Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
Just looking for some opinions/insight. |
Post Reply | Page 123> |
Author | |
WdotDynamite
AMC Fan Joined: Jul/16/2014 Location: Columbus, OH Status: Offline Points: 19 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: Jul/16/2014 at 4:09pm |
Hello first let me say thank you to all that post on here, Ive been browsing for a while but just now registered.
Me and my father have a 1969 Javelin SST that we are in the process of getting race ready. It has a 360 in it right now, edelbrock intake and carb, hei distributor, nothing crazy as of yet. We don't have HUGE goals for the car as far as e.t. goes but I think the main goal is to get it into the 12s. I know this isn't a lot to go off but what would you guys recommend doing to get into the 12s. Any opinions or recommendations are greatly appreciated. Also as far as rear end goes. Would it be better to try and get like a Ford 9 inch for this car or to just upgrade the AMC 20 that is in it right now i.e. axles and posi unit. |
|
baklys
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: May/26/2008 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 520 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Low gear is important. Remowe the front stabiliser bar, and get cold air to the carb. Add an extra quart of engineoil, and check front wheel aligment.
|
|
Baklys
Live in Norway! -76 Gremlin X V8 -69 AMX 390 4 spd -70 Gremlin Race -63 Classic -and 4 more gremlins.. |
|
Ken_Parkman
AMC Addicted Joined: Jun/04/2009 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 1814 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Race car or street car that you race? Big difference.
If is is a race only car it is very very easy to make it go a bunch quicker. Weight reduction is ~ .1 second per 100 lbs, and you can get a lot of weight out of a car if you do not street it. And it can still look stock. I had 600 lbs out of my hornet without spending much money, and it still looked stock from the outside. Then things like an electric water pump drive and fan save hp to use at the rear wheel and more importantly allow you to cool it right down between rounds. Cold is fast. The most important part of the car for going fast is the torque converter. There is more performance in that per dollar than almost any engine modification. A good 9" will cost a fair amount. Depending on how fast you want to go the 20 will be fine with axles. But if it is a race only car do not use a limited slip - go straight to a spool. The limited slip will not survive with slicks and burnouts, and you will buy a spool anyhow. And the spool is lighter. With some weight reduction and a good converter a basic 360 will easily exceed your goals.
|
|
WdotDynamite
AMC Fan Joined: Jul/16/2014 Location: Columbus, OH Status: Offline Points: 19 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The car is definitely going to be a race car. We want it to be able to be tagged, but I highly doubt it will see much street other then an occasional cruise, don't see much freeway time with it. My uncle had the car for years and it sat in my grandmothers garage. My dad has been trying to get the car for years and my uncle basically just gave him the car recently. He sold it to us for 1500, this included the brand new bumpers that are still in bubble wrap...those were 1200 alone from what my uncle tells me.
I know of things we plan to do include removing gas tank for a fuel cell, electric fan and water pump, relocating battery to trunk....these are all things that were on our other cars. The transmission is a torqueflite 727, and my dad says he is leaning toward a 4.11 gear. But to answer your original question I would say race car that we can cruise very seldom in. |
|
Ken_Parkman
AMC Addicted Joined: Jun/04/2009 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 1814 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
A suggestion before you spend money on the 727 is throw it out. (sorta harsh, aren't I?). A 727 is a pretty poor tranny to go racing with cause of that giant drum. For a milder bracket race combo it's OK, but those things are dangerous. I have seen them explode and rip the floor out of the car and imbed tranny bits into the pavement. If you are serious racing with one replace the drum with a billet one.
Again it will never be a problem on a 360 bracket car unless you get into a lot of rpm. But a much better race tranny is a 904. Cause it does not have the same giant drum it is safer, and in race use more durable as long as it is built right. You don't have that giant spinning mass that the band has to stop instantly when you pull second, then instantly accelerate to engine speed when you pull high; very hard on the high gear clutch. The 904 works the same way, but the inertia is a fraction so it is a much better combo.
My suggestion is convert to a 904 (or 998) and have it put together by someone who knows 904 race trannies. They are faster to begin with, and also 30 lbs lighter. Then if you buy a good converter which is the expensive part you are good to go for almost anything.
The 4.11 is probably pretty good depending on the tire size. As your converter gets better and the car gets lighter you need less gear, but the smaller 360 will be OK with the 4.11.
|
|
WdotDynamite
AMC Fan Joined: Jul/16/2014 Location: Columbus, OH Status: Offline Points: 19 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Wow, thanks for the info on the 727. Im still learning things about AMC.Im reading everyday but up until just now I never knew the 727 could eventually become an issue. But it makes sense because my Dad did say it would need upgraded over winter.
My father and I are so eager to get out there however we are going to upgrade as we go. Right now we are just working to where we can run and not so much worry about the number.I would be fine with 14s to be quite honest just as long as we're racing! I have my doubts that we will even be ready to see the track with our "slow race car" until about September. And I know we aren't doing any major engine upgrades until this winter so Im going to take your advice for the winter when we really get into her. For now I doubt we are making a ton of power so hopefully the 727 can hold up at least for the rest of this season, however much is left once we are done. Thanks again. |
|
WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Online Points: 5807 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If it's already up and running, head down to the strip and get yourself a baseline, then you know where you are starting, it will also be gratifying to see how much you improve the car over time (I started out with mid 16's in my 69 343 javelin). This is completely backwards to what I've done, but start at the back and get your diff sorted first, 3.9 or 4.1 is probably around optimum for your average 1/4 mile, strip orientated setup, less gear will be a compromise if you need to run it on the highway. Then get hold of a set of drag radials or some slicks if that is your preference. That should see you well into the 13's with what you have now.
Burnouts in second gear will largely avoid the exploding 727 syndrome from what I hear.
|
|
WdotDynamite
AMC Fan Joined: Jul/16/2014 Location: Columbus, OH Status: Offline Points: 19 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yea basically what you just said is our approach. The car is running, we are going to rewire it this weekend, install the tach as well. The brakes aren't even hooked up so that is another thing we have to do. Other then that we just want to sand it and throw some primer on it so it looks decent and go!
My uncle has a stock SRT8 challenger that he is having problems launching, running 13.9s he is the one that sold us the car. To be able to outrun him with very minimum work would be funny but is not the goal at the time. It will be the goal next season, and unless my uncle plans to piss my aunt off by doing a bunch of stuff to his 30k Challenger it shouldn't be a problem. hahaha |
|
gremlinsteve
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/16/2008 Location: houston Status: Offline Points: 884 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Pick you up a summit 8600 cam
Ad some headers Exhaust A mild converter in the 2400 to 2800 area Toss some decent tire on it Amatbe a good 90/10 up front No sway bar Clamp the front halves of your rear springs and see what is does. Launch it at various rpm from idle up to 1600 plus Some cars like the idle launch, some do not Your going to need to fell out the car and learn what it likes. Make one change at a time also...good luck The car can do it with fairy ease Steve |
|
WdotDynamite
AMC Fan Joined: Jul/16/2014 Location: Columbus, OH Status: Offline Points: 19 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Im not sure if the car has a cam in it already, I want to say it has a mild one in. It definitely has a nice exhaust already with flowmaster mufflers. Im trying to find a good deal on some headers that will get us by until we pull the engine, after that we most likely will run hooker super comps.
I do have a question and forgive me for my ignorance, what do you mean 90/10 up front? And also what is the benefit of removing the front sway bar? You are not the first one I have seen to say remove it. Is it just to reduce weight? Thanks again |
|
Post Reply | Page 123> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |