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intake manifold removal |
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Balt 
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Joined: Jul/10/2019 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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 Topic: intake manifold removalPosted: Jul/04/2020 at 4:25pm |
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Anyone have any tips for removing the intake manifold from the engine while still in the car. I am trying to replace the valley pan gasket. I have found some videos but the engines are out of the car with easy access. I do not have and engine hoist as a resource.
I guess another question would be do I need to replace the gasket due to oil sepage by the intake manifold bolts. It feels like RTV was used on the back due to squeez out, cant feel any squeeze out on the front.
Its a 360 in a 1973 Javelin Edited by Balt - Jul/04/2020 at 4:37pm |
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AMXFSTBK390
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Joined: Oct/22/2013 Location: SF Bay Area Status: Offline Points: 3489 |
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Posted: Jul/04/2020 at 9:38pm |
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My 68 390 cast iron intake manifold weighs 56 pounds. Be careful you don't hurt your back. It is easier to remove the intake than install it. If it was me in your shoes I'd find a cherry picker and leveler to lower the intake into place. Back brace would come in handy about now.
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Questions are powerful tools...what's in your toolbox?
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Balt
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Joined: Jul/10/2019 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Posted: Jul/04/2020 at 9:57pm |
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I forgot to mention it is an Edelbrock Performa intake. I can't seem to break it loose, and I dont want to damage the aluminum.
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rell
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Joined: Sep/21/2008 Status: Offline Points: 83 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2020 at 7:07am |
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I had to do the same thing recently on a manifold that did not want to release. I ended up using the engine hoist attached to a carb lift plate. I would go easy since I was able to lift up the front end of the car with just the RTV holding the manifold in place! The RTV slowly released.
Chris
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Trader
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Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6881 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2020 at 7:37am |
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I've done it before with 2x4 across the spring perches and turnbuckles. Once loose though it really is a lot easier with 2 people for removal and installation. Doing it myself once loose and on re-installation was never part of the plan.
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304-dude
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Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2020 at 7:51am |
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Take a big flat blade and wedge it through the front corner at a 45 degree angle towards center, to get in between the rubber seal and manifold. Tap in in with a mallot. It will pop free. You may do alternating corners. It worked for me.
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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Balt
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Joined: Jul/10/2019 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Posted: Jul/11/2020 at 2:35pm |
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Thank you for all the advice I was able to remove it using the board and turnbuckle method. I now have other questions. I am in the process cleaning up the gasket material on the intake. Previous owner did not use a valley pan. I am going to use a valley pan.
I am a relative noob when it comes to auto repair past just doing oil and plug changes.
What is the center square hole on each side of the manifold for. It is between the 4 rectangle holes. What is the signifigance if there is a lot of carbon looking material there. What would the best way to clean that out? |
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Trader
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Posted: Jul/11/2020 at 2:45pm |
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Those holes are for the heat riser in the intake manifold. Many like myself will block them off for just a summer cruiser and if you live in a warm climate it also reduces ethanol fuel evaporation.
You can block them off with some intake gaskets by not removing the cut outs or with thin sheet metal (tin can). Just don't make the block offs too big or they can make your intake not sit properly. Set them in place with some high temperature silicone. Or, if the car was running fine, just continue using them.
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Balt
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Joined: Jul/10/2019 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Posted: Jul/11/2020 at 3:28pm |
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Thanks, the carbon buildup in there then is not a big issue
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