Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator Testing |
Post Reply | Page <1234> |
Author | |
304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I do believe they are the same for most instrument clusters.
Mine has about a 1 inch space between the two connectors. If by chance you need one, I can send you my extra one for $10.00 shipping included. |
|
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
|
mtwask01
AMC Fan Joined: Jan/16/2016 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 24 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
So I looked around the instrument cluster tonight and I found that piece lying on the steering column. I retrieved it, plugged it in and . . . Voila! functioning gauges. Do you know if there is a reproduction of these available? The one I have is worn and loosely fits on the pins. I'm afraid the same thing is going to happen down the road. I don't know that your spare used piece will be much better.
On the downside, I have another issue, which I don't believe is a huge deal. I reconnected the speedometer cable (what a pain that was) and now at low speeds the speedometer needle is bouncing back and forth very erratically. Do I just need to unscrew the cable and try again? Thanks again for the help! Matt |
|
304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Just lightly compress the folded tabs with a needle nose plier to make them snug again.
There is no need to have them reproduced, as they keep snug through the years, unless constantly removed or twisted off the pins, as most are so snug, peeps tend to be a bit forceful. They never wear out, as they are made of wound armature wire. The gauge is plenty enough not to burn up under load. The 4amp fuse protects the gauges and the coiled wire filter pretty well. |
|
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
|
BDCVG
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/19/2007 Location: Endless Mtns. Status: Offline Points: 993 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The speedo cable may not be seated all the way and it may also need some very light lube.
|
|
1970 AMX 390 5 spd full Control Freaks front and rear suspension
2014 E63 AMG-S wagon 1965 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III |
|
304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Speedo cable is sticky in the nylon sheeth. You can remove the cable from the tranny and carefully feed the speedometer end through the fire wall to clean it on the bench.
Not sure if you are willing... as there is some difficutly depending on how far you are willing to go. My speedo head was cracked from age, and was easy to remove from the nylon sheeth. I was able to remove the opposite end... not the same for 72 on up as auto transmissions changed. But should be similar. I was able to remove the drive wire and clean out the residue with paint thinner, and slide the drive wire back and forth through the sheeth. While adding more paint thinner. Until most of the debris was removed. I then wiped off the drive wire clean and let dry, and blew out the sheeth with compressed air in a can. Once everything was ready, I used synthetic wheel bearing greese and lubricated the drive wire and slid it into the sheeth while twisting, and pulled it through the opposite end. I ran it through about 10 times until there was enough greese to show coming from the opposite end from where I started. I always insterted the drive wire and pulled from the same end every time. Then I installed the ends and reattached. Even if the ends are loose, once installed there is no where the cable assembly can go. As long as the ends are connected the cable is secure. There are some who sell good used ones, but are limited by supply. |
|
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
|
mtwask01
AMC Fan Joined: Jan/16/2016 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 24 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Funny thing is that the speedo NEVER did this before I disconnected it. It seems like I did something wrong when I went to reconnect it. I just drove it and at speeds above 45 mph, the needle pegs all the way and bounces. When slowing down from say 20 to 25 mph, the needle bounces from the 0-30 mph readings.
I had a heck of a time getting the speedometer cable reconnected. It seemed like no matter how I positioned the cluster, the cable would not give me any slack. And it was a real pain to get the connector to thread onto the fitting. It seems to me that it should not have been this difficult to reconnect that cable and that maybe I distorted the cable upon reconnecting. Anyway, enough rambling. I am willing to do the work to get the speedometer working correctly, but I want to make sure it's not a simple fix first. Have you had difficulty when going to reconnect your speedometer cable? Is there a trick to getting it to seat correctly? |
|
304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
It probably is not seated to allow the hold down tab to set.
Try pushing in on the speedo cable from the engine bay. It should give a wee slack. Not much, but enough to rest the instrument cluster on the steering column and plug the speedo cable in. |
|
mtwask01
AMC Fan Joined: Jan/16/2016 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 24 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
So, I unscrewed the retaining clip for the speedo cable in the engine bay and that gave me a little bit of slack. I was able to remove the blank bezel beside the speedometer (non clock dash) and persuade the cable into the speedometer. I put the instrument cluster screws in and refastened the clip in the engine bay. I took it for a drive and the speedo is functioning as it did before. No bouncing, pegging, clicking or other strange behavior.
Thanks again for the help! You've been spot on with just about everything. |
|
mtwask01
AMC Fan Joined: Jan/16/2016 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 24 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I almost forgot. I took some needle nose pliers and compressed the
terminals on that bridge connector. It now fits fairly snugly onto the
pins and I am a lot more confident that it will stay this time (fingers
crossed).
|
|
304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Great to hear it worked out for you. Excellent!
Glad to help, and to see all is well for you. Now you can enjoy the summer without having to worry about gauges. That fix for the filter to fit snug should last... prolly got messed with long ago. The metal tabs are stiff and not cheap aluminum or thin tin. It should stay as long as nobody pulls it off. |
|
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
|
Post Reply | Page <1234> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |