctite on Motor mount studs?Posted: Jul/11/2007 at 9:36am |
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Yes or no. I know the original ones were a B to unscrew so I think the factory used something on them, the rust probably had more to do with it, I have all new hardware mounts restored brackets and washers. I am thinking Loctite blue wouldnt hurt on the mount studs and bracket to block bolts.
What about the Bellhousing bolts; loctite blue on those or is that overkill? I'll definately be using Loctite red on the felxplate bolts, even with the the "lock ring" under the bolts-(the one that acts like one big washer tying together the flex plate bolts) The original bolts had to come off with an air wrench so the factory had some serious thread lock on the bolts. I did get new flexplate bolts though. I'll be installing the mid plate(the one with the removable metal cover to access the torque converter)
bolts this week-already painted the visible part to match the engine- and torquing down the flex plate.
Any other tips. Should be dropping in the engine this weekend! Edited by 348AMX - Jul/12/2007 at 3:51am |
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PHAT69AMX
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Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5919 |
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Posted: Jul/11/2007 at 11:28am |
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I've never used loctite on any of those bolts and haven't had any problems.
Have used split lockwashers, but no loctite.
No lockwashers on flexplate bolts, but torqued to 110 in 4 steps.
Guess you have a TSM with all the torque specs.
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348AMX
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 4165 |
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Posted: Jul/11/2007 at 12:16pm |
I do, but mine says 105 for the flexplate bolts. Is there a sequence you follow to tighten them? DO you use the "bolt ring" in front of the flex plate, this definately gets the flexplate torqued down evenly against the crank? The borgwarners have this, but arent you using A Chrysler trans?
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6768rogues
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6237 |
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Posted: Jul/11/2007 at 12:35pm |
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I have experienced so many things loosening up over the years that I use Locktite on almost all fasteners, with the exception of things like head bolts. The bolts are still removable and if they are a hard to remove, a little heat releases the Locktite. It has been my experience that a large number of factory bolts have some type of thread locking compound on them. Just my opinion, and I am an expert on my opinion.
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348AMX
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 4165 |
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Posted: Jul/11/2007 at 1:55pm |
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Here are some pics of the Flexplate and new bolts. I painted the bellhousing bolts to match the engine after cleaning them up. The 2nd picture is the "midplate" when installed it is facing the front of the engine the bottom half is visible from under the car so I just coated the whole side, I can't believe I am finally getting this thing back in the AMX!
I'll use some loctite on the motor mounts and flexplate. I checked again and my manual says 100-110 for the flexplate to crank bolts. What are the torque specs for the bellhousing bolts. The top bolts are smaller so I assume the torque for those is less than the bigger bolts that go through the dowels? Thanks Edited by kirkwood - Jul/13/2007 at 7:34am |
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348AMX
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Posted: Jul/11/2007 at 2:02pm |
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Also is there a particular sequence to follow when tightening the flexplate bolts, the bolts arent even equally spaced! Crisscross? Clockwise? Thanks.
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poormansMACHINE
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Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: Shoemaker-Levy9 Status: Offline Points: 12302 |
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Posted: Jul/11/2007 at 2:06pm |
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I would use a liberal amount of loctite on the torque converter bolts.
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PHAT69AMX
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Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5919 |
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Posted: Jul/11/2007 at 2:38pm |
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Yes, 727 Trans, and use the Bolt Ring with the Flexplate Bolts.
Flexplate onto Crank Flange, then Bolt Ring, then Bolts.
Yes, non-symetrical Pattern, aligns only 1 way since AMC's
are externally balanced and there's a weight on the flexplate.
Tighten in ~4 steps and in a criss cross pattern like lug nuts.
Used a file and stone to clean all burrs from surfaces.
Using a B&M 3000 Stall 10" SuperHoleShot Convereter
which came with "Hemi" 7/16 Bolts, torque to 80 ft. lbs.
in ~4 steps but did not go criss-cross on converter bolts.
The Starter is grounded thru the motor & MidPlate.,
Had painted it, but ended up stripping back to bare metal
to ensure a good ground for the starter.
TSM says 25-28 ft. lbs for Bell Hsg to Block Bolts
but does not indicate different values for the different sizes. Edited by PHAT69AMX - Jul/11/2007 at 2:40pm |
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348AMX
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 4165 |
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Posted: Jul/11/2007 at 11:09pm |
I didnt think of that but I only painted the side that is visible when installed so I'll sand down the contact surfaces on the painted side to be safe-thanks for the tips. Your AMX is quite the warrior, nice combo , mine is going to be a bit milder 2500-2800 stall converter, 272 cam, roller timing chain roller rockers etc etc. Rick and Jim took extra care to CC everything lots of math involved that was way over my head LOL, but everything was checked and installed properly, the correct geometry of the valvetrain was also carefully worked on, custom comp cams pushrods and machining of the stud bosses got it dead on! From reading your posts I know you take this same approach with your build ups. I'll post more specs when I get the printout. Edited by 348AMX - Jul/12/2007 at 4:03am |
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PHAT69AMX wrote: