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Laser Welding AMC Iron NASCAR Heads

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jtsllc1 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Dec/06/2016 at 6:58pm
Yep it is true you can Laser Weld cast iron. No Furnace pre heat just room temp. After Galto gave me the low down on how bad it is to weld cast iron it basically boils down to the heat. So if we use laser welding for Mold Repair to eliminate heat distortion why not use the same process on cast iron.... I told Galto just imagine this was an option for a long time.... Just to take it one step further I can insert what ever I want in the ports giving it a Tool Makers touch...LOL....



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2016 at 7:11pm
I watched a spray weld done on cracked heads... room temp as well. Though they would pre heat with the welder the area before spraying in the repair.

I guess with rare iron there is no such thing as junk.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jtsllc1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2016 at 7:16pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I watched a spray weld done on cracked heads... room temp as well. Though they would pre heat with the welder the area before spraying in the repair.

I guess with rare iron there is no such thing as junk.

I'm going to flow test it just the way it is and run it.... ;) 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2016 at 7:26pm
I guess you are not hitting high RPM continuously. I would think it may cause an uneven charge in the cylinder using the intake throat in question. If I were to run it as is. I would keep at standard stroke and use it at limited 8K use. Just by gathering how much effects a good port from past threads.

Good luck with the flow test, I am sure the numbers wont be too far off from other ports. Just turbulance is my only concern with how things go with high volume flows.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jtsllc1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2016 at 7:28pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I watched a spray weld done on cracked heads... room temp as well. Though they would pre heat with the welder the area before spraying in the repair.

I guess with rare iron there is no such thing as junk.

Here is a picture where you can still see the cutter marks from the 5 axis CNC... We pressure tested with 60 PSI and then we are going to seal both heads water passages since the heads were N.O.S. and clean. I do not want them rusting from the inside out...LOL... We also sleeved the head bolt holes as you can see to the right and use a vacuum to epoxy seal the sleeve... It was at this stage we noticed a leak in the port...You could barely see the leak with a flash light coming through with the lights off.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jtsllc1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2016 at 7:36pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I guess you are not hitting high RPM continuously. I would think it may cause an uneven charge in the cylinder using the intake throat in question. If I were to run it as is. I would keep at standard stroke and use it at limited 8K use. Just by gathering how much effects a good port from past threads.

Good luck with the flow test, I am sure the numbers wont be too far off from other ports. Just turbulance is my only concern with how things go with high volume flows.

If turbulence was everyone's concern there would be a garbage can full of Torker intakes.... They sound like a bad kirby Vacuum cleaner... The EFI/4150 is smooth... I will see what effect the weld has when we flow it...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2016 at 7:40pm
Just thr picture makes it seem deep, though you mucst be there to properly gauge such things.

I thought torquers need some work... they can be bolt on, but racing intentions require some work done.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jtsllc1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2016 at 9:36pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Just thr picture makes it seem deep, though you mucst be there to properly gauge such things.

I thought torquers need some work... they can be bolt on, but racing intentions require some work done.

The weld at the highest is  about .025 he can wisk over it at the same time he goes over the 5 axis CNC cutter marks.

We did back to back flow tests ... One was a reworked Torker and one was the EFI/4150... Galto asked me do you hear that and I said I hear nothing he said exactly and that is another reason why the EFI/4150 will make more power.... He was right it did....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2016 at 8:03am
Interesting.  I didn't know this technique existed but after a brief internet search it's been used for nearly a decade.  In fact I found a site where BMW was investigating welding the ring gear on the center section rather than using the traditional bolted approach.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jtsllc1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2016 at 9:24am
Originally posted by 6PakBee 6PakBee wrote:

Interesting.  I didn't know this technique existed but after a brief internet search it's been used for nearly a decade.  In fact I found a site where BMW was investigating welding the ring gear on the center section rather than using the traditional bolted approach.

I have been using Laser welding for mold repairs since the Technology came out. I remember when Kopp Welding bought theirs from Germany. There is no pre heat of the steel and the sink is minimal I usually clean up with a stock removal of .0002 to remove any sink. When Galto the NASCAR guy went through all my options with the + and -. I had to think for a while do I want to patch with epoxy, furnace braze, heat it up and nickel weld or stitch it with pressing pins. Just like with a Tool if you heat it up to that degree you might as well start all over and throw all the work you did in the garbage.... I insert Plastic injection molds so I could also EDM  and press fit an insert in. So after thinking about it any repair requiring excessive heat is not an option.   I went to the welding supplier and bought some Nickel rod and showed up at the shop bright an early. I asked John who has been welding for me since the 80's if he has ever welded cast iron. He said yes and then I asked what about Laser welding and he said yes... So just like with the Plastic Injection Tools we weld and we seal. I use a pressurized ceramic seal on the Tools and there is no residue left. Lets just say Galto was amazed when he saw the weld and there was not one leak in the weld just some porosity in the casting which his sealer will take care of. He cranked the water jackets up to 60 PSI and all is good. I told him to run the sealer on both heads... Worse case scenario I would have inserted the area which was my option B.  I just thought I would share this info for anyone in need of repairing an Iron head with allot of work in it....
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