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Laycock de Normanville OverDrive

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Rambler Mexicano View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jun/04/2016 at 2:21pm
Does anyone have any knowledge and/or experiencie with this accessory? I know it was avialable as optional equipment in 1975-1976 Hornets, Gremlins and Pacers as a fuel economy measure. It was used only with column-mounted three speed manual transmissions.

How effective/reliable it is in terms of fue economy or even performance applications?

I have a 1981 VAM Rally GT (Spirit GT) with a 282 cubic inches inline six cylinder. It is coupled to a TREMEC 176-F four-speed manual transmission with Hurst linkage and a Spicer axle with 3.31:1 rear gear ratio.

In highway driving, I try to keep my vacuumeter between 10 and 15 and my tachometer at 2000-2200 RPMs.

This is done with the point of keeping the highest efficiency in my engine, keeping stable not just the temperature but also the fuel consumption. Also, if I can make it to my destination in less time that would be great.

However, the problem I have is that at this point the speed I obtain is 90 kilometers an hour (56 miles por hour) in straight ground. Going uphill the speed drops to 80 kilometers an hour and going downhill it rises up to 100 kilometers an hour.

The legal speed limit in Mexico for straight highways is 100-110 kilometers and hour (62.5 and 68 miles per hour).

Can a Laycock de Normanville OverDrive unit be adapted/used in the 176-F transmission?

I know it was used in the 150-T model three-speed manual in the US.

I am really looking forward to both better highway fuel economy and higher speed with my car.

I thought about swapping the original 3.31:1 rear gear ratio in favor of a 3.07:1 used in other VAM cars, but I would lose towing capacity and standstill acceleration.

I considered swapping the 176-F transmission in favor a Jeep unit used behind the 4.0 engine (models: T5, AX-5 or AX-15). But, this would require several adaptations such as pushing back the transmission crossmember, shortening out the driveshaft and then rebalancing it, cutting-off a new shifter lever hollow on the transmission tunnel due to different position of it (and no Hurst linkage here).

All this seems to be also relatively expensive to achieve aside from the whole ordeal of adapting it. Also, we know that the Spirit already has a very short drvieshaft, I don't know if making it even shorted would affect anything or if there is some kind of limit into shortening it.

I need to know how much of an alternative using the LN Overdrive would be and if it can be used in my transmission. At first sight it seems to be less demanding in terms of adaptations.

I would also need to cut short the driveshaft for this, make the unit be fixed to the rear shaft of the transmission and have no idea of how to install the control of the overdrive in the inside of my car. I don't know if the fact that my car is a floor shift has anything to do.

If I can keep both my original transmission and original differential, this is the way I would choose to go.

Thanks in advance.


Edited by Rambler Mexicano - Jun/04/2016 at 2:29pm
Mauricio Jordán

Cuando no se es una empresa famosa se deben hacer mejores automóviles.
- Vehículos Automotores Mexicanos S. A. de C. V.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amc67rogue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2016 at 3:14pm
In the states there is a TREMEC 176 style USED IN Ford vans that was a side shift, 4th was overdrive.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2016 at 3:24pm
The problem would be this:
Quote

Can a Laycock de Normanville OverDrive unit be adapted/used in the 176-F transmission?

Unquote
And I think the answer would be no. That overdrive unit would have been some form of integral part as an option in VAM produced vehicles. It would not have been an option on U.S. vehicles at all. I believe the only overdrive ever offered would have been a Borg Warner unit and then it would have last been offered some where in the 1960's. And at that they were an integral part of the transmission.
It would not be practical to try to adapt it to something other than what it was offered on or with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2016 at 3:43pm
Donno as I am not familiar with such a question... though my cousin had a late 70s or early 80s Ford Courier truck with a 5 spd manual. He said it was not that common. Donno if the mounting can be done as a swap out. Though I would think them old Ford Courier trucks would be somewhat popular in Mexico.

I did a quick search... it is a Ford CR2 and was used around late 70s to early 80s on Ford and Mazda 2.2L 4cyls... they seem pretty stout, as I found a link on racing trannys that were built from CR2 5 spd trannys.

I noticed Aussies have plenty of them on ebay but take $$$. Though the rebuild kits are cheap. Go figure. For the money, rather buy a racing CR2 from the link I found than get one from Australia.

Edited by 304-dude - Jun/04/2016 at 4:00pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lucas660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2016 at 10:37pm
A gear vendors overdrive would work for your situation, but they are a bit expensive.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2016 at 1:34am
instead of thinking about the HARDWARE first, think about what gear ratios, and state of tune, that will get what you want.

you have something that is working now, perfect or otherwise. what change in gears/tune would you make?

then figure out what the least change is to get it. and what it costs.

if you really want to hack on transmissions, then do that, but i'd be clear on what is what. 

unless a gearbox configuration was available at some time, the chance of you "finding" a magical combination that the manufacturer has not already assembled somewhere is pretty much zero.

i think you will find that, while what "the factory" produced and sold is never even close to perfect, it is usually a pretty good compromise. from there, figure out what improvement suits your needs. all car design is compromise. good drag cars often suck at highway cruise. good rally cars suck at drag stuff. etc. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2016 at 7:08am
The overdrive will only fit the 150T. To make it fit your transmission requires a special adapter between the trans and OD unit and a special output shaft. Your best bet is to change the transmission to a five speed, either a Jeep five speed or Ford V-8 T-5. There are many articles on putting a T-5 behind and AMC V-8. The six has the same needs -- the AMC six bell is used to put a Ford T-5 behind an AMC V-8.

