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Is it junk..?? |
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BrotherBamc 
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Joined: Jan/22/2009 Location: Lewiston Status: Offline Points: 2248 |
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 Topic: Is it junk..??Posted: Oct/17/2016 at 6:45pm |
 Or is it worth saving..? |
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hassyfoto
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Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
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Posted: Oct/17/2016 at 6:51pm |
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How deep is the rust pits on the surface will determine if the part can be turned and saved. If the teeth have only surface rust, they can be cleaned.
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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
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pacerman
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9060 |
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Posted: Oct/17/2016 at 7:07pm |
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I didn't think Dr. Ballard would let anyone bring up any relics from the Titanic. Obviously, I was wrong. LOL Good luck with it. Joe
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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232jav3sp
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Posted: Oct/17/2016 at 7:31pm |
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You can always have it turned and measure the final thickness to determine if it is within the wear limits.
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BrotherBamc
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Posted: Oct/17/2016 at 7:57pm |
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Honestly...
I think it's a gone. Some spots are really thick rust... This is what I started with once I got the bell off... I thought that there would be a little rust, but I had no idea that it would be this bad.  Been sitting since 1991... |
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DaemonForce
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Posted: Oct/18/2016 at 12:59am |
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I would be taking my air grinder to that for like an hour.
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farna
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Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692 |
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Posted: Oct/18/2016 at 6:39am |
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It's a big thick chunk of steel. I'd take a wire brush on a drill to it and see if the teeth clean up, then knock most of the rust from the surface off. A few pits won't affect performance. Have it surfaced smooth, leaving any real deep pits (if there are any). Tell the shop just to smooth it to a usable thickness and not worry about any deep pits. I bet it will surface down smooth anyway. As I said, it's a pretty thick piece, and will take a good bit of surfacing unless it's been surfaced a couple times already. Now if this were a flexplate, you'd probably have to trach it.
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Frank Swygert
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BrotherBamc
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Posted: Oct/18/2016 at 9:02am |
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I am going to take it down today to the powder coating shop here in town. They have a sandblaster. I'd like to save it if I can. I'll keep you posted...
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tyrodtom
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Posted: Oct/18/2016 at 9:20am |
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I have a wire cup brush I put on a angle grinder that I take to problems like that, it's almost as effective as sand blasting.
That way I get a instant answer to just how bad the rust pits are. I used it last week on a Kenworth flywheel and pressure plate, they ended up being not quite as bad as we first thought.
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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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tomj
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Posted: Oct/19/2016 at 12:04am |
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could be junk, maybe not. i'm with others here, disassemble and see.
bang it to loosen, putty knife, wire brush, wire brush wheel, media blast and hot tank. the clutch is more likely to be junk than the flywheel, which has a lot of mass! umm, was it underwater? or what? how on earth did that happen? water in the trans? engine oil pan? is the unibody gone? its harrd to believe the problem would be restricted to the inside of the bellhousing. i imagine i'm not the only one who wants a bit more context. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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