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K1 rod install
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SKeown View Drop Down
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Points: 3085 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SKeown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/14/2012 at 9:32pm
 
 
Originally posted by amx39068 amx39068 wrote:

Originally posted by SKeown SKeown wrote:

 
 Sending them back for a refund wasn't considered a viable option?

 

 SKeown


Just figured that is the way they were and couldn't imagine just one set would be that way. One rod out of a set, maybe but all 8, figured it was just crappy engineering.
 
 It was crappy engineering, that's why I would have got a refund.
 
 This engine build was the first indication Tom might not be the designer some say he is. How do the rods in this compare to you'rs? http://amcdragracing.freeforums.org/reviving-the-wannabee-t351.html
 
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identical to the ridiculous bias of the rod on the wrist pin on page 2. Not sure if he was willing to run them that way but I am not.
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Points: 3085 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SKeown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/14/2012 at 10:13pm
 
 Check out the bearing location on page 5, how does that compare to yours?
 
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Points: 11576 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/14/2012 at 10:33pm
The bearing in the picture on page 5 is very different from ours which was very close enough to the edge on the short side to the point that the edge of the bearing was riding on the crank chamfer rather than the flat surface. To remedy the problem and as others have done, we shaved .040 off that side of the bearing and that was the end of the problem. With the rod reversed, it was close to center on the pin and once we shaved the .040 off that side of the bearing all was good.

Edited by amx39068 - Dec/14/2012 at 10:34pm
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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THANK YOU ALL, it is to bad I'm learning all this from somebody's misfortune but I'm about 2 months away from purchasing these very parts for my build and this discussion has been extremely helpful.

Thanks Again, Mike  

1969 S/C Rogueler
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Points: 11576 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/15/2012 at 8:13am
If the rods you buy are from a recent batch you may not have the same issues. The batch mine were made from were manufactured incorrectly. Thankfully we were able to improvise which would have not been possible and a total PITA if Keith Coggins didn't have a lathe and if we didn't have spare rods to experiment with until were able to create the setup that made it possible to shave the bearings without damaging them.

Edited by amx39068 - Dec/15/2012 at 8:15am
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Points: 741 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcjarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/15/2012 at 8:22am
Well Iv'e been thinking on my combination for near a year, and it's probably changed 50 time's but I had pretty much settled on the Edelbrock package as the best value for street fun. Matter of fact I printed out info posted by SKeown some time back pertaining to decking the block etc to achieve my goals and K1 rods and Wiesco looked like the best value at that time,,,,,,,so your thinkin I would be safe today going that route ?

Thanks, Mike


Edited by mcjarv - Dec/15/2012 at 3:34pm

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And k1 is easier than using a chevy rod?
SC/Hurst Rambler

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Points: 11576 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/15/2012 at 9:41am
Originally posted by mcjarv mcjarv wrote:


Well Iv'e been thinking on my combination for near a year, and it's probably changed 50 time's but I had pretty much settled on the Edelbrock package as the best value for street fun. Matter of fact I printed out info posted by Skeown some time back pertaining to decking the block etc to achieve my goals and K1 rods and Wiesco looked like the best value at that time,,,,,,,so your thinkin I would be safe today going that route ?

Thanks, Mike



No way to tell. The K-1s in the engine we built were bought from a major supplier just 6 months ago and they were still NFG so you won't know until you get yours on a crankshaft.
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Points: 3085 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SKeown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/15/2012 at 10:31am
 
 The Molnar rods have a 100% money back guarantee including shipping cost. Being we know the K1's have been iffy, I would get the Molnar with the 7/16" ARP2000 bolts. They are availiable from Campbell Ent. and Flatlander for a little over $500.00. If the fit isn't right send them back rather than altering, that way they will address the problem.
 
 SKeown 
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