Your cheapest and easiest option is to change the rear axle ratio. You will lose some take-off and towing capacity, but you can't have everything!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2016 at 7:00pm
hey Rambler Mexicano, i apologize for my previous message, on re-read it sounds grouchy and impatient. i'm sorry about that. i don't mean to get in the way of pushing your luck and AMC's mix'n'match parts bin cars, i do it myself!

when AMC (etc) adapts a transmission, they can afford to have Borg Warner make a custom transmission mainshaft, or have them drill the case funny, because they could guarantee a minimum order of 10,000 or 100,000 units. some parts you can fabricate or modify, some you can't (short-hand for "really expensive and/or exotic custom work". making an output shaft is one of those. 

it is safe to say that you can't use your current transmission, as it is, with any OD unit. even a non-OD T96 has different internals that work with the OD unit (case and mainshaft), so you can't simply add a T96 OD unit to the back of a non-OD T96 without those parts. ODs "attach" quite intimately, they usually share the oiling system, and inter-lock the OD pawl business with reverse gear, and all sorts of invasive things.

there are (or were) external, after-the-transmission type OD units, but i think those are in the realm of exotic, you'll need weird coupling systems and again, a custom driveshaft, and likely body chopping.

if there existed at any time an LdN OD unit was ever attached to a T176, then you have a ghost of a chance to find the parts. if not, it's exotic work.

tasks like shortening driveshafts is considered common when adapting transmissions that didn't come from the factory. cutting clearances, fabricating shifters, adapting speedos, moving exhausts, wiring, all the little stuff that's in the way but not part of the transmission, that's all normal and assumed you'll do it. 

the only things that "bolt in" are factory options, and in good old AMC's case, due to their parts-bin approach to building cars, especially in the 60's, it's shocking what actually attaches fits and works for interchanges. 

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2016 at 7:15pm
"optimum" cruise is a combination of many things, but the big chunks: engine and cam, the two two gears in your transmission (or top gear plus OD), axle, tires. spark timing and carburetion too. carbs interact in this mess in an annoying way...

plus a lot of this is completely subjective, and depends on what compromises you'll put up with and how you drive and what you expect.

my first rule of thumb is to pick the RPM you want to be your constant, default, lazy, "best" "highway speed", for me it's 65 mph (lately i'm moving up to 70 mph). my old 1963 Classic had a Flashomatic (1:1 top gear), 3:15 rear axle, and 26" tires (195/70-14). 60 MPH was about 2450 rpm and for that car, it was great. i got 18 - 20 mpg long term average (years) at 60 mph. 70 mph was about 2900 rpm. i ran it that way for 21 years (on LPG, then a Weber 32/36 for a short bit, then a Howell TBI system for 5? years til i sold it).

by far, axle and tires are the easiest to change! axles are hard to find, maybe, but these generally meet the "just bolt in" criteria. when they don't -- i've done most stupid things you can do with axles -- the spring pads aren't compatible (iso mount and non) or AMC20 vs AMC15 (driveshaft and brakes etc). but even those you can sold with bolt-on.

all cars are compromises for some application. mine was strictly long-distance optimum cruise speed, often with a ton of crap in the car. it wasn't bad around town, but most people would have considered that car slow!

actually i
ll reply to your original post about the carb ....

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1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2016 at 7:28pm
Originally posted by Rambler Mexicano Rambler Mexicano wrote:

In highway driving, I try to keep my vacuumeter between 10 and 15 and my tachometer at 2000-2200 RPMs.

10 - 15 InHg vaccuum probably means your carburetor is running enriched, ruining mileage. the old general rule of thumb is, cruise speed should be at the highest manifold vacuum possible. 15" - 18". at 10, if you have a Holley or that AMC Motorcraft carb, the power valve is OPEN and it's sucking gas.

you also want as much spark advance as the engine will stand whenever you are "cruising", with vacuum advance. high vacuum really means low-pressure, not-dense air, with little fuel: lean condition. lean fuel burns slower than rich, it needs more spark advance. spark advance (until too much) ensures that the hot gas pushes the piston down, which *removes the heat*. late timing is the source of most highway cruise engine heat assuming nothing's broken; the heat goes through the head and into the exhaust.

Originally posted by Rambler Mexicano Rambler Mexicano wrote:

This is done with the point of keeping the highest efficiency in my engine, keeping stable not just the temperature but also the fuel consumption.

i would bring the revs up to 2400 - 2600 and even more. it's not harmful.

the problem with carburetors is, the engine may be more efficient mechanically (pumping, etc) at relatively low speeds, 2200, etc, and carbs could be too -- but for many other reasons carbs are set so that regardless of your "intent" when there's low vacuum the carb assumes you are accellerating hard. you can make them do otherwise but everything interacts.

Originally posted by Rambler Mexicano Rambler Mexicano wrote:

I am really looking forward to both better highway fuel economy and higher speed with my car.
 

bring RPMs up. i suspect now, you are "lugging" your car, it's enrichening, because the only way to get the HP necessary to cruise at 60 MPH (sorry for the English units, my car brain isn't calibrated metric :-) is to increase torque which means add fuel. POWER = RPM * TORQUE. lower RPM, raise torque... try raising RPM, lowering torque, eg. instantaneous fuel consumption, higher vacuum, leaner mixture, more spark advance.

Originally posted by Rambler Mexicano Rambler Mexicano wrote:

I thought about swapping the original 3.31:1 rear gear ratio in favor of a 3.07:1 used in other VAM cars, but I would lose towing capacity and standstill acceleration.

i think you are right. 3.31 is probably the correct ratio for your uses.  what size tires you have on back?


i strongly suggest using a spreadsheet on a computer to work this stuff out. i have one here http://worldpowersystems.com/AMC/trans-axle-tire-calculator.xls that i use. you can do "what if" without metal changing.



Edited by tomj - Jun/05/2016 at 7:31pm
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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